I want to design and fabricate my own bimini for my 28.5. I would like to know if anyone with this boat has a bimini. The split back stays are only 10 inches from the end of the boom so to make an effective bimini, one will have to let it travel under the back end of the boom (Reefing may be a problem). In any case, there are 2 key dimensions I am after. How much space should be left between the front edge of the bimini to the mainsheet and how far aft past the back stays should it extend. Finally, how does one handle the fact that the back stays will essentially go through the middle of the bimini (use a zipper and seam it along the line of the stays or use oversized grommets removing the back stays for installtion and passing them through)? Any help would be appreciated. Allen
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Joe D
Did it on an H-27
I finally installed a bimini on my 1980 H-27. Sailrite (www.sailrite.com) sells pre made biminis with either stainless steel or aluminum frames and in various sizes and colors. It cost me $465 plus shipping. The catalog gives diminsions and boat measuring instructions. I bought the four bow stainless with sunbrella canvas. It's comes with all hardware to install and measures 61 to 67 inches wide, 56 inches high and 86 inches long.You'll probably need the same one. They are easy to assemble on a dock but it is a two person job to assemble and to install. My boat has a split backstay too so, here's how I did it: 1) build the frame with the canvas dockside. 2) Measure the level triangle distance from boom end to each backstay and the distance between the stays. 3) remove backstays at their base ( use the main halyard as substitute support by attaching it to stern rail.) Swing boom out of the way and position the bimini in the the best postion in the cockpit.It will most likely be too tall so you will have to determine how much tube you'll have to cut from the mounting frame in order to lower the hight so it will fit under the boom and still be high enough to allow you to stand at the helm. On my boat I had to remove 18 inches. It's better to make smaller cuts a couple of time than to remove too much. You might have to drill out the rivits on the bow jaw slides in order to get the best positions for the bows. If you use proper size drill bit, you'll be pleased to find that the jaw slides have 1/4 20 threads where the rivits are. You can adjust the jaws using the same size set screws. 3) Once the frame hight is correct, return bimini to cockpit with base mounts attached and mark the best spot to install the base mounts. (On my boat, this was at the jib cleats.) Follow the sailrite instructions for this. 4) after you attach the base mounts, open the bimini completely, make sure boom clears it and it opens and closes freely. Also make sure the canvas in centered on the frame. 5) Now, transfer the backstay measurements from boom end to the bimini top and mark the spots with tape. This will be the point where the backstays will pass through the bimini. Double check all measurements and bimini alignment for centering. 6) with bimini on the dock, carefully cut X's in canvas where the tape is and cut tabs in canvas so that when folded back you will have a circular opening approximately 3 inches in diameter. 7) Next, using wipping twine. sew in a ring of 1/4 inch plastic tubing formed in a circle the same size as the openings. This will serve as a gromet at the openings. 8) Using wipping twine, stich on leather strips around the plastic tubing to dress off the openings and to serve as chafe guards.The leather strips should be about 3in. wide and 12 in. long. Trim off excess. 9) Install bimni and run backstays through the circular openings. Attach backstays. 10) open bimini and install canvas straps and and strap eyes. All together, it took us about 5 hours. It should go faster for you if you follow these steps. It's a little work but you'll save about $700. Every loves it and believes it to be a custom job. Let me know how it goes.
