Looking for info on the best replacement reversible prop for my Oceanis 373. I'm pretty good at handling the original with prop walk but my partner struggles and has become afraid of it. Can anyone offer opinions?
Best reversible prop?
- Thread starter Sjvaun
- Start date
I can't offer much in the way of comparison because my B361 is my first non-outboard sailboat, but it came with an Autoprop. It backs wonderfully. In fact that's how I dock, stern first; and the way my boat backs up makes it rather easy.
Without inciting 'prop wars' as a rule feathering props offer the best reverse functionality (over folding or fixed). Simply because most offer the same blade configuration in forward and reverse.
We have a maxprop and it does well forward and reverse. You'll also gain 1/2 KT + under sail. Everyone in our harbor seems to swear allegiance to the particular feathering prop they have - so you'll get a lot of different opinions. FYI on my previous boat a B 381 For a short time I had a geared folding prop - didn't work well in forward or reverse + I had a lot of vibration. Changed to a 3 blade featherer
My kiwi had a lot more reverse power than the 3 blade fixed when it worked.
Actual blade pitch is set higher in reverse to hell make up for lower transmission gearing in reverse.
The kiwi is in the toolbox now since it stopped going into reverse again last year. Cleaning and greasing gets you a little under a year service in silty river water. I suspect tying up stern to the current desnt help although I switch it around through the winter which is when the river is siltiest.
I miss that extra .5 to .7 knots when sailing with the kiwi.
I will probably swap in a few weeks when the water temp is above 65, then try to get it swapped back again in september.
Neighbor swears by his maxi that gets serviced about once a decade.
Haulouts to swap props or lube the kiwi each year could help pay for maxi.
Actual blade pitch is set higher in reverse to hell make up for lower transmission gearing in reverse.
The kiwi is in the toolbox now since it stopped going into reverse again last year. Cleaning and greasing gets you a little under a year service in silty river water. I suspect tying up stern to the current desnt help although I switch it around through the winter which is when the river is siltiest.
I miss that extra .5 to .7 knots when sailing with the kiwi.
I will probably swap in a few weeks when the water temp is above 65, then try to get it swapped back again in september.
Neighbor swears by his maxi that gets serviced about once a decade.
Haulouts to swap props or lube the kiwi each year could help pay for maxi.
Autoprop
I'm a fan of the Autoprop. It's foolproof. As a feathering prop, it doesn't have to "open" when you go in reverse from sailing. Centrifugal force will always reverse the blades. You'll get faster sailing speeds, and more efficient motoring
I'm a fan of the Autoprop. It's foolproof. As a feathering prop, it doesn't have to "open" when you go in reverse from sailing. Centrifugal force will always reverse the blades. You'll get faster sailing speeds, and more efficient motoring
Autoprop is the most efficient but it requires ALOT of out of water maintenance. It has three sealed bearings that must be pumped with special grease from their grease fittings or the bearings will wear out.
Lee
Lee
There is no reason to haul out for any of the reasons you stated. They can all be done easily underwater by a properly equipped, knowledgable diver.
I put on a Gori folding prop simply because I got it for a good price. I have to agree that there is a vibration issue. I can live with it though simply because my motoring is usually only to get out of the channel and into the lake. I have learned to work with the prop walk. My reason for the folding prop was Yanmar documentation recommended not locking in gear while sailing and I hated the constant rotational noise of the freewheeling prop. Logic seems to favor any prop with 3 blades and folding or feathering ability. Pocket depth favors whatever fits your budget.
As a side bar to this conversation, I guess I don't understand why there are comments about not hauling out at least once annually since those of us in the north have to haul out because the water gets really hard for about five months. I have seen saltwater boats come out of the water with bottoms that look like a laboratory experiment even supposed regular cleaning by a diver.
As a side bar to this conversation, I guess I don't understand why there are comments about not hauling out at least once annually since those of us in the north have to haul out because the water gets really hard for about five months. I have seen saltwater boats come out of the water with bottoms that look like a laboratory experiment even supposed regular cleaning by a diver.
There are comments of this kind because most of the sailors in this country do not have to haul for winter. Most boats that live in the water in this country only haul every two or three years. Further, it is a common misconception that a boat must come out of the water to have prop work done, when in reality this is almost never the case. There is usually no reason to haul a boat to remove, install or maintain any prop- be it fixed, feathering or folding.
A very disengenous remark. Is it your position that hiring a hull cleaner is a waste of money because you once saw a boat come out of the water with a dirty bottom, despite it allegedly having had regular dive service? Even if true, is it possible that you have no clue how old the bottom paint was or what condition it was in or how much time had elapsed since it had been cleaned by the diver?
Of course all that is possible, even probable. Yet that didn't preclude you from taking a swipe at an entire segment of the boat maintenance community.
