Dale,
Foggycape:
Sorry Mitch for being away for so long. Just lost touch after the old forum. I found your post while performing a google search. Attached is a picture of NORA.
One more point of interest: When folded, the bimini can rest on the cabin or aft, either way it works!!!
The Bimini on that boat looks real sharp! I'd love to have a Bimini on my O'Day 222 but I'd want it mounted more to aft so that I can get to the mast or the bow without trying to get around obstacles. I'm not sure about how a Bimini top would work out if I hook into a fish while trolling a lure. I do a lot of trolling on my boat for Striped Bass and Blue Fish. I guess I can't have my cake and eat it too.
OK, here are pictures after upgrades. Please note autopilot, and rudder, and yes, I made the rudder after the production rudder failed 18 miles out of Charleston Harbor, SC. during a 45 knot blow. That was in 1999, and the rudder is as strong now as it was then. It was the same rudder I used on the Bahamas trip in 2000. I hope this helps…
Splash curtains or splash guards, I think, Anyway bought them from an owner from the old sailnet forum. I only use them on extreme hot or cold days.
I have had more than one person ask me about the ruder. I knew back in 1999 that the Bahamas trip was coming up in 2000. The Charleston trip was a shake down cruse to compile needed upgrades. My word of advise is, don’t let friends at the helm during a 45 knot blow. Ok enough said… After motoring back for the pieces of the rudder ( I knew they would be needed for a pattern), I limped back to Foley Inland. The problem with making your own rudder is not to create any shear points (dows or screws). There is a lot of horizontal stress while under way. You want a rudder that will flex under the worst conditions. Now for the good parts: I took ¼” marine plywood and traced out the old rudder on the first piece. I did this 5 times alternating the direction of the plywood. This was just a rough cut on all pieces. The next step was to sandwich each piece with contact glue (contact glue never dries and flexes under stress). Contact glue comes in two types (explosive and water soluble, used the explosive type, make sure the work area is well vented), and you want the glue ooze out when pressed. I used my car, with 2x4’s, just drove up in the rudder and left it overnight. The next day took a wood rasp bit mounted on an electric drill and started working the rudder down for the feathered edges. I had my rudder after five layers of fiberglass. I debated for days should I include gel cote color. My answer was no. The fiberglass is a window to the wood and any failures are easily repaired. One last note here: The rudder is only in the water when I’m onboard.
Just a reminder: Each strap has a spring mounted hook which makes it easy to detach. I usually only hook one if having to move around the deck or docking. Takes less than a second to drop.The Bimini on that boat looks real sharp! I'd love to have a Bimini on my O'Day 222 but I'd want it mounted more to aft so that I can get to the mast or the bow without trying to get around obstacles. I'm not sure about how a Bimini top would work out if I hook into a fish while trolling a lure. I do a lot of trolling on my boat for Striped Bass and Blue Fish. I guess I can't have my cake and eat it too.
Joe
Just in case some of you are wondering what NORA looks like on the inside…
No, as a production boat there are weak points that should not be pushed. After all when sailing it's not about speed. Usually try to keep her at a 10' to 15' heel. The crew seems to like it too. All I do is check the bolts and tighten down when needed.