bilge pump and float switch

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letterman

letterman

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Jan 27, 2007
383
Irwin 37' center cockpit cleveland ohio
I need to install one on each side of my bilge. The problem is getting them to stay put, and upright. My bilges are deep. What do you mount the pump and switch too on a fiberglass boat? I can't screw to to the bottom. I was thinking of buying lead from a plumbing store and mounting it on that. I'm open for suggestions.
 
LANCE ON CLOUD NINE

LANCE ON CLOUD NINE

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Mar 28, 2007
637
Oday 23 Anna Maria Isl.
Hi letterman

Could you use a plastic coated bar bell weight? Have you had any further action on your shore side park redevelopment idea? Are you sailing yet?
 
Ross

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
How about a brick?

and a piece of string? ;D
 
Joseph Shirley

Joseph Shirley

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Jun 13, 2005
559
Irwin Barefoot 37 CC Sloop Port Orchard WA
My bilge sump is so deep I cant reach the bottom

without someone holding my legs to pull me out. My pump was originally mounted to the bottom with a float switch, the discharge check valve and a section of hose to a union. I remounted it all on a board with a long rigid handle mounted at 90 degrees to the boards face so by disconnecting the union in the hose I can lift the whole assembly out. My pump sits about 1/2 " higher now but the sump is so deep it doesn't affect anything. Joe S
 
Jim

Jim

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May 21, 2007
775
Catalina 36 MK II NJ
letterman use

3m4200...not 5200. I think it will hold them in!
 
sailortonyb Allied Mis

sailortonyb Allied Mis

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Jun 12, 2004
1,181
Allied Mistress 39 Ketch Kemah,Tx.
Epoxy a board......

Epoxy or use 5200 (not 4200), to hold a piece of teak in place. Then you can screw the pump and switch to the board. The reason I say 3M 5200 is because this should be considered a permanent part of the boat and I wouldn't trust it to a caulking. This is one of the rare occasions that I might consider 5200 and that would only be if it were real handy. Normally, I would use epoxy which I usually always have around. On my present boat, the bilge is so deep and under the engine, there is no way to really get to it. I have a long stick that goes down to the bottom of the bilge and on the end of the stick is a small board (platform) that the bilge pump and switch are mounted on. If I need to service either one, I just pull up the whole thing. Tony B
 
S

Steve Dion

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Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Why can't you mount it to fiberglass?

Letterman: Why can't you mount it to the bottom of the bilge? I have had three fiberglass boats and every pump & float have been screwed into fiberglass without any problems.
 
Don12364

Don12364

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Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
An Alternative Idea

My H376 also has a deep(ish) stub keel. From memory about 2' deep by 8" wide. The boat came fitted with a piece of expanded uPVC sheet about 4" wide and an inch shorter than the depth of the stub. To the bottom of this strip is a plate a little narrower than the inside width of the bottom of the stub and on to which the bilge pump and float switch are mounted. It all simply rests in the bottom of the stub and, being a slack fit, does not move under boat motion. The cable and the flexible bilge hose come from the pump as normal. To access the whole for service or to clear any blockage one just lifts the entire piece - pump and float switch out of the stub. IMHO a neat solution and has proved its worth many times! You could make similar in 5/16" marine ply or aluminium sheet depending on your equipment and DIY abilities.
 
letterman

letterman

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Jan 27, 2007
383
Irwin 37' center cockpit cleveland ohio
hello all

I likes the brick idea, and thought of using a piece of marble (easily drilled and worked) for the base. The marble is about 3/4" thick or a little more, and it would add ballast too. If that doesn't work to well, the I will use some scrap plexiglass as the base. I didn't really want to use epoxy, or screw into the bottom, because of a constant leak. This thing has me baffled as to how to stop it. I reglassed the entire area twice using a total of 5 pieces of fiberglass cloth and matt. I like the idea of being able to remove the unit, especially after scrounging up thee bilge pumps from boats about to be destroyed. All of them were fouled with dried oil or some tar like substance. I removed the bottoms, cleaned everything with turps, and they look and act like new. Lastly, I went in yesterday! Earliest time ever and only the second boat in. We sailed in very light air for three hours before returning.
 
Ed Schenck

Ed Schenck

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Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Early in on Lake Erie!

Yesterday it was 55 degrees and the lake water is what, 40? That is an early splash and then you actually sailed? I am so envious. I agree with Steve, screw the pump and switch to the fiberglass. But use very short screws and some 4200. If you mount the pump and/or switch on something that is just that much more water in the bilge. As it is the pump will leave almost an inch in there. That leak you mentioned, that is the one from the screw hole in the bottom of the bilge? And you can't stop it?!
 
T

Tony

Screwed to bottom

I agree with steve mine is screwed to bottom screws probably an inch or so would be concerned about any mounting that might fail that litle pump will save your whole boat i'd be very respectful of it and how it is mounted t
 
Joseph Shirley

Joseph Shirley

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Jun 13, 2005
559
Irwin Barefoot 37 CC Sloop Port Orchard WA
The reason it shouldn't be mounted to the bottom is

you should be able to pull it out to repair, clean, or replace it when you come aboard and find a foot of water over the floorboards and your pump is not pumping for whatever reason. Its a bitch to hold your breath while you dive into 3 feet of water to get your pump out. Then you have to put one back! I have had pumps quit on me several times. Mostly because of float switch failures, once the pump burned out because the pump didn't shut off. Fortunately I never had that much water and my pump is easily removable from the top of the very deep sump. Happy Sailing Joe S
 
Ross

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Most domestic sump pumps are heavy enough

to stay in the bottom of the hole. But then too the house doesn't move around very much. As Joe S. stated just mounting it to a little shelf on a board long enough to provide a handle is as simple and convenient as you can get. Of course you can make it complicated if you feel better about it that way. ;)
 
C

Chilly Willy

Velcro?

As Ross mentioned, you can make it as simple or complicated as you want. Has anyone ever used velcro? I have a Mac 25 and am looking at the same issue. I have been considering velcro for its simplicity and easy removal of the pump when needed. I would think it would hold as long as you're not constantly removing and replacing the pump. Has anyone ever did this before?
 
Ross

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
cable ties and wire cutters are the simplist answer to this question

what you use to hold the pump in place can be debated for months. But the simple truth is you want the pump to stay put and if it goes bad you want to be able to deal with it easily.
 
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