Bilge fuse

[Tennessee River]

I have a 1992 Hunter 30T; and am trying to locate where an inline fuse would be for the Bilge pump.
Bilge pump will not come on when in auto or when I switch to manual. I have manipulated the Rule float up and down and does not appear to be stuck. I checked the wiring going into pump and did not find a fuse at that point. I opened the control panel and looked behind the auto/manual switch; no fuse at that location. The selector switch in the battery compartment has a 25 amp reset button labeled for the bilge, that I assume is supposed to function as a disconnect for the system. It is in normal position; although I did press to see if it had popped out. All said, the Mayfair pump and Rule float are all original as far as I can tell and assume that there was a failure by pump or float. I would have thought that there would have been a fuse in line between the battery and pump that I could check to see if there had been a failure at the pump. Does anyone know if there is a fuse located behind the selector switch panel or anywhere that I have not checked? I have not had the opportunity to run a test on the wiring or remove the pump to see if it was locked up. I wanted to follow a process of elimination, because if there is an inline fuse, it will not matter if I put all new in to replace the old if there is a fuse that is bad. HELP!

 

[zeehag]

perhaps is pump FAIL, as that does happen.
could be wiring is wrong. that happens.
could be the connections are corroded. that happens.
try re-wiring the pump. if that does not work, try a different pump. that might cure the fail problem completely.
make sure it is wired properly.
mine have the fuses in the breaker. that is what controls my pumps. i have not seen an inline fuse, as the breaker will cut the power when the dampump fails. ask me how i know this.....

 

[Breal]

My wires were corroded at the beginning of this season. Neither my auto or manual bilge was working properly. Check wiring and float with a multi meter for continuity. Make sure it beeps when the float is up if it's a mercury type float. Work your way back to the fuse box. Ensure fuses are good. I blew a few out do to the corroded wire. I replaced it then blew it out again do to multiple corroded wiring connections.

 

[celticwinds]

Use a voltage tester that has a sharp point on the end. Connect the end on the tester to a ground on your battery then check for voltage at the pump using the pointed end of the tester checking each wire. This will let you test the pump and the switch for voltage. Run a hot wire to the pump and test the pump and then test the switch the same way. If both parts test good, then you know the problem is with the wiring. Use the test probe to check the wiring the same way going a few feet at a time. Remember the test probe has to be grounded at all times.

 

[Tennessee River]

Thanks to Zeehag, Breal, Celticwinds for the replies. I had time this weekend to work on problem. There was no inline fuse, only a 25 amp reset for a 5 amp max. pump and 5 amp max.float switch. The pump was toast along with switch and the reset was not kicked out; fortunate not to have had a fire. I installed a new pump and switch with an inline 5 amp fuse, working great now.

 

[Dan_Y]

My 30T has a bilge pump fuse behind the control panel in the rats nest wire harness. It is push button reset and was 5 amps I think. Now that you mention this, not sure what size the manual bilge pump breaker switch is on the control panel. First time I noticed the fuse though, I moved it to look at the rating and a wire fell off. Doh!

 

[Tennessee River]

Thanks Dan; I checked that area but none there on mine. But when I installed the new pump and float switch I also installed a 5 amp fuse. All is well now!