Yesterday, the bilge pump on my 2002 Hunter 356 wouldn't turn off. The indicator light on the switch panel remains lit (whether or not the 12vdc power is on) and the pump runs. I checked the float switch and it appears to work o.k. Cutting out the float switch didn't do anything and the pump keeps running. My guess is that the fault is with the momentary contact bilge pump switch on the switch panel or some kind of short in the wiring. The only way I could get the pump to stop was by cutting the brown wire coming from the pump (the other is black). Anyone have any ideas about what is going on and what I can do to fix the situation?
Bilge pump won't turn off
- Thread starter jg26
- Start date
2 possibilities: The float switch is actually internally stuck (you wouldn't know unless you put a meter on it and check resistance) or power is coming from someplace it shouldn't. I'd put my money on the float switch.
I also feel that anyone who owns a boat should have a multimeter and learn to use it. It can help you get to the cause of most electrical problems and save you lots of money if you have been paying someone to do it for you. With a little learning you can take care of things when you are a long way from help. I've seen digital multimeters for as low as $3. Example: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-69096.html don't confuse these cheap ones with the bulletproof designs like you would find in a Fluke meter, but they do work.
Ken
I also feel that anyone who owns a boat should have a multimeter and learn to use it. It can help you get to the cause of most electrical problems and save you lots of money if you have been paying someone to do it for you. With a little learning you can take care of things when you are a long way from help. I've seen digital multimeters for as low as $3. Example: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-69096.html don't confuse these cheap ones with the bulletproof designs like you would find in a Fluke meter, but they do work.
Ken
Search "Rule bilge pump float switch wiring".
On page 4 you will see the three reasons why your pump won't shut off.
On page 4 you will see the three reasons why your pump won't shut off.
I don't, but many people hardwire their bilge pump to the batteries by-passing the 12V electrical panel. Something about being able to shut the 12V power off while keeping the bilge pump powered so it can prevent the boat from sinking while it is unattended. It seems like your float switch may be fouled (most common) or something is not wired correctly. If you are using a remote panel switch to operate the pump in automatic or manual then your pump should have three wires, white/brown, black and brown. If your pump is running continuously then the white/brown wire and the brown wire may have come in contact or the panel switch is bad. Trace and check all connections. The facts are that a hard wired bilge pump can actually do very little to keep a boat afloat but a runaway pump can kill a battery bank in short order. It all depends on personal circumstances but if I wanted some protection at the dock I would install a 120V sump pump instead of relying on the battery charger to keep the convenience 12V pump running.
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