I put in a second electric bilge pump recently. I only had one pump, a Rule
800 of uncertain age, and I wanted some backup besides a bucket. I figured
the most likely scenario where a pump would be necessary would be taking on
water while sailing. If I spring a leak on the mooring the boat will sink
even as soon as the batteries run down, so there's not much I can do about
that common scenario besides attention to hoses etc.
I glued two 5 inch cleats on either side of the bilge sump and screwed a
board across. I mounted the old Rule 800 and float switch on the board. Now
I can see and inspect the upper pump and switch easily. This pump will run
only in an emergency so I can count on it being unclogged when the time
comes. Also I can clear it easily. The pump is about ten inches below the
top of the batteries. Then I mounted a new Rule 1100 at the bottom of the
sump. It's on its own elec circuit. It is plumbed to 1 1/8 I.D. sanitary
hose and exhausts out a fitting at the upper port corner of the transom.
It's a nice straight run and the pump should really move water, especially
with the engine running. The pump is one of the new ones w/o a float switch
- it runs momentarily every ten minutes and stays on if it senses a load. I
heard that these had given some trouble but were now said to be perfected.
I like not having to worry about a float switch getting jammed up in the
murkey depths of the bilge. It uses .25 amp hours per day not including
actual pumping. I have two new 105 amp hour batteries so this drain is ok.
Cost: $60.00 pump, $19.00 13' hose (1/2 price; usually $3.00 per foot),
switch $8.00. There are cheaper hoses but the sanitary hose was recommended
and was clearly the least likely to kink.
This 2 pump arrangement has lots of capacity and is a clean, inspectable
layout.
800 of uncertain age, and I wanted some backup besides a bucket. I figured
the most likely scenario where a pump would be necessary would be taking on
water while sailing. If I spring a leak on the mooring the boat will sink
even as soon as the batteries run down, so there's not much I can do about
that common scenario besides attention to hoses etc.
I glued two 5 inch cleats on either side of the bilge sump and screwed a
board across. I mounted the old Rule 800 and float switch on the board. Now
I can see and inspect the upper pump and switch easily. This pump will run
only in an emergency so I can count on it being unclogged when the time
comes. Also I can clear it easily. The pump is about ten inches below the
top of the batteries. Then I mounted a new Rule 1100 at the bottom of the
sump. It's on its own elec circuit. It is plumbed to 1 1/8 I.D. sanitary
hose and exhausts out a fitting at the upper port corner of the transom.
It's a nice straight run and the pump should really move water, especially
with the engine running. The pump is one of the new ones w/o a float switch
- it runs momentarily every ten minutes and stays on if it senses a load. I
heard that these had given some trouble but were now said to be perfected.
I like not having to worry about a float switch getting jammed up in the
murkey depths of the bilge. It uses .25 amp hours per day not including
actual pumping. I have two new 105 amp hour batteries so this drain is ok.
Cost: $60.00 pump, $19.00 13' hose (1/2 price; usually $3.00 per foot),
switch $8.00. There are cheaper hoses but the sanitary hose was recommended
and was clearly the least likely to kink.
This 2 pump arrangement has lots of capacity and is a clean, inspectable
layout.