I often read on this forum about the bilge pump on hte 260 located under the rear berth. It would appear to me that the only way water can get to the pump is that if water was in the cabin it would need to be deep enough to flow over the height of the rear berth floor and spill down into the area below the rear bunk. Any thoughts?
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I agree
this bilge pump is worthless or almost worthless. I did place my depth transducer and hull valve for the AC there. I would like to see something under the vineer deck to help support it, mine flexes when you step off the last step (ballast valve locker)
this bilge pump is worthless or almost worthless. I did place my depth transducer and hull valve for the AC there. I would like to see something under the vineer deck to help support it, mine flexes when you step off the last step (ballast valve locker)
Not exactly worthless.
That area under the rear berth, is one of the lowest places on the boat as it is behind and below the ballast tank. Water getting on top of the tank would eventually wind up there including from a ballast tank leak itself. A second pump placed foward of the bunk on the sole and encased may be a solution. I would not drill weep holes through the sole as that water would wind up on top of the ballast tank and take months to dry out. I agree that leaks in certain areas would tend to flow onto the cabin sole resulting in a large amount of water in the boat before it could get to the current pump. alan
That area under the rear berth, is one of the lowest places on the boat as it is behind and below the ballast tank. Water getting on top of the tank would eventually wind up there including from a ballast tank leak itself. A second pump placed foward of the bunk on the sole and encased may be a solution. I would not drill weep holes through the sole as that water would wind up on top of the ballast tank and take months to dry out. I agree that leaks in certain areas would tend to flow onto the cabin sole resulting in a large amount of water in the boat before it could get to the current pump. alan
The real Problem
The real problem, it seems to me is the water that can come from the compression post support area into the space above the ballast tank and under the cabin sole. I was getting lots of water from the keel trunk up through the retract cable line and out the plate on top of the tower. There seems to be no way to easily get at the space under the cabin sole. If you look forward under the aft bunk floor, in the bilge area you can see a ridge between the two areas. It is possible to run a tube over that ridge and possibly attach a pump of sorts, but what would trigger it to come on? It would have to be run manually.
The real problem, it seems to me is the water that can come from the compression post support area into the space above the ballast tank and under the cabin sole. I was getting lots of water from the keel trunk up through the retract cable line and out the plate on top of the tower. There seems to be no way to easily get at the space under the cabin sole. If you look forward under the aft bunk floor, in the bilge area you can see a ridge between the two areas. It is possible to run a tube over that ridge and possibly attach a pump of sorts, but what would trigger it to come on? It would have to be run manually.
Brigg, that ridge near the rear of the...
...ballast tank is why it takes so long for any water on top of the tank to dry out. Those of us who have had water there can tell you more fortunate guys that it will flow to the areas under the sinks when heeling. I doubt enough water accumulates on top of the tank to make a pump practical there. Perhaps shoving towels through an inspection hatch would work. I just leave the bilge hatches and step on the companion way open for a few months. alan
...ballast tank is why it takes so long for any water on top of the tank to dry out. Those of us who have had water there can tell you more fortunate guys that it will flow to the areas under the sinks when heeling. I doubt enough water accumulates on top of the tank to make a pump practical there. Perhaps shoving towels through an inspection hatch would work. I just leave the bilge hatches and step on the companion way open for a few months. alan
Path to the bilge
Why Hunter didn't create a path from cabin sole to the bilge area for the water to flow is beyond me. You shouldn't have to deal with a flooded cabin and wet aft berth before your bilge kicks on. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
Why Hunter didn't create a path from cabin sole to the bilge area for the water to flow is beyond me. You shouldn't have to deal with a flooded cabin and wet aft berth before your bilge kicks on. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
Yes
I am not sure how much work would have to be done to cut a channel through to the bilge area from the cabin sole. Any thoughts on this Crazy?
I am not sure how much work would have to be done to cut a channel through to the bilge area from the cabin sole. Any thoughts on this Crazy?
Recent experience
We had vandals hit our area and they forced opened a bunch of boats (including ours...) I can attest that the bilge pump was worthless. We then got a ton of rain over 4 days and ended up with 3-4 inches of water in the cabin of my H-26. I can't imagine how bad it would have had to have been in order for the bilge pump to kick in. As it was I spent an hour bailing with a bucket and a sponge. The channel idea is fantastic - wonder how feasible it is. Dave Crowley H26 - Wind Dreamer
We had vandals hit our area and they forced opened a bunch of boats (including ours...) I can attest that the bilge pump was worthless. We then got a ton of rain over 4 days and ended up with 3-4 inches of water in the cabin of my H-26. I can't imagine how bad it would have had to have been in order for the bilge pump to kick in. As it was I spent an hour bailing with a bucket and a sponge. The channel idea is fantastic - wonder how feasible it is. Dave Crowley H26 - Wind Dreamer
Small one-way valve needed.
I should think it would be fairly simple to make a small hole that a one way valve could be fitted into and sealed. it should probably be at the back of the cabin floor and fitted with a short hose to drain into the bilge area. Some sort of anti siphon valve that could be screwed onto a short piece of garden hose. Let's see, I think that will be project number 137 on my list. Brigg
I should think it would be fairly simple to make a small hole that a one way valve could be fitted into and sealed. it should probably be at the back of the cabin floor and fitted with a short hose to drain into the bilge area. Some sort of anti siphon valve that could be screwed onto a short piece of garden hose. Let's see, I think that will be project number 137 on my list. Brigg
Why the valve?
Why have the one way valve? To me that's just something that could jam or at minimum restrict flow. I believe the cabin floor is higher than the bilge, so there should be no problem. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
Why have the one way valve? To me that's just something that could jam or at minimum restrict flow. I believe the cabin floor is higher than the bilge, so there should be no problem. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
You guys talking about something like...
...a through-hull fitting placed on the aft most portion of the sole and leading it into the bilge? If it's sealed and tubing placed into the lowest portion of the bilge would probably work well. alan
...a through-hull fitting placed on the aft most portion of the sole and leading it into the bilge? If it's sealed and tubing placed into the lowest portion of the bilge would probably work well. alan
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