Any advice very welcome..Currently fitting a bow-thruster. Plan to have a dedicated battery adjacent to the thruster on very short heavy duty cables. No cables needed from helm control because it's wirelss. What's the best way of charging the battery? Not too far away are the heavy duty cables that feed the anchor windlass (3) Common, up, down. These cables run the length of the boat and are controlled via a circuit breaker and relay. A light weight three core wire connects the relay box to the deck foot swithches. I hoped not to run new light weight wires from the battery management system through the whole length of the boat. Does anyone know if I can utilise the windlass cabling for charge purposes? If it's possible, how's it done? thanks in advance.
best way to cable?
- Thread starter papillondenuit
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You could just use the windlass cables for the thruster cause you wouldn't be using the windlass at the same time as the thruster but if you do put the additional battery then run a positive and a negative cable to the relay from the new battery with an automatic charging relay installed
We really need more info.
12V or 24V thruster?
12V or 24V windlass?
12V or 24V house system and charging system?
You usually would not utilize the windlass cabling for the thruster charging as the breaker should normally be off except when planning to use it.
You would also not want to use a normal combining relay as the current drawn from the bow thruster could damage it. They make current limiting relays that would be safer than a normal simple combining relay for this type of application where high load devices are connected to the charging system.
There is a product by Sterling Power USA that is great for charging batteries in remote locations called the Battery to Battery Charger or a B2B charger, as I refer to them. They are specifically engineered for this type of application.
Sterling Battery To Battery Chargers
These will allow you to charge a 24V bank from a 12V bank or a 12V bank from a 12V bank or a 24V to 24V. You can also mix chemistry and they output a proper charge algorithm for the second battery bank.
My circuit breaker for the battery cable to my windlass relay is always on cause its location is not so easy to get to but the control circuit for the relay is at the ships breaker panel and turned on when needed......are you saying that this feeder be turned off/on on a regular basis....it is protected
It all depends upon how the installer wires it. I prefer to have the solenoid control box, if possible, at the breaker end of the cable. This way the large 2/0 wire with 300A fuse is not "always energized passing though 30 feet of boat, bulkheads and obstructions. When the foot or hand switch is energized it then energizes the large GA wire but depending upon the brand this is not always possible.
There are other reasons for not using the windlass cable for charging such as the difference is "sizing" and the potential for overload, if you were using a relay. If using a B2B and the windlass is always live then this could work but just remember that there is a LOT of voltage drop at the end of a windlass wire even with the engine running and the potential for "spikes" from the magnetic field around the solenoid collapsing that could cause potential for damage to a B2B when the windlass is engaged an the unit "charging".. Generally a better idea to pull the B2B directly off the house bank. There will be less susceptibility to voltage transients and voltage drop when pulled from the bank end as opposed to the windlass end..
Some also just use a small dedicated battery charger for the thruster battery. This assumes that you have shore power available or a generator (if off the dock for long periods of time) and have 110 volt near the bow for wiring it in. Since the thruster is used primarily when docking it does not need a large charger, maybe a 5 or 10 amp max that can also float charge see link
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|985|316472&id=724506
You may also might be able to use you existing charger depending on what type it is and if you have an unused lead but this would more them likely have to have wires run most of the boat's' lenght
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|985|316472&id=724506
You may also might be able to use you existing charger depending on what type it is and if you have an unused lead but this would more them likely have to have wires run most of the boat's' lenght
thruster wiring
Main Sail asked for more info. 12v thruster, 12v windlass, 12v house system.
I'm warming to the B2B system you allude to and have a suspicion Sterling Power may have orriginated in the UK (Well, Scotland) My experience with Sterling has been positive: I remember a conversation when I was advised to throw my expensive Gel batteries over board and invest in a bank of cheap truck batteries that could be 'cooked'. The boat now has a Sterling management system that works well.
I take the point about breakers. The windlass is protected 100Amps. The Vetus 55Kgf thruster 3-4KW, consuption 350Amps, main fuse 250Amps, Battery switch 250Amps.
Petersea, Yes we have shorepower available 240V UK (sorry, couldn't open the defender link) The calorifier got moved from the forepeak cabin for two reasons, to make room for the thruster tunnel and because the tank is too far away from the engine for primary pipes. Its legacy however is a three core heat ressistant 2.5mm cross section wire the length of the boat. I'm steering now towards using these for charge purposes and look at the B2B idea suggested from Main Sail.
And Marc B, enough said!, I know what you're thinking, along with most members of my club too. Trouble is, although the boat grips well under way with its 6 foot plus keel, it's under a very slightly wetted hull area. In fact we are only just able to find a position half the diameter of the tunnel (3 inches)under the WL. The boat has a will in cross winds and at my age and health, the warps and line method is now prohibitive..Buttons for me these days..
I'll leave the windlass alone.
Thanks to all for the interest you've shown.
I wish you all good weather.
Main Sail asked for more info. 12v thruster, 12v windlass, 12v house system.
I'm warming to the B2B system you allude to and have a suspicion Sterling Power may have orriginated in the UK (Well, Scotland) My experience with Sterling has been positive: I remember a conversation when I was advised to throw my expensive Gel batteries over board and invest in a bank of cheap truck batteries that could be 'cooked'. The boat now has a Sterling management system that works well.
I take the point about breakers. The windlass is protected 100Amps. The Vetus 55Kgf thruster 3-4KW, consuption 350Amps, main fuse 250Amps, Battery switch 250Amps.
Petersea, Yes we have shorepower available 240V UK (sorry, couldn't open the defender link) The calorifier got moved from the forepeak cabin for two reasons, to make room for the thruster tunnel and because the tank is too far away from the engine for primary pipes. Its legacy however is a three core heat ressistant 2.5mm cross section wire the length of the boat. I'm steering now towards using these for charge purposes and look at the B2B idea suggested from Main Sail.
And Marc B, enough said!, I know what you're thinking, along with most members of my club too. Trouble is, although the boat grips well under way with its 6 foot plus keel, it's under a very slightly wetted hull area. In fact we are only just able to find a position half the diameter of the tunnel (3 inches)under the WL. The boat has a will in cross winds and at my age and health, the warps and line method is now prohibitive..Buttons for me these days..
I'll leave the windlass alone.
Thanks to all for the interest you've shown.
I wish you all good weather.
I have a 20 Amp Pro Mariner Battery Charger. It is completely sealed (waterproof) and has maintained my two batteries for five years now. they even make a triple output unit. extension cables are also available from ProMariner. check them out
papillondenuit, I didn't mean you shouldn't have it or need it, i didn't think one would fit. If I could have one, I would too as I get blown around backing in.
Come to find out much of that is marketing BS and people have bought it. Some of these device bring the start battery to 13.3V then switch to the house bank until it comes to 13.3V then they get combined.And they're still charging their reserve (start) banks first, before the house bank.
Limeys...
NO START BATTERY "charges first" in the few seconds it takes to bring the voltage to 13.3V.. It mostly marketing..
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