Bilge Pump power

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sep 25, 2003
100
Beneteau Oceanis 48 Casco Bay, ME
From the experimentation I just did, the bilge pump in my H306 is not hard wired into battery, so when my battery control switch is off, I have no bilge pump. Is this a standard set up? Hunter recommends in the manual that when leaving boat, switch battery to off position (to avoid false CO alarms etc while away), but it would seem to me that one would want to have the bilge pump kick in if need be.
 
R

Rick9619

Roger, yes

I want my pump to run, while I am away if she starts taking on water. I also am connected to shore power so I am not concerned about the batteries per say. Now I suppose you will find a set of circumstances where you set up would be beneficial. I have mine hot wired to the batteries, but I also have a breaker for the bilge in the lazarette totally seperate from the DC panel. This gives me a way to shut the bilge pump off if it runs away for some reason, because the bilge switch on the DC panel is a breaker but only has a manual and auto position. For an overheat problem I would think. My boat is a Hunter too, so check around on yours. You may already have a bilge, and master breaker installed. Mine is in the lazarette where the engine batteries are. I have a battery powered CO2 alarm so if it goes off.. oh well. Cheers
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
Your setup

is the cheap one. ALL boats should have both a switched 12 volt buss and an unswitched buss. The switched runs most everything while the unswitched is always hot and runs the bulge pump, stereo memory and the like. Each circuit should also have it's own fuse/CB regardless of which buss it operates on.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.