I finally installed a bimini on my 1980 H-27. Sailrite (www.sailrite.com) sells pre made biminis with either stainless steel or aluminum frames and in various sizes and colors. It cost me $465 plus shipping. The catalog gives diminsions and boat measuring instructions. I bought the four bow stainless with sunbrella canvas. It's comes with all hardware to install and measures 61 to 67 inches wide, 56 inches high and 86 inches long.You'll probably need the same one. They are easy to assemble on a dock but it is a two person job to assemble and to install. My boat has a split backstay too so, here's how I did it: 1) build the frame with the canvas dockside. 2) Measure the level triangle distance from boom end to each backstay and the distance between the stays. 3) remove backstays at their base ( use the main halyard as substitute support by attaching it to stern rail.) Swing boom out of the way and position the bimini in the the best postion in the cockpit.It will most likely be too tall so you will have to determine how much tube you'll have to cut from the mounting frame in order to lower the hight so it will fit under the boom and still be high enough to allow you to stand at the helm. On my boat I had to remove 18 inches. It's better to make smaller cuts a couple of time than to remove too much. You might have to drill out the rivits on the bow jaw slides in order to get the best positions for the bows. If you use proper size drill bit, you'll be pleased to find that the jaw slides have 1/4 20 threads where the rivits are. You can adjust the jaws using the same size set screws. 3) Once the frame hight is correct, return bimini to cockpit with base mounts attached and mark the best spot to install the base mounts. (On my boat, this was at the jib cleats.) Follow the sailrite instructions for this. 4) after you attach the base mounts, open the bimini completely, make sure boom clears it and it opens and closes freely. Also make sure the canvas in centered on the frame. 5) Now, transfer the backstay measurements from boom end to the bimini top and mark the spots with tape. This will be the point where the backstays will pass through the bimini. Double check all measurements and bimini alignment for centering. 6) with bimini on the dock, carefully cut X's in canvas where the tape is and cut tabs in canvas so that when folded back you will have a circular opening approximately 3 inches in diameter. 7) Next, using wipping twine. sew in a ring of 1/4 inch plastic tubing formed in a circle the same size as the openings. This will serve as a gromet at the openings. 8) Using wipping twine, stich on leather strips around the plastic tubing to dress off the openings and to serve as chafe guards.The leather strips should be about 3in. wide and 12 in. long. Trim off excess. 9) Install bimni and run backstays through the circular openings. Attach backstays. 10) open bimini and install canvas straps and and strap eyes. All together, it took us about 5 hours. It should go faster for you if you follow these steps. It's a little work but you'll save about $700. Every loves it and believes it to be a custom job. Let me know how it goes.
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Marc Honey
Lotta work
Geeze, local canvas guy will install brand new bimini on my 28.5 for about $450 !!! Of course I already have the framework in place. I'll be glad to send pictures if you'll send me an address as well as measurements. It's no big deal... zippers run from the split stays outboard. Yes, reefing is a problem w/bimini in place, but thats a small price to pay. You definitely want a window installed above the helm position so you can see your sail shape. E-mail me an address and I'll send pictures and measurements....mhoney1@compuserve.com...You'll love your bimini and use your boat alot more once you get one!!!
Geeze, local canvas guy will install brand new bimini on my 28.5 for about $450 !!! Of course I already have the framework in place. I'll be glad to send pictures if you'll send me an address as well as measurements. It's no big deal... zippers run from the split stays outboard. Yes, reefing is a problem w/bimini in place, but thats a small price to pay. You definitely want a window installed above the helm position so you can see your sail shape. E-mail me an address and I'll send pictures and measurements....mhoney1@compuserve.com...You'll love your bimini and use your boat alot more once you get one!!!
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Allen
I Got The Tools!
Being from Canada, mail order is a real pain having to deal with customs and shipping. In any case, having my own machine shop, stainless steel tubing, and an industrial sewing machine, I love to get into projects over my head. The information you supplied Joe will be quite useful and I thank you for the extensive details. Marc, if you have a scanner, then those pictures would come in real handy. Please feel free to forward anything on to me at arlewis@paperless.com. I particularly am interested in the zipper along the back stays and what you did inbetween them (a third zipper?) Thanks for all your help.
Being from Canada, mail order is a real pain having to deal with customs and shipping. In any case, having my own machine shop, stainless steel tubing, and an industrial sewing machine, I love to get into projects over my head. The information you supplied Joe will be quite useful and I thank you for the extensive details. Marc, if you have a scanner, then those pictures would come in real handy. Please feel free to forward anything on to me at arlewis@paperless.com. I particularly am interested in the zipper along the back stays and what you did inbetween them (a third zipper?) Thanks for all your help.
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Ernie Scott
Bimini is nice - but makes things tight.
