Best Year for the Catalina 27

[HillbillyWanderer]

In the near future I am looking to buy a Catalina 27 and was wondering what years if any are better built boats than others? Seems like I remember reading somewhere that the early boats had thicker hulls than later models. Not sure. I like the mid to late 80's model looks with the sloped cabin and windows without the aluminum frames. However if the earlier models are of better build than that is something to take into consideration as well. Not sure if interior is any different over the years they all seem to be the same with dinette or traditional layout.

 

[The Garbone]

I am partial but had a 74 with factory outboard well. Great in light air and thick hull with no blisters. Very basic and simple, not much not to like.

 

[Donnybrook]

If you want to race, get an early 70's model with outboard and tiller. They seem to rate better. Around mid 1985, Catalina changed the deck mold to the sloping cabin that makes better ventilation, especially in the v-berth. Also, there are slight changes in the head and more galley space. Also, by mid 80's, most of the upgrades were done by the factory, such as stainless keel bolts, stainless spreader sockets, bigger anchor locker, stronger shroud chainplates, frameless windows, and more.

 

[jrowan]

I believe that all Catalina's are similar, in that the 70's models have thicker hulls, as many builders did not know exactly how much glass to build their hulls with, & erred on the side of caution. By the mid 1980's all Catalina's were upgraded to stainless steel keel bolts, chain plates & generally better quality hardware. The older models are going to require more maintenance upgrades, as the original equipment just wears out.

I am actually partial to the much maligned glass ports, as they may leak, but they don't crack like ALL of the smoked Lexan type plastic portholes do. Don't discount the worth of better ventilation & ergonomics of later models. Opening ports are a must. If I buy a boat without opening ports I always install them, & Nicro solar vents, as it helps reduce mold or mildew buildup & makes the cabin much more comfortable to sleep in.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned that's important is that 1970's through early 80's models have crappy wiring & unreliable fuse panels. Old wiring is not only unreliable at the worst times, but can be downright dangerous.
I also believe its more important to have newer sails on a prospective boat, then anything else. Old, tired & baggy sails affect performance negatively more then anything else, & are one of the most expensive items to replace.

 

[Jackdaw]

I believe that all Catalina's are similar, in that the 70's models have thicker hulls, as many builders did not know exactly how much glass to build their hulls with, & erred on the side of caution.

This is not exactly true in all cases. During WW2, the US government sponsored a huge amount of research into the strength and durability of fiberglass, that went into the public domain after the war. So very much about the strength of glass was known (or at least available) to marine engineers and builders. Often they made the hulls thick because what they DID know about it, and its difference to wood. Fiberglass is very strong, but flexes much more than wood. Therefore, for any given amount of required strength, an unsupported length of fiberglass hull must be thicker to prevent flexing. This was done because most builders adopted wooden boat design methods in early fiberglass boats. Later on, as grid systems, partial bulkheads, and other reinforcement techniques came onto the scene, glass got thinner in hulls.

When they got it wrong, 'oilcanning' was the result. That never happened with wooden boats.

 

[Chief RA]

I am currently setting my 1998 Catalina 250 up for launching this month. After cutting/drilling through this boats hull/interior it has amazed me at how thick the glass is. This hull appears to be 1/4 inch thick throughout. I know that was true in the 70's (I owned a '74 Clipper Marine 26) but was unaware that the newer Catalinas had such thick hulls. There is also minimal wood used in its construction. I am pleased and impressed even more now with the boat! Chief

 

[jrowan]

That's funny, because I don't consider 1/4" to be thick, but this is normally just thin where the hull runs above the water line. As an example of some really thick construction, when I cut out a hole in the deck of my C 30 for a Nicro vent in the head, the core showed 1/4 " of glass at the outer deck, 1 full inch of marine plywood & or balsa wood core & another 1/4" of glass liner for the inner cabin top. The core sample was 1.5" total thickness. That would be my point as to building boats a lot stronger & heavier then todays boats. BTW oil canning can & will happen on a wooden boat, if it has wet rot in the hull. The C 30 is 10,000 lbs., empty & for a 30 footer this is considered very heavy, when compared to its contemporary 30 foot production boats such as Hunter, Cal, Pearson, etc. I believe that an average 30 footer todays weighs around 7,500 lbs, or even less. I guess this is better for performance, but it is reassuring to know how solid & stiff the C 30 is under sail. The C 27 was no slouch either, but I believe the C 25 & C 22 are built on the light side, & are easy to damage when they get water in 'em which rots out all the wooden bulkheads & supports rather easily. But its still amazing to see how many 35 - 40 year old Catalina's are still skulking around & out sailing most of their contemporaries, which were crushed many years back!

 

[Chief RA]

jrowan: I also had 1/4" glass on the hatch with other than a wood core and another 1/4" glass on the bottom side of the hatch when I installed the solar vent fan. Your talking about deck and I didn't cut through that. Bulkhead hull thickness of 1/4" is what I am refering to and 1/4" is thick!
I own a 250 1998, not a 25. That is the point: it is well built for newer boats! I am sure this hull gets even thicker as she rolls below the waterline! Thats all I said.

Chief