Bent strut

[Val]

The yard pulled the prop so I could replace the stuffing box hose and found a badly scored shaft which was still binding in the strut after being disconnected from the engine. They plan on heating the strut to bend it back in line. They will also do an engine alignment after launching.Will be putting in a new stainless shaft.Heating the strut concerns me a little, seems like it might weaken it.Anyone have this type of thing done before?Thanks

 

[Ed A]

Sometimes it can work,

But it will be difficult to get it straight. for the price of a strutt i would order one and replace it.

 

[dprior]

Replace the Strut

I have replaced the strut on my '84 H37C three times in the 20 years that I have had the boat. Twice it was because of electrolysis (?) and oce because of physical damage.I do not know where the new struts came from. The yard just replaced it so it can not be a very specific part. It did not require special research from Hunter.There is a series of articles in the archives regarding the reversal of the bolts for the strut so that it may be replaced from the bottom without a second person inside the boat holding the bolt heads. If you are going to keep the boat for many years this should be done as you will be replacing the strut again.Fair winds.Don

 

[Val]

Strut

Thanks for the reply. I'll check with the yard about replacing the strut instead of trying to bend it. I had read in the archives that the strut had to be custom made for the 37c's.I just last night stuffed myself into the stbd laz trying to loosen those strut bolt nuts, without success. Water heater is a big problem, unscrewed it and shoved it fwd a little.I am definitely having those bolts changed over for external access.Any ideas for loosening a frozen sink drain gate valve? liquid wrench and wd 40 have not helped. May try some heat on it this weekend. All other gates have now been replaced with ball valves. Thanks again

 

[Ed Schenck]

Sink valve.

Is there a problem with your sink gate valve. Like you I have replaced the other two gate valves. A seacock for the engine and ball valve for the head. I started on the sink valve but it is just too big and heavy duty. I don't know what I would replace it with. Do you know for certain that they make a ball valve that will fit? I am in fresh water and that valve still looks like new. I may just leave it. Unless you report that the changeout was no big deal that is.

 

[Val]

No gate valves

I don't know if the sink gate had a problem. The problem for me is that it is a gate valve and I don't want it on my boat. I want to know when they are open and closed.I replaced 3 other gates so far with ball valves, engine intake, head intake and the head out. Head sink intake already had a ball valve.The sink gate valve looks the same size as the one for the head out, in the port vberth area, this is an '85 model. I just replaced that one last night. Hardest part of that was getting the white sanitation hose off. Size is 1-1/2 inch. I would have preferred seacocks for all, but too many other things to do right now, I don't have time to make backing plates and I haven't worked with fiberglass much. Mast still needs stepping and sails and rigging need to be put back on. Thanks

 

[sam Lust20932]

New strut

A brand new bronze strur should be readily available from Dahmer marine in Keyport, NJ. The original supplier to Hunter. Mine for my 33 cost $250 complete with cutless bearing pressed in.Scrapr the paint off the side of your strut, you'll probably see Dahmer, Keyport, along with number like H-33 or even H-37. Gee, I wonder what they mean?

 

[Val]

Thanks

Thanks for the strut information, Sam.I managed to get the nuts off the 2 screws, using a long 9/16 socket, long extension and a universal joint, but that strut will not budge.Must have used 5200 to put it on.The screws are frozen and won't turn either.I tried banging on the end of 1 of the screws with the nut on without any luck.Any suggestions for how to get the strut off the hull without damaging the hull? Thanks

 

[ARCHANGEL]

not worth the hassle

I got a sheet line caught in my prop and bent the shaft and strut. I bought a new ss shaft but asked my mechanic to see if he could fix the strut. To make a frustrating story short it wasnt cheap and I didnt find out until I had gone through the grueling process of reinstalling it that while the strut was now straight the pitch (angle)had changed and now the strut will need to be shimmed down 1/2" If I want to use it. I dont and am now looking for a good source for a new one. If I find one Ill let you know and vice versa ok.RobNewport Mi

 

[Ed Schenck]

Wire saw?

Val, one of those wire saws might work. It might take a little gelcoat but that is easily repaired. The saw wire is so small it should cut the caulk between the strut base and hull easily. Not sure how well it will do on the stainless bolts. Might take some time and more than one blade. A hacksaw blade would work but is thicker and will remove more gelcoat.I hope I never have to take mine off. I think I also used 5200 last time I rebedded.

 

[Val]

Wire saw

Thanks, Ed. That 5200 is tough stuff.I've done all the time consuming stuff, remove the battery box, remove the bad water heater, remove the nuts from the strut scres, I think I'll see what the yard guys can do about removing the strut.Trying to contact Dahmer Marine for a new strut. Sounds like a waste of time and money to try and straighten the old one.Oh, by the way, got that sink gate valve off after applying a little heat. Turns out the gate was broken. All gates are now off the boat, I feel better.I have a rigging question. I just reinstalled my spreaders after painting the corroded tips in preparation to step the mast.The upper stay was wired to the spreader tip with monel wire, but I'm not sure how tight that wiring should be. I tried to get it tight, but the wire did not seem that strong. Should that wire hold the stay fixed at one spot, or is it alright for the stay to be able to move?Thanks

 

[Ed Schenck]

Spreader tip.

The 1979 Kenyon mast/spreaders did not firmly attach the wire to the spreader tip. Mine has a slot with a strip of stainless across it. Two small screws hold down the stainless strip which is about 3" long by 3/8" wide. The wire is free to slide in that slot. The spreaders will have a slight forward and upward slope. In other words the spreader should almost make equal angles on the upper shroud.

 

[Porter Claytor]

H33 Strut Removal

I Drilled the bolt heads off from below then punched them up out of the way. I cut as much 5200 from the seam with a thin knife as possible and started rocking side to side. Some work but not as bad as some other jobs. I have an air side angle grinder now and would use it in the future. Either way will work.

 

[Val]

Thanks for the info. I let the yard take the strut off. They drilled the heads off the screws also. I had already dug some 5200 out from the edges.I am about to order a strut from Dahmer, but need the number off the web. I guess there were 2 struts used on the 37c, with numbers 33 or 34.Price quoted was $380.35.The yard was going to try to align the bent strut and add glass at the base, but the strut was bent too much.Thanks.