Just had the bimini redone on my '85 28.5 at a cost of $450 (used the old frame). The backstay opening is a cutout with zippers leading outboard. The forward edge of the bimini ends about 8" from the mainsheet - if I were to do it over I'd have had the canvas shop make use of that missing 8". The aft edge of the top ends in line with the sternrail. The bimini frame is a 3-bow model although I've seen them (slightly larger) using 4 bows. As to a window so you can check sail trim: the window is nice but having a window with a flap and requisite velcro is an continual maintenance problem. I check sail trim by peering through the cutout around the backstays or craning my neck one way or the other (it works OK). I don't have any trouble reefing (Kenyon boom) although there is a little stretch involved in getting the sailcover on or off. Also, I'm 6'3", the top cramps me when I have it in use and prevents me from standing at the helm comfortably even when I have it rolled up (the bows lie against the backstays right where my head needs to be). However, having just done a 3 week cruise in the summer heat, I wouldn't go without it - it definitely expands use of the boat through all sorts of weather. I had my top made by Cnavas Connection in Cocoa Beach, FL. Their phone is (407)779-4400 and I believe they have a template for the 28.5. Good luck!
Just had the bimini redone on my '85 28.5 at a cost of $450 (used the old frame). The backstay opening is a cutout with zippers leading outboard. The forward edge of the bimini ends about 8" from the mainsheet - if I were to do it over I'd have had the canvas shop make use of that missing 8". The aft edge of the top ends in line with the sternrail. The bimini frame is a 3-bow model although I've seen them (slightly larger) using 4 bows. As to a window so you can check sail trim: the window is nice but having a window with a flap and requisite velcro is an continual maintenance problem. I check sail trim by peering through the cutout around the backstays or craning my neck one way or the other (it works OK). I don't have any trouble reefing (Kenyon boom) although there is a little stretch involved in getting the sailcover on or off. Also, I'm 6'3", the top cramps me when I have it in use and prevents me from standing at the helm comfortably even when I have it rolled up (the bows lie against the backstays right where my head needs to be). However, having just done a 3 week cruise in the summer heat, I wouldn't go without it - it definitely expands use of the boat through all sorts of weather. I had my top made by Cnavas Connection in Cocoa Beach, FL. Their phone is (407)779-4400 and I believe they have a template for the 28.5. Good luck!
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Allen
8 inches
Hi Ernie, When you say you would close up the 8" gap, do you mean you would have made it closer or that you would have an additional flap when the mainsheet is swung out of the way? Allen
Hi Ernie, When you say you would close up the 8" gap, do you mean you would have made it closer or that you would have an additional flap when the mainsheet is swung out of the way? Allen
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Joe D
Question for Allen
I have not been able to read Allen's response entitled"I got the tools". An article called "Insuranse vs. Sales" comes up . Could Allen's response be resubmitted? Thanks.
I have not been able to read Allen's response entitled"I got the tools". An article called "Insuranse vs. Sales" comes up . Could Allen's response be resubmitted? Thanks.
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Allen
Hi Joe
And here I thought it was just my quirky computer! I checked out sailrite and you were right, life would be simple if I just ordered it from them. However, I am in Canada and have found between the exchange rate and customs, bringing stuff in for me from the states ends up being very expensive. In any case, I have my own machine shop, stainless tubing, industrial sewing machine, and a line on a stocking sunbrella distributor. Besides, I like getting into projects like this. I particularly like your suggestion on the anti-chaffe grommets for the back stays and will use them. My problem with the 28.5 is that the boom is very low and it is that dimension I would like to know because it would be nice to be able to stand up at the helm when the bimini is in place. Thanks again for your help, it will come in handy! Allen
And here I thought it was just my quirky computer! I checked out sailrite and you were right, life would be simple if I just ordered it from them. However, I am in Canada and have found between the exchange rate and customs, bringing stuff in for me from the states ends up being very expensive. In any case, I have my own machine shop, stainless tubing, industrial sewing machine, and a line on a stocking sunbrella distributor. Besides, I like getting into projects like this. I particularly like your suggestion on the anti-chaffe grommets for the back stays and will use them. My problem with the 28.5 is that the boom is very low and it is that dimension I would like to know because it would be nice to be able to stand up at the helm when the bimini is in place. Thanks again for your help, it will come in handy! Allen
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Ernie Scott
Reply to Allen
No, I'd have just extended it forward right up to the mainsheet lines. That would give a little extra coverage. I couldnt figure out how to provide a flap (like maybe to connect to a dodger). It would be nice to have full cockpit coverage...
No, I'd have just extended it forward right up to the mainsheet lines. That would give a little extra coverage. I couldnt figure out how to provide a flap (like maybe to connect to a dodger). It would be nice to have full cockpit coverage...
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