It doesn't appear that those cracks have been properly repaired. It looks to me like they are wide enough to have broken through not only the gelcoat but also the glass layers beneath. They should have been aggressively ground out and filled with glass mat and cloth. Simply filling the cracks with resin will not last. As far as repairing cracks inside the trunk, are they leaking water into the boat? If so, you will probably have to remove the centerboard then cut the trunk down the front and back and along the bottom on one side. Repair the cracks then glass the part back in place. Fiberglass layup doesn't just crack. There was a serious grounding somewhere in the past.
bilge water oday 28
- Thread starter blackout
- Start date
Today's update...
There is about a 4" crack at the top aft of the keel. Went under water and could see it. We plan to put her back on the trailer and fill. This is an encapsulated lead keel. Next question is how to make a solid repair. Should we sand off well and lay some fiberglass around it to strengthen?
There is about a 4" crack at the top aft of the keel. Went under water and could see it. We plan to put her back on the trailer and fill. This is an encapsulated lead keel. Next question is how to make a solid repair. Should we sand off well and lay some fiberglass around it to strengthen?
I've done a lot of fiberglass work over the years but that would scare me. If the crack does go all the way through I would grind down on both sides at least 1/2 inch, leaving a rough surface and with a margin all around the crack of at least 6 inches. When laying up, use epoxy resin because it gives the strongest mechanical bond. Use non-blushing resin. Alternate layers of cloth and random strand mat and don't let it fully cure until the layup is complete so the layers will have a chemical bond. They now make material for layup with combinations of weaving on one cloth and maybe you should talk to an expert at one of the manufacturers. As you build up the layers make them gradually wider. You want a thick layup spread over a wide area. That really heavy keel will continue to try to widen the crack so you need a strong repair. Some people may tell you to completely grind out the crack and that may not be a bad idea.
Wing,
Thanks for the info. I wish you were close by. We would hire you. We spoke to a guy this week on the repair. Price is 150 an hour and will include drying time hours since we are asking him to come to us so we don't have to trailer again. Probably going to have to cut the bilge up to make the repair on both sides. This is probably going to cost us more than the boats worth...ugh.
Thanks for the info. I wish you were close by. We would hire you. We spoke to a guy this week on the repair. Price is 150 an hour and will include drying time hours since we are asking him to come to us so we don't have to trailer again. Probably going to have to cut the bilge up to make the repair on both sides. This is probably going to cost us more than the boats worth...ugh.
I have a 1981 O’Day 28 and also had water coming through the starboard cabin light over the settee. I discovered the cabin top teak hand rail bedding had failed. When I removed the rail and covered the holes with Gorilla duct tape I had no more leak. Be careful if you remove yours as mine had a slight crack and broke in half when removed. The new one, if I remember correctly, was about $250 with shipping. I have a friend with the same boat 3 slips away and he has one of those inboard mounted outboard drives. His bilge is dry as a bone so I think my bilge water must be related to my diesel inboard installation. I’ve learned to live with it as there’s never enough water to trigger the bilge pump float switch.