It's well known that any Beneteau that has this solid 'skeg' style prop shaft cover/ bracket will vibrate with any 2-blade prop. A 3-blade sorts that out.
Thanks for the input. I decided to go with the Maxprop 3 blade classic, feathering prop.
As for haul out and divers, I hire a diver once a quarter to clean the bottom and inspect the prop and thru-hulls. He does a fantastic job. It is my understanding that Maxprop 3 blade easy can be installed in the water. It costs another $400 or so.
I will be doing a haul out for this prop change only because I need to do some extra work.
Regards to all!
As for haul out and divers, I hire a diver once a quarter to clean the bottom and inspect the prop and thru-hulls. He does a fantastic job. It is my understanding that Maxprop 3 blade easy can be installed in the water. It costs another $400 or so.
I will be doing a haul out for this prop change only because I need to do some extra work.
Regards to all!
I understand that you have additional reasons to haul, but know that any Max Prop can be installed underwater, including your 3-Blade Classic.
Wow! Somebody got up on the wrong side of the bed this morning...
I just never understood the logic behind leaving a boat in the water for more than a year between haul outs.
In California for instance, we sail all year long. In addition, regular hull cleanings are necessary, usually 4-15 times per year, depending upon where the boat lives. Most owners do not feel it necessary to haul out simply to look at the bottom when they are already receiving regular reports about it. Your obvious hard-on for hull cleaners notwithstanding.
I cannot even imagine attempting locate a shaft key, see and position MaxProp gear and blade characters while swinging below a boat in murky water with a handful of $3,500 prop parts. And the thought of finding the dropped bits in bottom mud would be a real joy. These are individually machined devices, not Eli Whitney stuff. Does this service come with full replacement insurance?
If you were to call the Max Prop distributor (PYI) and ask about in-water installation, they not only would tell you that it is done all the time but they would recommend a diver in your area qualified to do it.
Just because the task seems daunting to you doesn't mean it can't (or shouldn't) be done.
Can it be changed in the water sure it can. Would I do it - nope.
Geeez come on - you're going to spend 3500 for a prop and not spend the 200-300 to haul the boat? When you haul out you can checkout the bottom, touch up anti fouling, clean the speedo, check the zinc on the bow thruster, etc etc.
Geeez come on - you're going to spend 3500 for a prop and not spend the 200-300 to haul the boat? When you haul out you can checkout the bottom, touch up anti fouling, clean the speedo, check the zinc on the bow thruster, etc etc.
From a personal standpoint, I'm not here to make the install cheaper than the yard. I'm selling the convenience of not having to take the boat to the boatyard to have the work done. Hell, you don't even have to be at the boat when I do the install if you don't want to be. I'm also selling expertise. I guarantee I have installed more Max Props than the kid in the boatyard. Or the boat owner, for that matter. I have installed many dozens of Max Props and have a 100% success rate. Plus, when my install is finished, I'm going to wait on the dock while you take the boat out for a test putt to make sure the prop is pitched correctly and working properly and that you are satisfied. Something wrong? I'm getting back into the water to make it right. If you or the yard worker makes a mistake in pitching your prop, are they going haul the boat again to fix it for free? Are they even going to be able to fit you in again that day? Who knows?
So you can haul the boat for this kind of thing if you want and that's fine. But don't say that there's no advantage in having an experienced diver do it at your slip while you enjoy a refreshing beverage in the cockpit.
[But don't say that there's no advantage in having an experienced diver do it at your slip while you enjoy a refreshing beverage in the cockpit.)
You might want to reread my post I didn't say there was no advantage to doing it at the dock. What I did present is an alternative view to doing it at the dock. Obviously you have a dive business that does prop and bottom work and are promoting that approach.
We have an excellent marina with many qualified mechanics that do prop work all of the time. Given the choice between doing it in the water and a haul out I'd go with the haul out.
You might want to be a little less self serving in your posts.
You might want to reread my post I didn't say there was no advantage to doing it at the dock. What I did present is an alternative view to doing it at the dock. Obviously you have a dive business that does prop and bottom work and are promoting that approach.
We have an excellent marina with many qualified mechanics that do prop work all of the time. Given the choice between doing it in the water and a haul out I'd go with the haul out.
You might want to be a little less self serving in your posts.
When it is inferred that feathering prop installations must be done on the hard, I rebutted that, no, that is not the case. When that is met with a chorus of, "That's crazy talk! It can't be done!" I merely posted my personal knowledge of how it can be, and is done underwater all the time. Of course that draws the cry of, "You're using the forum to promote your business!" Jeezus, you can't win with some people.
I am not here promoting anything. I am here as someone who can share some expertise in a particular area of boat maintenance.