Bimini Tension

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Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
I had a gust of wind rip the crap out of my bimini. I think the thread was not UV or possibly just old. I just had it sewn back together with UV resistant thread
I noticed that most people in the yard have poles to keep their biminis up. Some people have straps on one side or maybe both front and back.
I thought maybe my bimini tore partly because I didn't have the right amount of tension in it and it filled up like a sail and tore. How tight can I pull it? Should I have poles so the frame is fully rigid and independent of the bimini to hold its self up? I just don't want it to rip again because I did something wrong.

I'm in the boat now in the yard. In the morning we put her back in.
 

Manny

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Oct 5, 2006
983
Hunter 82? 37 Cutter Wherever the wind takes me
Maybe this helps

Hermit, Here's a shot from inside the cockpit that shows most of the support of the new bimini I just finished making.
Three sections of tubing support it. I have straps that run from front to the middle supports, two straps from the front tubing to the cabin top, and two straps from the rear tubing to the stern pulpit. I am going to add straps to the middle tubing to the rear tubing soon. (I basically recycled as much as I could from the old bimini, so that's all I had). I keep all the straps tight so the fabric doesn't flop around too much. So far it has withstood 35 knot gusts without a problem but the straps hum at that speed.
I kept the straps tight on the old bimini and never had a problem either.
Most likely yours ripped due to the thread, it generally wears out before the fabric. If you used good uv thread and the fabric is in good shape you should be okay.

Manny
 

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Pat T

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Feb 15, 2009
162
Catalina 36MKII Waukegan, IL
Agree with Manny

Threads fail first. Had this happen on my sail cover and dodger. My bimini held up because I was able to fold that up half the time and keep it out of the sun. Don't think it matters whether or not you have poles or straps although again, as Manny states, straps hum at higher wind speeds.

Looks like you can fold up/roll up your bimini also. Before deciding on poles you might consider whether you can fold them up and out of the way easily. My current set up, poles aft and straps forward allow for this.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
All seams should be double stitched! I just repaired two commercially-made biminis that were single seams, and that was their weakness- especially the zippers.

On my bimini that I made, I have two almost-vertical poles from the rear bow to the stern rail. I have two more, between the front and rear bows, along the sides. Built like monkey bars, I don't need forward straps. The rear bow is strong enough I can hoist my Honda 5 to the dingy buy using a line over the bow, above the v-pole.
 
Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
Ron-Do you have a close up of how your pole ends are connected? Are they slipped in with a set screw or something else?
Pat-unfotunately there are two bows that mount to the boat, It can't be rolled up easily. I have to disconnect one of the bows and bring it to the other one before I can roll it.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Check out sialrite or west marine for pictures

Sailrite sellls pre made frames for biminis and I'd guess that west marine has pictures in their catalogs of how the frames are set up. Personally I eliminated the fabric straps because they are in the way when trying to go forward, require additional anchor points (more holes in the boat) and as noted are noisy. They sell a clamshell that wraps around your pulpit rail, kind of expensive but worth it. Then just a couple short pieces of stright tubing connects the stern pulpit to the rear bow (you need two atachment points for the rear bow also). Set screws hold the tubes in place. Then just run a straight piece of tubing between the two bows to apply tension and also to hold the front bow in position. Picture a completely rigid system so that if you remove the two tubes to the stern rail it will just rotate around the anchor point for the bows. No straps and the way forward is completely clear with nothing to trip over. The horizontal tubes provide a handhold but not a strong one, good to hang towels to dry or many other uses.
I don't have a picture handy but hope you get the mental picture. The end fittings are expensive and get stainless, the zinc ones are terrible and rot quickly in salt water. The set screws seize up in them and are too small to work well (sound like experience talking?). So for your project you need eight end fittings for the tube sections, 6 attachments for the bows and two clamshells for the stern pulpit. So 16 fittings at about 10 bucks each. trust me its worth it.
As for thread, polyester is the standard and lasts 3 to 5 years. Restitching is normal for all canvas and sail suncovers. Also check your sails periodically for need to restich the seams and batten pockets. Goretex thread claims it lasts forever but it costs 80 bucks for 4 ounces of thread, quite outrageous a price and I can resew seams a lot for that much money. If you can afford it get an industrial grade sewing machine, it will pay for itself in one project, I have made biminis, dodgers, storm sails, headsails, spinnaker, mainsail covers, added suncovers to jibs for rolling furling, restitched seams, etc. Get the handcrank for the flywheel and you don't need power to use it. WELL WORTH THE INVESTMENT.
If you have existing canvass that is old it is easy to rip apart the seams, use the pieces as a pattern to make new pieces and then sew a new one together. A dodger will cost you thousands new, making a new one will cost a few hundred using the old one as a pattern.
Maybe the pros will have perfect seams and stitches but I can live with a few crooked threads for the functionality and the savings. I'd guess I've saved around $7,000 minimum for all the projects I've done over the years. Tools and sewing machine cost maybe 1,000.
 

Ariel

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Feb 1, 2006
279
Pearson 36-2 Houston, TX / Rock Hall, MD
Hermit,

Keep the straps tight. Since the cloth is old and the thread is new, I would not make the cloth drum tight though.

Manny,

You can stop the straps from humming by making one turn in the strap.

Dave
s/v Ariel
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Hermit, I don't have any close-ups at present. The fittings are all held together by set screws. I check them for tightness a couple times a year, but they seem to stay tight.... For anyone, you'd have to get the fittings that are hinged so you can put them over the stern rail. On the bows, MAYBE you can slide the less-expensive fittings around the bow corners.... I told myself I'd change the set screws to bolts by drilling and tapping the tube for maybe 1/4 x 28 bolts. I would only do that for the END FITTINGS, not the ones that would be adjustable.... Shop around for thebest price since you can save big. Sailrite has the rear strut package you could use for the side rails also. 4 ends, two tube mounts, two tubes in a good package price.... The tubing is at least 7 bucks a foot, but maybe you can salvage some used bows or such. The tubes do not have to be totally straight to be useable.
 
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