Bilge pump wiring diagram

[Gary Kunkel]

I just replaced the original AC/DC distribution panel on my 1988 Catalina 30 with a very nice new panel made by Seaward Products. I notice that the new panel has a breaker for a bilge pump below which is a rocker switch labeled Auto or Manual with a central position I assume is Off. Since my old panel did not involve my bilge pump, I left the pump wired "as it was" which means direct to the battery and always on with no involvement of the panel whatsoever.I've looked on the web to find the purpose of having a panel switch for the bilge pump. It seems that some like to wire the float switch through the panel so that it can be left on Auto, or made to operate the pump by placing the rocker in the Manual position. My question is whether wiring it that way means that it would be possible to leave either the panel mounted breaker or the panel's rocker switch in the Off position thereby negating the advantage of having the pump "always powered and ready to run if necessary."I've seen Don Casey's diagram at http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/14.htm but it still looks as though this configuration would allow me to turn my float switch OFF, something I don't want to be able to do. What am I missing? I've searched the archives, but did not find a clear explanation or wiring diagram. Anyone know where I can find a clear diagram of how to properly wire my bilge float switch through the Manual/Off/Auto switch on the panel without giving up the "always on" feature of its being wired directly to the battery?The easy thing would be to leave my configuration as is and just not use the panel breaker and three-way rocker switch. However, since it's included in this modern-day panel, there must be a valid way to utilize the configuration.Regards,Gary KunkelCatalina 30 "Folie a Deux"Channel Islands Harbor, CA

 

[Ken Juul]

Bilge Pumps

Mine are wired so that either the float switch or the panel switch will activate the pumps. The float is a direct feed from the batteries, the switch from the DC bus. Float is there for emergency, the switch for manual use of the pumps when your draining your water system or doing other maintenance that will allow water into the bilge. I don't have the auto position, but it sounds like it is just a constant hot. Since the pumps are all ready wired, I don't think I would change the set up, the auto position is one more link in the chain that could fail.

 

[Paul17514]

Bilge pump

The purpose of having the auto/off/manual switch is to give you the option to operate your pump anytime you feel the need. The manual position will override the float switch and immediately turn the pump on, even if the bilge is dry.I use the manual position when there is water in the bilge I want to pump out but is not deep enough to activate the float switch.The off switch will kill power to the pump. could be used if your float switch was stuck on and your pump was continuing to run even though there was no water in the bilge. It may save your batteries until you can troubleshoot the stuck float.The auto position just means it is providing power to your float switch and should the water rise in the bilge it will activate your float. If you would like specific wiring diagram let me know and I will draw something up.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Bilge Pump Wiring

GaryAs noted, off is really off. I went and checked yesterday on our boat to confirm that: when off, the float switch will NOT run the pump. Manual is usually spring loaded. Auto lets the float switch work.For wiring diagrams in addition to Casey, try Calder's and the Rule website. The back of all Rule pumps and switches have the wiring diagrams. Try going into WM and reading the back of the packages.I had a float switch and added a Rule three way switch. I find it is convenient to use, rather than putting my hand in the bilge to run the pump by propping up the float switch.You just have to remember to put the switch back in auto when you are finished.If, however, you need to leave your battery switch ON to activate the panel bilge pump switch, that doesn't sound right, since you would want to leave the boat with your battery switches off. So, you should check to see if the panel mounted bilge pump switch is wired independently of the main 1-2-B switch. Ken covered that in his note above. It could very well be, and that would make it just like the Rule separate switch that I bought.Stu

 

[Jim Hamilton]

I'm a complete geek

On the advice of my surveryor, I replaced my bilge switch with the 3 way off-auto-manual. I use the manual every time I get on the boat to drain the bilge AND test the pump. About every other time I get on the boat, I actually test the float switch.Now for the geek part. I plan on installing a simple digital counter that is attached to the light on my off-auto-manual switch. Everytime that light lights up (meaning the bilge pump has activated), the counter will keep track of how many cycles the pump goes through. This way, when I'm away from the boat for some period of time and I see the counter at 25, I know that in my absence, the bilge pump kicked on 25 times and that I've got an issue that need addressing.The Electrical guy at West Marine told me that some people even add a remote red light from the off-auto-manual switch to their helm so that if they're motoring (and can't hear the bilge pump), the light on the helm will alert them to possible problems. I don't plan on going that far....Just more info on the topic. Fair Winds!!JimmyD