Bilge pump hose

Jan 22, 2008
99
Hunter 30_74-83 Rochester, New York (Lake Ontario)
Hello,

I just replaced the bilge pump and plan on replacing the 3/4 inch hose running from the pump out of the boat. Has anyone used hose other than the ribbed hard plastic that is stock? It seems unribbed hose would allow better flow. Just curious as to what had been used and what would be recommended...

Thanks
 
Jul 25, 2007
320
-Irwin -Citation 40 Wilmington, NC
You are right that bilge pump hose they sell is not very good. I like to use the white sanitation type hose but any good smooth wall vinyl or rubber hose will work.
 
Jan 22, 2008
99
Hunter 30_74-83 Rochester, New York (Lake Ontario)
Wayne,

Thanks for the info. The route I plan on taking is to find the appropriate sized hose making sure it is rigid enough to prevent collapse and has a smooth liner. It will likely improve the efficiency.

Regards,
Bob
 

hewebb

.
Oct 8, 2011
329
Catalina Catalina 25 Joe Pool Lake
I used flexible PVC when I installed a back up pump. Seems to work well. I test the pump occasionally.
 
Aug 15, 2014
114
Catalina 36 Deale, MD
Does anyone install a check valve next to the sump pump to prevent all the water from running back down the hose when the pump shuts off?
 
May 24, 2004
7,174
CC 30 South Florida
Does anyone install a check valve next to the sump pump to prevent all the water from running back down the hose when the pump shuts off?
Not recommended as check valves are prone to get fouled by debris. It would not be a critical application but failure to allow the discharge of bilge water could be messy.
 

Alctel

.
Dec 13, 2013
264
Hunter 36 Victoria
Does anyone install a check valve next to the sump pump to prevent all the water from running back down the hose when the pump shuts off?
I did for my tiny (500GPH) pump that sucks out the last of the water in the bottom.

I have a 2000GPH 'oh ****' pump a bit higher up for major water incursion that I don't. If the check valve jammed on the small one that would deal with any water that came in.

If I just had one pump, I wouldn't do it.
 
Aug 15, 2014
114
Catalina 36 Deale, MD
I like the two pump idea. Could you post more about the float and pump on your 500GPM setup? My float needs to see a good 2 inches before activating and the pump does not suck up the last inch or so even if I'm holding the float up. Looking for a system that gets ALL the water out.
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
I've done similar to Alctel for many years now also with a small 500 gph pump whose only purpose is to suck out bilge water to the last 1/4" or so in the very aft one foot of the bilge -- which leaves the remaining forward 8-10ft or so completely dry all the time. The pump is fused at the DC panel. I rigged with no float. It has an on/off switch which I placed high up in the in the bilge so as never to get wet. On the discharge hose, right next to the pump, I have installed an in-line valve of the type pictured below. This pump has it's own dedicated hose to the outside -- not shared with the other pumps. When I want to completely drain the bilge, I take off the bilge cover from the cabin sole, open the valve and flip the switch to start the pump. When the pump starts sucking air, I immediately put the hose valve to the shut position. Then turn off the pump. The valve prevents water still in the hose from running back into the bilge. The valve stays closed until the next time I want to drain the bilge. The only downside to this arrangement is that I need to get on my knees and reach into the bilge.

I can't think of any other way except to do the same and instead of a manual valve, use a self closing check valve. Problem is that any 'crud" that gets sucked up through the pump can get lodged in the check-valve diaphragm which will allow the water in the hose to drain back into the bilge.

Of course for the serious bilge pump-out needs, I have two larger capacity float activated systems -- each independent of the other and each with separate hoses to the outside.




 

Alctel

.
Dec 13, 2013
264
Hunter 36 Victoria
Mine is pretty much the same as Rardi's - the 500 is the 'automatic' type that cycles for a second every 3 mins or so and is wired to an on/off breaker on the DC manual, and the 2000 is on a float switch, wired directly to the battery

This leaves around an inch of water in the bottom of the bilge - I'm thinking about installing a self-priming diaphragm pump controlled with an off/on switch to get the last of the water out and moving the automatic to the 'front' bilge, with the hose from that leading into the main bilge.
 
Sep 12, 2011
88
Hunter 27 Annapolis
Sure, use a check valve. Many of them come with an inspection plug so you can clear any debris, etc from the valve. I am about to do the same to my H27.
My only problem is I have a small Rule brand pump and it doesn't seem to have enough power to make the 3' - 4' head (height) up and out. This is why I'm thinking check valve.
 
Nov 26, 2012
1,654
C&C 40-2 Berkeley
check valve

I have done some research on this subject myself and the sanitation hose is the way to go. Also, if you can live with a little back flow go without the check valve. What I've read is that the check valve reduces the efficiency of the pump by as much as half.