Thanks for the information Kloudie1. That is good information.
Where is the lock out pin located?
Where is the lock out pin located?
Big Changes today and more decisions to make
- Thread starter Bad Obsession
- Start date
The pin will be a bolt or pin you insert horizontally across the tongue underneathe the 2 downward hooks between the hitch crank knob and the resevoir.The pin should keep the entire big box housing from sliding forwrd toward the ball when braking.
Actually, the resevoir box is fixed, the ball would want to slide backwards toward the trailer when stopping or reversing. Found this out the hard way when trying to back my P23 uphill into the driveway on the first trip home from the P.O..
Personally, I might be tempted to pull it home without doing the brake work. You did ask what could go wrong, though. You could be going down a long hill, overheat the brakes on your truck and boil its brake fluid. This would make it much harder to stop. Now it's only really is a problem if you get in an accident. If you do, after all the lawsuits, you might find it was cheaper to fix the brakes in the first place 
If the brakes are not working (indicating a lack of maintenance), I would be more worried about the state of the wheel bearings as you could lose a wheel if one set up.
My personal story, along these lines, happened when we bought a used power boat about 10 years ago. I was towing it home (a 15-20 mile drive) when I saw one of the trailer wheels pass me. It shot across the road and took out a Honda that was going the other way. Luckily, no one was hurt. The boat and trailer finished the trip home on a flat bed. Who'd a thought that the previous owner would have taken the wheels off to paint them, and never got the lugs back on tight enough. The bearings were shot as well. Recently, there was an accident not too far from me, where a boat trailer, being pulled home from winter storage, lost a wheel. The wheel went through the windshield of another car and killed the driver. This was a sad reminder of how lucky I was.
The next boat we bought didn't move until I repacked the bearings and torqued the lugs in the owners driveway (in a rain storm).
So you could say I'm a little paranoid about these things. Your call on your new used trailer, though
If the brakes are not working (indicating a lack of maintenance), I would be more worried about the state of the wheel bearings as you could lose a wheel if one set up.
My personal story, along these lines, happened when we bought a used power boat about 10 years ago. I was towing it home (a 15-20 mile drive) when I saw one of the trailer wheels pass me. It shot across the road and took out a Honda that was going the other way. Luckily, no one was hurt. The boat and trailer finished the trip home on a flat bed. Who'd a thought that the previous owner would have taken the wheels off to paint them, and never got the lugs back on tight enough. The bearings were shot as well. Recently, there was an accident not too far from me, where a boat trailer, being pulled home from winter storage, lost a wheel. The wheel went through the windshield of another car and killed the driver. This was a sad reminder of how lucky I was.
The next boat we bought didn't move until I repacked the bearings and torqued the lugs in the owners driveway (in a rain storm).
So you could say I'm a little paranoid about these things. Your call on your new used trailer, though
It looks like you have a titan model 60 actuator - if set up similar to my trailer you could have free backing drum brakes - no lockout pin needed for reverse.
How is it that I just checked the parts for a trailer brake system for my boat and I am coming up with $347 worth of materials but I have been quoted a price for replacement at $1000-$1500? That seems like a lot of labor at $75 an hour.
Even with 4 hours of labor that comes to $647 for parts and labor. That seems more reasonable to me.
It is so tempting to try this work myself. I have put a water pump on a diesel engine and all kinds of other stuff....how hard can this be? Then I think about bleeding the brake lines and adjustment and I get concerned. I wonder if I could install all of the stuff and then have someone come by and pay them an hour or two to bleed and adjust the system.
The design of the trailer would mean that running a new line would be child's play. It is really easy to access the actuator and replace it (two bolts or three bolts). There are videos on youtube on how to install the drums and the brakes.
Even with 4 hours of labor that comes to $647 for parts and labor. That seems more reasonable to me.
It is so tempting to try this work myself. I have put a water pump on a diesel engine and all kinds of other stuff....how hard can this be? Then I think about bleeding the brake lines and adjustment and I get concerned. I wonder if I could install all of the stuff and then have someone come by and pay them an hour or two to bleed and adjust the system.
The design of the trailer would mean that running a new line would be child's play. It is really easy to access the actuator and replace it (two bolts or three bolts). There are videos on youtube on how to install the drums and the brakes.
Oh....At least the boat was in sail-away shape! LOL. Seriously, the boat is in good shape and all of the basic systems work well.
bleeding them would be a piece of cake if you got a mitey vac. they used to be like $30. hook it up to the bleeder, crack the bleeder and pump it up to 10-15psi and wait for the air bubbles to stop. make sure to keep an eye on the reservoir. move to the other side and repeat. That would only leave you with the adjusting. at that point it would be drivable (unless they are way to tight) and you could just drive it somewhere locally and have them adjust it for you.
all of that still only applies if you intend to fix the brakes when you get home. if not, then I don't think it is worth the $ to fix them just for the drive.
all of that still only applies if you intend to fix the brakes when you get home. if not, then I don't think it is worth the $ to fix them just for the drive.
Your mechanics quote probably already included broken bolts, drilling, tapping, sweating, I'll fitting sockets due to corrosion, two trips to the trailer shop, etc, etc.
Any work you do on it now will definitely reduce your maintenance costs. Exponentially so..
Any work you do on it now will definitely reduce your maintenance costs. Exponentially so..
I replaced my surge brake system with electric for very little cost. For your boat trailer I would do that on the rear axel as a minimum. My experience with surge brake systems has not been good. Especially if your truck has a pre wired trailer breaking system. I personally would not attempt the trip without trailer brakes.
http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/it...tric+Brake+Drum+Assembles&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=
http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/it...tric+Brake+Drum+Assembles&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=
FWIW, if you stay with hydraulics, bleeding the system is very easy. The lever looking thing that sticks out of the top of the unit (the emergency brake lock) can be carefully pivoted forward using a large set of channel lock pliers. This pushes the master cylinder piston in (pull the cover if you want to see how things work). You can have an assistant crack the bleeders as you do this. Just like bleeding a car. Try not to go too far with the lever as it will lock in place and you will have to mechanically release it. You can also use a vacuum bleeder if you have one.
The only big issue can be getting the bleeders loose. You may end up replacing wheel cylinders.
The only big issue can be getting the bleeders loose. You may end up replacing wheel cylinders.