Bilge pump question

FastOlson · Mar 29, 2012

I have replaced several Rule float switches over the last 20 years. They seem to stop working -- i.e. will no longer make contact when the float piece is "floated" or lifted up.
Since our bilge is dry, and I just lift the float to check out the pump function, and attribute the failure of the switch to poor design or QC problems. They are a very simple device, after all. Rule dominates the market, for some reason.

You might want to check into one of the electronic switch options.
(OTOH, some folks seem to have problems with them, too.)

Not sure at all why something so fricken basic should not last forever in the average boat, but my friends seem to have the same observation/complaint.

Best,
LB

alexco38 · Mar 29, 2012

electronic switch

Be-careful with the electronic switch especially with small boat with limited battery reserve.

It need to spin the impeller once in a while in order to sense if there is water. It'll stop withing a few seconds if there is no water. The draw is very small but will drain the battery eventually.

Also, you can replace just the float if it went bad. You can replace just the electronic switch.

I vote for float switch especially the external one as you can test them.

alexco38 · Mar 29, 2012

Sorry, typo

You cannot replace just the electronic switch.

alexco38 said:
Be-careful with the electronic switch especially with small boat with limited battery reserve.

It need to spin the impeller once in a while in order to sense if there is water. It'll stop withing a few seconds if there is no water. The draw is very small but will drain the battery eventually.

Also, you can replace just the float if it went bad. You can replace just the electronic switch.

I vote for float switch especially the external one as you can test them.

dlewis812 · Mar 29, 2012

defender sale

not to do with the bilge pump but thanks for mentioning the defender sale. finally broke down and bought an auto pilot a couple weeks ago from them. it's one of the items on sale now. i sent them an email requesting the price adjustment and they immediately wrote back that they would issue a credit on my credit card!

rpell1@msn.com · Mar 29, 2012

I have BOTH. My big 1500gpm is my main and has a mechanical float switch and my secondary is a whale 650gpm with internal switch. Since I have two batteries, with a dual charger connected to dock power, I don't worry about power. But, I realize that not everyone has this luxury. It does give me peace of mind.

cb32863 said:
Seeing as our friends at Defender are having a nice sale right now, perfect timing for me. I need to put an automatic bilge pump in my boat. Being on a mooring makes that very high on the list. So here is my question, do I get one that requires a float switch or one of the electric filed sensor ones. Money-wise it would be cheaper to go with the regular pump and float switch, about half the cost, but I am wondering if there is a possible issue with the float getting stuck. Anyone have experience with the sensor ones? Any preferences?

Thanks!

Dan (CB)

Don S/V ILLusion · Mar 29, 2012

Both the sensing and the float switch types can and do break down. What you get here is typically (and understandably) personal preference. The only suggestion I'd make to anyone and especially for a boat on a mooring is to get the biggest (i.e., highest rated capacity) pump you can fit regardless of price. This more than any other price of equipment on a boat, isn't worth economizing on.

zeehag · Mar 29, 2012

i used one with automatic sensing for many years with good effect. my backup is a 2200 gph with a float switch i had to change out every 1-2 yrs.. float switches need to be monitored. the automatic ones do die after a while--mine lasted at least 7 years before needing to be replaced due to complete failure.(was a 500 gph)

Benny17441 · Mar 29, 2012

A battery sitting by itself with no draw will discharge itself eventually. A Rule 500GPH sensing pump which cycles every 2.5 minutes for 1 second will consume just under 1/4 amps per 24 hour period. Do the math. The real significant power consumption factors are 1) the size of the pump and 2) the amount of water that may need to be expelled from the boat. Both Rule 500 gph pumps draw 1.9 amps per hour and if ran continuosly each will have consumed 45 amps in 24 hours. In some boats the determining factor is the size of the bilge. I know for a fact that the h27 Cherubini has a very shallow bilge which means that by the time a float switch activates the bilge is almost full to capacity an if you are heeling under sail the water may have already spilled into the cabin sole. For that boat a sensing pump works better. Cost is a factor as the sensing pump is about 3 to 4 times more expensive. I find their operation is more reliable than that of a float switch. These small bilge pumps are convenience items which purpose is to expell incidental water that may find its way into the boat. It does it automatically and you do not have get down on your knees and scoop it up manually. To think of them as a safety item is wishful thinking at best. If safety was a real consideration the smallest boats would have the bigger pumps. A small boat with less hull volume will fill up and sink faster than a larger one. Many boats have a manual gusher high volume pump for emergencies underway. Don't get me wrong a working bilge pump may handle small intrusions and perhaps buy some time in larger ones but in an isolated boat on a mooring I would rely more on weather proofing and thru-hulls maintenance than on a small pump.

Sumner · Mar 30, 2012

If your boat is slipped or on a ball you might want to consider the alarm/phone combination that can send you a text message if the water goes higher than the pump. I posted about in on another thread....

http://forums.macgregor.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=139507

Sum

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