Best book for structural fiberglass repair?

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Oct 1, 2011
188
Hunter 42 Passage Huron, OH
Hi everyone. As many know, we are restoring and refitting a 1984 H34. I do have a couple cracks in the transverse stiffener and have a very good plan for attacking the problem.

HOWEVER, in the quest for constant knowledge and the most accurate solution, I would like to review my repair thoughts against others. Considering that, Don Casey came to mind. I found this book..
http://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848
Is this best BEST choice with regard to structural repairs? Additionally, I am using West System materials.
If anyone thinks this is the best book available, OR has other links that will be helpful, please post them. Thanks to all of you in advance...
Brian
 
Sep 6, 2011
435
Hey Brian I have both This Old Boat and Sailboat Maintenance. They say much of the same things but prefer This Old Boat for reference, your library will probably have a copy. I check out books there before investing in them. There are many schools of thought. Nigel Calder is another good author but I haven't read much on fiberglass repair from him.

The two books I suggest to any boat owner are This Old Boat (Don Casey) and Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual (Nigel Calder). Both are very nice to have when something pops up.

On a side note I saved significantly by buying used books from Amazon. I got quite a few new condition books for about 30% of the new price. I was a little reluctant to try this but glad I did. SC
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Brian, did I give you the West System booklets? I have been doing glass work the last few days on my locker lid.
 
May 31, 2007
763
Hunter 37 cutter Blind River
Post some photos of the damaged area. The more experience I have in boat repair, the less I like epoxy as a resin. In certain applications it is the only way to go but for most boat repairs it is not necessary and is slow to work with, harder to control and finish and is very toxic. Done properly, repairs with poly will be stronger than the original and will have as good an adhesive strength as the underlying material.
 
Oct 1, 2011
188
Hunter 42 Passage Huron, OH
Ed, Yes, I have the West System book, Do you need it back for the locker repairs? Let me know...

Sailcruiser and Wetass, those are the books I am considering... I did also pour over the West System materials as well.

Sandpiper, While I did give consideration to polyester resin, I am really leaning towards West System Epoxy. It is the transverse stiffener that goes from port to starboard inside the boat (The pan or liner as it is called ) There is keel weight in this area and strength as well as peace of mind are my concern. I also have a crack in the foward transverse stiffener in the shower area. With the keel weighing 5000 pounds, I just want to make sure that it stays in its place with all of the lateral motion when heeling over. Even though it is a bit more cash, I am pretty sold on West System.
 

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Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Not needing them Brian. Already an expert, remember? :) Just don't know if there is any more to know than what is there. Have you studied the differences that Bill(sandpiper) alludes to. Not sure that anything could be stronger than West System properly applied. But certainly worth investigating. You were going to use cloth in the repair as I recall.
 
Oct 1, 2011
188
Hunter 42 Passage Huron, OH
Ed, I was told by Hunter that poly would be fine, but again you know I am really concerned about strength. Truth be known, the more I study the boat, both inside an out, I have the sneaking suspicion that when the were placing her in the cradle, that a strap broke and it was dropped a bit. When I was refinishing the hull, you know she was badly oxidized. Well, where the strap was behind the keel and all the way up the hull, you can see where the oxidation was NOT there and basically like the hull had been "Rug Burned" ... like the strap broke at the top, and was pulled under the boat with high tension.... know what I mean.... ? I really feel this is the "Real" cause of the damage. Won't ever know for sure, but I do know I want as much strength as I can get in those transverse stiffeners now. Yes, using 1.5 oz mat and 24 oz woven roving. I was told by a few people that this would do the trick. As far as the books, was just looking for as much info as I could get on "structural" type repairs.... just to make sure I have my bases covered.
 

wetass

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Mar 9, 2011
190
CS 36T Seattle
Ed, I was told by Hunter that poly would be fine, but again you know I am really concerned about strength. Truth be known, the more I study the boat, both inside an out, I have the sneaking suspicion that when the were placing her in the cradle, that a strap broke and it was dropped a bit. When I was refinishing the hull, you know she was badly oxidized. Well, where the strap was behind the keel and all the way up the hull, you can see where the oxidation was NOT there and basically like the hull had been "Rug Burned" ... like the strap broke at the top, and was pulled under the boat with high tension.... know what I mean.... ? I really feel this is the "Real" cause of the damage. Won't ever know for sure, but I do know I want as much strength as I can get in those transverse stiffeners now. Yes, using 1.5 oz mat and 24 oz woven roving. I was told by a few people that this would do the trick. As far as the books, was just looking for as much info as I could get on "structural" type repairs.... just to make sure I have my bases covered.
You may want to consider 1708 rather then 1.5oz / 24oz layup - You may find that working with small pieces of 24oz roving is kind of a pain. it will be easier to put down and can be used with Epoxy or Polyester - By the way, dont forget about Vinylester - Works as easy as polyester, but is significantly stronger (not as strong as Epoxy, but plenty strong for secondary bonds).
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Brian...

any and all of Casey and Calder's books should be in your library. Lots of winter reading!
 
Apr 15, 2009
302
C&C 30 Annapolis
Both poly and epoxy are pretty strong when used correctly. My understand is that epoxy is preferred for repairs since it makes a stronger bond with cured polyester than polyester itself does. It's also a little easier to work with. Downside would be cost.
 
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