Bilge High Water Alarm & Pump
- Thread starter Jeff Jellick
- Start date
This is what I wanted to add to the picture i posted. The boat is a 2005 Hunter 45 CC. I have two bilge pumps, the one in the picture is the High Water Level Pump. I check it's operation once a month, by turning the knob on the float switch. When I do this the pump runs and there is a loud audible alarm to warn you that the pump is ruining and there is high water level in the bilge. This month when I checked it the pump turned on, but there was no audible alarm. I cannot locate the alarm itself, Is the alarm inside of the float switch?
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
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Im wondering why there would be a pump at the high mark? I understand there is one on the floor of the bilge but why wait to use the second pump once the bilge is really full?
Someone must have started the misconception that a high water pump was not only a good thing to have but that it is also impresindible. Bilge pumps are a mere convenience item used to discharge incidental water that collects in the bilge without having to manually scoop it up. A pump that is inspected and maintained regularly will do just fine. Adding a second pump is just a poor excuse to avoid doing inspections. Never understood the concept of allowing the bilge to fill up almost to the top before activating a 2nd pump.
Benny, the 2nd pump is an insurance policy incase of a breach. It buys you time to find the massive problem. Mine is rated at 4000 gph or 66 gallons per minute. I have read several accounts where boats were abandoned because there was not enough dewatering equipment to allow time to figure out where the water was coming from. In one situation the captain, believed that the thruster tube may have seperated. Had he adequate pumps the boat could have been saved. Sadly it went to the bottom of the atlantic.
Alarm is at the engine panel in cockpit and yes a extra pump to help save the boat and thank goodness never needed it.
Nick
Nick
Obviously I understand the concept of having two pumps double your gpm. I'm questioning having it raised to the elevation that they are.
This second pump is basically the “0h sh*t” pump.
It only activates when your regularly pump is so overworked , or busted, so that the water level rises dramatucakkt
There is an ear splitting alarm on the. Outside cockpit panel when this goes off.
The capacity is signifucavf
I’ve always thought that a small flag should pip up that says “help ! “If this pump went off.
I installed a similar high water bilge pump long ago. A main reason to do it was that located in the bottom of the sump, the float switch would activate often as there is always some water in the deep sump. A few times it jammed and ran a battery down. Annoying.
I located the pump and switch, 5 gallons above the bottom of the sump (it's very deep and unreachable with an arm).
Instead of the alarm, it has a large red warning light mounted in the companionway that's easy to see above or below decks, especially at night. An alarm as well would be even better.
Having sunk this boat once before, I no longer have any hope that a bilge pump will (short of a gasoline powered trash pump) save you from a substantial inflow of water.
I only expect the high water bilge pump to keep up with very small leaks when the boat is unattended. More likely it will warn you of a head leaking, a water line bursting or other nuisances that happen often at night while under power.
In the deep sump I have a strum box plumbed to a large, manual diaphram bilge pump. That's what clears and or checks (by sound, feel pumping), the bilge level. It's nice to know through regular use that the biggest pump is operating.
I located the pump and switch, 5 gallons above the bottom of the sump (it's very deep and unreachable with an arm).
Instead of the alarm, it has a large red warning light mounted in the companionway that's easy to see above or below decks, especially at night. An alarm as well would be even better.
Having sunk this boat once before, I no longer have any hope that a bilge pump will (short of a gasoline powered trash pump) save you from a substantial inflow of water.
I only expect the high water bilge pump to keep up with very small leaks when the boat is unattended. More likely it will warn you of a head leaking, a water line bursting or other nuisances that happen often at night while under power.
In the deep sump I have a strum box plumbed to a large, manual diaphram bilge pump. That's what clears and or checks (by sound, feel pumping), the bilge level. It's nice to know through regular use that the biggest pump is operating.
Slipin Away, Thank's, I knew that you had the answer, I was going to contact you but you beat me to it.
I just replaced the 2 house batteries, and the starting battery. The starting battery was 14 years old, and the two house batteries were 9+ years old. Have you had to replace yours yet?
Thanks Again
Jeff
SV Sooooo Lucky
A second (high water) electric bilge pump can potentially facilitate dewatering if the boat partially fills after having been swamped or rolled. That is, it is not holed so no additional water may be entering, at least not rapidly. My second bilge pump, not yet fully installed, will kick in very quickly after the lower one goes off and the alarm sounds, if the water ingress is getting ahead of it. That is, the lower pump goes off. Next, a “high water” alarm quickly after if the water rises even a little more. Then, the second bilge pump, long before there is enough water to substantially fill the bilge, etc. Short an outright collision of some type, there are few places where water might enter via the hull. Diesel intake, or other thru hulls were a hose has broken off. If any are open, close ‘em. Inspect the rudder post; check the transducer & speed log thru hulls.
Better, routinely inspect all hose clamps, especially on the underside. Use a mirror to inspect or remove to inspect. A small leak at a hose connection can run down the hose on the underside and rust out the clamp where you cannot see it easily.
Better, routinely inspect all hose clamps, especially on the underside. Use a mirror to inspect or remove to inspect. A small leak at a hose connection can run down the hose on the underside and rust out the clamp where you cannot see it easily.
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