I am looking for a better way to install a bilge pump on my Cal 2-27, number 339. The current system, a electric pump and float switch mounted to the bottom of the bilge has stopped working, making this the convenient time to improve the system. The current system pumps out high on the stern, which means the hose is always full of water because once the bilge is empty, the pump can not pump the water left in the hose. I have installed a one way valve in the pipe to keep the water from flowing back into the bilge and cycling the pump. The valve leaks over time and a few inches of smelly water accumulates in the bilge. The boat doesn't leak from the cabin, all water seems to come in through the cock pit seats. This boat has an outboard motor. Has anyone discovered a better way?
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There really isn't a better way...
'Cuz the thru-hull needs to be high enough on the hull to stay out of the water...otherwise, the boat would take ON water instead of pumping it out. A check valve in the line is not recommended...'cuz if it clogs or fails, the bilge pump can't remove any water. An since bilge water is full of glop and debris, the odds of a clogged or failed check valve are high. The only real solution if you don't want a wet smelly bilge: before closing up the boat, use a dinghy bailer, a bucket and a sponge to remove the water the bilge pump leaves behind. I know that's not what you want to hear, but despite what the dealers tell you, no boat can be properly maintained without at least a LITTLE manual labor.
'Cuz the thru-hull needs to be high enough on the hull to stay out of the water...otherwise, the boat would take ON water instead of pumping it out. A check valve in the line is not recommended...'cuz if it clogs or fails, the bilge pump can't remove any water. An since bilge water is full of glop and debris, the odds of a clogged or failed check valve are high. The only real solution if you don't want a wet smelly bilge: before closing up the boat, use a dinghy bailer, a bucket and a sponge to remove the water the bilge pump leaves behind. I know that's not what you want to hear, but despite what the dealers tell you, no boat can be properly maintained without at least a LITTLE manual labor.
bilg pump
First question, why is water getting into your bilge from the cockpit seats? It shouldn't be. I woudl fix that first. Next, you may be able to raise the hose under the cockpit. If you can raise it higher than the outlet, ionstall a siphon break. then only the the water in the hose from the high point/siphon break will flow back to the pump. The siphon break shoudl be as high as possible and as close to the pump as possible. In you rboat, you should be able to mount it on theside of teh cockpit jusat aft of the companionway. It would be near the forward end of the quarter berth on whichever side you choose to install it. And don't install a check valve.
First question, why is water getting into your bilge from the cockpit seats? It shouldn't be. I woudl fix that first. Next, you may be able to raise the hose under the cockpit. If you can raise it higher than the outlet, ionstall a siphon break. then only the the water in the hose from the high point/siphon break will flow back to the pump. The siphon break shoudl be as high as possible and as close to the pump as possible. In you rboat, you should be able to mount it on theside of teh cockpit jusat aft of the companionway. It would be near the forward end of the quarter berth on whichever side you choose to install it. And don't install a check valve.
Cal 2-27 Bilge Pump
In my Cal 2-27, I use a Jabsco 4.5 GPM (model 37202-0000) controlled using a Groco AS-100 Bilge Pump Switch. The pump is a diaphram pump, therefore no water returns to the bilge.
In my Cal 2-27, I use a Jabsco 4.5 GPM (model 37202-0000) controlled using a Groco AS-100 Bilge Pump Switch. The pump is a diaphram pump, therefore no water returns to the bilge.
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