I have never done a bottom job before and was wondering what the best paint to use for heavy growth and/or tropical climates was. I know many use Trinidad. On westmarine.com trinadad was going for about $45 a gallon. But then I saw Interlux Ultra-Kote selling for $140 a gallon. I dont mind spending the extra money but could the Ultra-Kote be that much better? Has anyone tried the Ultra-Kote? thanks.... Ted
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Matt Blender
Best Bottom Paint
I'm afraid the West Marine site was a little misleading. The price of $45 is for a quart, not a gallon, although I think they show a gallon can. Shame on them. The gallon price is $164.99. But that aside, the Pettit is very good in heavy fouling situations. My boat is on the Georgia coast and Trinidad is used a lot and does very well for up to two years with two coats. Definitely use the SR variety. Matt
I'm afraid the West Marine site was a little misleading. The price of $45 is for a quart, not a gallon, although I think they show a gallon can. Shame on them. The gallon price is $164.99. But that aside, the Pettit is very good in heavy fouling situations. My boat is on the Georgia coast and Trinidad is used a lot and does very well for up to two years with two coats. Definitely use the SR variety. Matt
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
What do you have now?
Ted - What's on the boat now? Before you pick anything you probably need to have someone look at the boat and tell you what type of paint you have. Most modified epoxy paints are compatible but it would be unfortunate if you have a sloughing paint or a silicone based paint and didn't know it. Apart from that you want to find the highest cuprous oxide content you can - denotes the strongest paint. Slime resistant varriants are a good choice. I would be looking for any ablative paint with decent copper percentages. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Ted - What's on the boat now? Before you pick anything you probably need to have someone look at the boat and tell you what type of paint you have. Most modified epoxy paints are compatible but it would be unfortunate if you have a sloughing paint or a silicone based paint and didn't know it. Apart from that you want to find the highest cuprous oxide content you can - denotes the strongest paint. Slime resistant varriants are a good choice. I would be looking for any ablative paint with decent copper percentages. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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ted
Justin, The previous owner had Trinidad on it.
Most likely I'll stick with the Trinidad. I just want to see if anyone had tried the Ultra-kote. Thanks guys for the info... Ted
Most likely I'll stick with the Trinidad. I just want to see if anyone had tried the Ultra-kote. Thanks guys for the info... Ted
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Bob Howie
Interlux...Third Generation
I just hauled my 78h30 to have some strut and shaft repair done -- damn crab traps! I put Interlux Ultra on mine; it was about $120/gal. 2 coats. Looks great; no blisters, no need to smear on another coat while I had it out of water. Will probably do bottom again next September...after the season at which time it will be a solid 27 months. I'm a 3rd generation salt-water boater and Interlux has always been in the family and I think I'll stick with it. Not that others aren't as good, I just prefer Interlux for the job its done me all these years and Ultra is my bottom point of choice.
I just hauled my 78h30 to have some strut and shaft repair done -- damn crab traps! I put Interlux Ultra on mine; it was about $120/gal. 2 coats. Looks great; no blisters, no need to smear on another coat while I had it out of water. Will probably do bottom again next September...after the season at which time it will be a solid 27 months. I'm a 3rd generation salt-water boater and Interlux has always been in the family and I think I'll stick with it. Not that others aren't as good, I just prefer Interlux for the job its done me all these years and Ultra is my bottom point of choice.
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Bob
Check out CopperPoxy
It's probably the most expensive of all - last time I checked, it was $275/gal. The manufacturer claims it will last 10 years, and I don't doubt it, but my experience with it has been freshwater only. It sets up HARD - and is a bear to sand real smooth. But if you don't have to paint the boat again for 10 years, only burnish it with Scotchguard, then the real cost looks pretty good compared to annual or semi-annual paintings.
It's probably the most expensive of all - last time I checked, it was $275/gal. The manufacturer claims it will last 10 years, and I don't doubt it, but my experience with it has been freshwater only. It sets up HARD - and is a bear to sand real smooth. But if you don't have to paint the boat again for 10 years, only burnish it with Scotchguard, then the real cost looks pretty good compared to annual or semi-annual paintings.
Then there's copper foil
The February 2003 issue of Sail magazine has an article about self-adhesive copper foil antifouling. The projected life is 10 years. What will they think of next? Peter H23 "Raven"
The February 2003 issue of Sail magazine has an article about self-adhesive copper foil antifouling. The projected life is 10 years. What will they think of next? Peter H23 "Raven"
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Rick Webb
I'm Too Late with my Million Dollar Idea, Again
We have started using something similar to contact paper on aircraft in lieu of paint. Not everywhere but in areas where the paint wears away quickly like the leading edges. I was thinking why not for boats too beats the hell out of sanding and none of that pesky hazardous waste. Quick too the sheets are precut so you peel off the old one stick the new one on and away you go that quick. My idea was to make them so it would go on under water and you don't even need to pull your boat out of the water, cool huh?
We have started using something similar to contact paper on aircraft in lieu of paint. Not everywhere but in areas where the paint wears away quickly like the leading edges. I was thinking why not for boats too beats the hell out of sanding and none of that pesky hazardous waste. Quick too the sheets are precut so you peel off the old one stick the new one on and away you go that quick. My idea was to make them so it would go on under water and you don't even need to pull your boat out of the water, cool huh?
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Dale I
Compatibility with a 'mystery' bottom?
Ok, so I've got this cored hull, ('78 C&C 34),...been on the hard since '98...bought it at auction and have NO idea what the hard, red, auto-primer-looking bottom paint is. I've read the archives regarding the use of epoxy barrier coats and have decided against that... Is there any method to determine compatibility for a new finish? I am leaning toward the ablative type given the critters, slime and brackish water of the St. Johns river here in Jacksonville, FL. Any recommendations for a primer?...or just sand it, slap on two coats, and splash it for the season.
Ok, so I've got this cored hull, ('78 C&C 34),...been on the hard since '98...bought it at auction and have NO idea what the hard, red, auto-primer-looking bottom paint is. I've read the archives regarding the use of epoxy barrier coats and have decided against that... Is there any method to determine compatibility for a new finish? I am leaning toward the ablative type given the critters, slime and brackish water of the St. Johns river here in Jacksonville, FL. Any recommendations for a primer?...or just sand it, slap on two coats, and splash it for the season.
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