Bilge pumps

Ken · Jun 1, 2012

Hole saw works well... remember to make sure that hole is where you want it before you drill.....

Chris Patterson · Jun 2, 2012

A very simple, and reliable electric pump is a Rule, along with a float switch that makes it automatic in your absence. Cheap too.
And, a plastic thru hull makes for a nice installation. It's going to be above the water line, (ideally right under the rub rail), so plastic should be fine.
I would also recommend the hole saw as well, running it in reverse until it starts through the gel coat, working slowly produces nice cuts. Doing it through masking tape is another "neat" tip. A spade bit, unless you get lucky, is likely to net you a disappointing job.

toddco · Jun 2, 2012

Straycat,
I would suggest drilling a small pilot hole smaller than the center bit of the hole saw from the inside of the hull, then drilling from the outside. The masking tape sounds like an excellent idea too.

watercolors II · Jun 2, 2012

If you’re putting an electric pump under the sink on the second generation of Catalina’s hull then I would just T it into the sink drain at the top of the keel trunk directly above your pump.

If you’re installing a manual pump then place it in the front of the port cockpit bench where the helmsmen can steer the boat and operate the pump with the other hand. I have a factory installed manual pump on my ‘87, see photo attached.

jfrench · Jun 3, 2012

Yes, the sink drain is the place to put it because you don't have to cut holes in your boat. But run the pump hose upward and hook it in high off the floor into the sink drain. That creates a reverse "trap" that makes it harder for water to come up the drain and onto the floor of your boat. It's unlikely that would happen, but why make it easy to happen? It's also smart to use a 45 degree joint rather than a true "T" fitting. The 45 degree aims the high pressure exhaust from the pump down toward the drain exit, making it harder to shoot back up into the sink. The "T" is more likely to divide the pump exhaust and shoot some up the drain. Wouldn't that suck if you were brushing your teeth when the pump came on?

Chester · Jun 5, 2012

I've recently been gifted an '84 Catalina 22 and I was thinking about installing a bilge pump in it as well. I haven't inspected it yet, but I read in the manual that the galley drain is below the waterline. We were planning to leave the galley unit out so we'd have more space in the cabin. Would it be alright to use the galley's throughhull for a Rule automatic pump even if the throughhull is below the waterline?

Oh, and "First sailboat! Yay!" \o/

Chris Patterson · Jun 5, 2012

The pump will work fine plumbing it this way. You need to put a loop in the discharge line high in the coaming, to prevent water possibly entering through it. I tie-wrapped mine up to an existing bolt from a piece of deck hardware, probably the winch bolts. However.....
I kind of have a problem with that discharge arrangement. The sink drain/cockpit drain, and the keel cable hose is your most likely cause of failure causing water to enter the boat. In a pinch, while you are trying to solve the situation, ie: stop the water, the bilge pump could be pumping water into the very situation that you're trying to repair. For instance, if the valve at the thru hull fails catastrophically, ideally you would be trying to bung the hole with your tapered cones, (I know you have them, everybody should), and then your pump is pumping, well, right back into the boat. It will not drain that well.
That said, it is a neat, and simple way to do it. But a plastic thru hull, mounted high on the hull is my preferred way. And it too is very easy to install.
Dedicated.

Oh yeah, big time congrats on your first boat. You chose wisely Grasshopper..

CaptGregg · Jun 6, 2012

Chester said:
I've recently been gifted an '84 Catalina 22 and I was thinking about installing a bilge pump in it as well. I haven't inspected it yet, but I read in the manual that the galley drain is below the waterline. We were planning to leave the galley unit out so we'd have more space in the cabin. Would it be alright to use the galley's throughhull for a Rule automatic pump even if the throughhull is below the waterline?

Oh, and "First sailboat! Yay!" \o/

You were gifted a sailboat? Can you introduce me to your friends and family? :dance:

CaptGregg · Jun 6, 2012

Hey Chris,

Now I feel stupid, where can I get tapered bungs, I've been told just to keep rags on board, that it would be sufficient to stop leaks (like in the volcano) which I find really hard to believe but not impossible (slow them down enough to keep on top of pumping out until you can reach port).

Chris Patterson said:
The pump will work fine plumbing it this way. You need to put a loop in the discharge line high in the coaming, to prevent water possibly entering through it. I tie-wrapped mine up to an existing bolt from a piece of deck hardware, probably the winch bolts. However.....
I kind of have a problem with that discharge arrangement. The sink drain/cockpit drain, and the keel cable hose is your most likely cause of failure causing water to enter the boat. In a pinch, while you are trying to solve the situation, ie: stop the water, the bilge pump could be pumping water into the very situation that you're trying to repair. For instance, if the valve at the thru hull fails catastrophically, ideally you would be trying to bung the hole with your tapered cones, (I know you have them, everybody should), and then your pump is pumping, well, right back into the boat. It will not drain that well.
That said, it is a neat, and simple way to do it. But a plastic thru hull, mounted high on the hull is my preferred way. And it too is very easy to install.
Dedicated.

Oh yeah, big time congrats on your first boat. You chose wisely Grasshopper..

Chester · Jun 6, 2012

Sounds good, and thanks for the advice. I think we'll go with using the galley drain for this season and look at installing a plastic one above the waterline in the fall. I think the wife is likely to kill me if we don't get the boat in the water this weekend!

Ken · Jun 6, 2012

Been watching this thread.... You of course know none of the holds drain to each other right? Liner would have to be fully under water before that happened. May be time to think of limber holes?

allen-deckard · Jun 6, 2012

CaptGregg said:
Hey Chris,

Now I feel stupid, where can I get tapered bungs, I've been told just to keep rags on board, that it would be sufficient to stop leaks (like in the volcano) which I find really hard to believe but not impossible (slow them down enough to keep on top of pumping out until you can reach port).

Look in the latitudes and attudes stuff they sell i got a tappered bung from them i keep on board cheep thing to keep around it's basically kind of like a nerf football material wise.

Chris Patterson · Jun 6, 2012

Mm hmm. Fairly popular things, and required equipment for offshore racers. The traditional ones were made of wood, but the new synthetics are nice. And probably more efficient. They should be taped loosely next to all trough hulls. In an emergency, as they all are, remembering where you stored it may be a challenge. Gregg, I think "The Evil Empire" sells them, Defender, etc. Cheap insurance man..
And yes, the lack of limbers has always distressed me. Go figure. Frank and the gang build some great boats, but that's another oddity that has always evaded me.

slowtype · Jun 7, 2012

I'm in the process of installing an automatic bilge pump as well. At first I was going to t into the manual bilge pump line, than I decided I was going to t into the sink drain. But now I am leaning towards a dedicated through hull fitting.

The only thing I have decided on is that I want to install it before this weekend.

If I go with a through hull in the stern way above the water line do I need a backing plate.

Chris Patterson · Jun 7, 2012

Not really. It wouldn't hurt, but ideally it's just a plastic thru hull, above the water line, with a very light weight hose attached to it. No job could be any simpler..

jfrench · Jun 7, 2012

Slowtype, remember, if you first try it in either the manual line or the sink line, you can always cut a hole in the boat later if neither of those are satisfactory. But it doesn't work the other way 'round.

Chris Patterson · Jun 7, 2012

That is very sound advice Mr. French. Hard to uncut a hole..

slowtype · Jun 9, 2012

I did it anyway. Put a 1" hole in the upper port side of the stern. No backing plate, and enough 3M 4000 to seal it up.

Any recommendations on bilge pump switch location?

Bilge pumps

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