Bigger Fiberglass Repair Then I Wanted To Do

geehaw

.
May 15, 2010
231
O-day 25 shoal keel Valdez
Well I took a bigger bite then I wanted to. I am kinda wondering what others think about the glass being separated from the wood at upper right side of repair? This wood I believe is only backing for the outboard and I don't believe it was ever adhered to the fiberglass . I don't really want to chase this any farther. I only wanted to repair some cracks around the rudder hinge area. This was caused from hitting a rock with the rudder a couple of years ago. Above the rub rail also cracked from rub rail over the top of the combing and down the inside to the seat which repaired then. So this loose fiberglass might have happened then too. If so I figure it is loose for as high as that wood goes. Anyone feel that I need to continue grinding?

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Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
the loose board... if its not epoxied in, there is way more board/weight there than is necessary to support the outboard.
and if it were me doing it, I would epoxy the backup board in to the hull, as this very firm attachment will allow the vibrations and stresses from the motor to be placed over a larger area of fiberglass.... rather than it all being concentrated at the 4 bolt holes.... it would easy enough to remove it, cut it to a better size and attach it at this time, as you need to get in the boat to remove it, but to reinstall it, it could all be done from the outside.

but no matter, its not necessary and its seems to have been working fine, and it wont make your repair any stronger. so if you arent going to do anything with it, I would protect it with a piece of visqueen fitted nicely over it and tucked in, so you dont accidentally attach it during the repair/layup

you have plenty ground out, and it should be feathered 10-12 to 1..... so its time for the work to begin.
 

geehaw

.
May 15, 2010
231
O-day 25 shoal keel Valdez
It's already tapered to where the center hole is? I used a straight ruler to try and get a nice even taper. Those boards are also covered in fiberglass on inside so not really removable. Also the motor had another, none attached backer board behind it. So I feel it was well supported.