Bent safety rail

[19thol]

Last fall when the hurricane came through St.Pete, it sucked all the water out of Tampa Bay and surrounding areas. When that happened my boat leaned over against one of the pilings, bending the rail on the starboard side of the transom. Anyone have any good ways to attempt to bend it back? It's bent about 2" at the top, in other words, the bottoms stayed put, but the top moved to port. I thought about a ratchet strap, but I'm afraid of putting too much load on the mounting points. Thanks in advance.

 

[Ron20324]

A stainless fabricator would have a press to TRY to straighten it. Or a muffler shop. It would probably be cheaper to get a new one (if it's a stanchion), but I see you said "rail".

 

[dlochner]

A photo would help.

Is the metal creased or just have a gentle curve to it?

 

[BlowMeAway]

The most prolific thread we’ve been reading regarding Hurricane damage and super-human restoration has been posted by @B757Captain. I recall reading a segment on his efforts to repair a damaged stern rail. I believe he is currently out of the country, but perhaps a PM to Mark may be a good start for your bent rail project.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...e-from-hurricane-matthew.182553/#post-1340934

 

[jssailem]

@19thol I know your pain. I am currently having damage repair on my rails. We have a local company in Everett. Railmakers produces SS rails for all sorts of marine and non marine purposes. They are very reasonable and they attempt to repair first then replace. If it is a bend that will not weaken the SS on reverse bend they will try. In my instance the first look was to rebend the damaged part straighten the stern pulpit upto $150. When they got it off the boat discovered the damage impacted the hole of the pulpit. Repair would be 7-800. Whole new pulpit with added corner seats out of 1” would be 1100. I opted for the upgrade. Now I’m praying they get it done within the same statchion locations so I don’t have to drill new holes in the deck.

Check your local area. There is likely to be someone in the area who can give you a quote or even advise.

 

[Gunni]

Don’t get lazy, remove the bent rail portion and work on it off the boat. Damaged fiberglass and leaky decks are the wages of doing this while mounted. You can make jigs and mounts on easily replaced wooden framing in your shop. Some rigging shops offer repair service.

 

[gettinthere]

A photo would help.

Is the metal creased or just have a gentle curve to it?

This.
If there is a sharp crease, cut and reweld. A good welder can make it seamless.

 

[19thol]

no creases, just pushed to the side, didn't really notice it at first.

 

[dlochner]

no creases, just pushed to the side, didn't really notice it at first.

That's good news as it increases the probability of being able to straighten it.

Like Gunni said, take the pushpit off the boat to work on it. Less chance of damaging the boat and it needed to be rebedded anyway.

 

[Blitz]

I have a slightly bent bow pulpit (no crimps or creases) which I will try to straighten in the Spring when the boat is in the water.

I was told by two different shops NOT to remove the pulpit from the boat.

I was told be one eager shop that said they have done dozen of boats with their forklift or between to piles (in a slip) using multiple wide ratchet straps and moving slowly. The shop owner encouraged me to do it myself and said it wasn't too difficult. When complete, I would have to reseal all deck penetrations.

I was told by the other shop that if I did remove it from the boat, and they straightened it in their shop that it would never line up with my current deck penetrations and the feet would have to be re welded on or new holes be drilled into the deck.

 

[capta]

I would have to reseal all deck penetrations.

I was told by the other shop that if I did remove it from the boat, and they straightened it in their shop that it would never line up with my current deck penetrations and the feet would have to be re welded on or new holes be drilled into the deck.

1) And how exactly would you reseal all deck penetrations without removing the pulpit?
2) If a shop can't build you a pulpit, or repair one, to fit the existing holes, then they aren't very good or they are just plain lazy. Isn't doing exactly what the customer requires the very definition of 'custom' work?
We had 10" high SS bases built for our davits by a West Indian welder in Trinidad, and he got every single one of 36 ½" bolt holes (9 each top and bottom, 2 davits) exactly where they needed to be.
If you don't have capable welders where you live, perhaps you should call a West Indian welder and have him make what you need.

 

[dlochner]

I have a slightly bent bow pulpit (no crimps or creases) which I will try to straighten in the Spring when the boat is in the water.

I was told by two different shops NOT to remove the pulpit from the boat.

I was told be one eager shop that said they have done dozen of boats with their forklift or between to piles (in a slip) using multiple wide ratchet straps and moving slowly. The shop owner encouraged me to do it myself and said it wasn't too difficult. When complete, I would have to reseal all deck penetrations.

I was told by the other shop that if I did remove it from the boat, and they straightened it in their shop that it would never line up with my current deck penetrations and the feet would have to be re welded on or new holes be drilled into the deck.

If the pulpit is removed and straightened without the feet being attached to something secure, it may not fit when it is reinstalled.

After removal and before straightening the pulpit should be bolted to a work bench or some 2x lumber so that the legs are in the same position as they are on the boat. Then apply gentle pressure to bend the offending tube back into position.

 

[DougM]

When I had the misfortune of getting dismasted while on the hard last spring, the jib furler pushed the bow pulpit sideways about 4 inches or so. We tied a tow strap to the top rail and hooked a come-along betwen it and the marina forklift. Slowly applying pressure to the rail, we got it back to where it belonged. We had the advantage of a straight horizontal pull because the forklift was positioned above a retaining wall adjacent to the boat. Saved the insurance company a few bucks.

 

[Simon Sexton]

@19thol,

Good morning! Unfortunately, most safety rails are hollow and made of either aluminum, or thinly cut steel; thus, if you try to bend it back, it may seem to work, but may very well weaken the overall strength of the rail, or maybe even break it in the process. I tried this once on an Allmand 30 Tri-cabin, and the safety rail bent on the port side just above the transom; I was able to remove it, and took it home to work on it. I tried striking it with a rubber mallet and using a vice and pipe wrench to bend it back, but it was too stubborn. I eventually ended up putting a propane torch to it and super-heating it until it was hot enough to be malleable; when it got to that point, I was able to bend it back straight, but not even a month later, an overweight guest leaned against it and bent it right back to the way it had been before I mended it.

 

[jssailem]

overweight guest leaned against it and bent it right back

@Simon Sexton I think you may have identified the problem. You need to hang out with thinner people. Maybe an ad placed in the classifieds. “Guest needed, Only thin sensitive people need apply”

 

[Simon Sexton]

@Simon Sexton I think you may have identified the problem. You need to hang out with thinner people. Maybe an ad placed in the classifieds. “Guest needed, Only thin sensitive people need apply”

Indeed, that would seem appropriate ! We do, however, rarely have overweight guests aboard; this was a "special occasion".

 

[sailnoproblem]

I have a slightly bent bow pulpit (no crimps or creases) which I will try to straighten in the Spring when the boat is in the water.

I was told by two different shops NOT to remove the pulpit from the boat.

I was told be one eager shop that said they have done dozen of boats with their forklift or between to piles (in a slip) using multiple wide ratchet straps and moving slowly. The shop owner encouraged me to do it myself and said it wasn't too difficult. When complete, I would have to reseal all deck penetrations.

I was told by the other shop that if I did remove it from the boat, and they straightened it in their shop that it would never line up with my current deck penetrations and the feet would have to be re welded on or new holes be drilled into the deck.

In my younger days I was the plant manager/custom dept. of a company called Seabrite Stainless. We did a lot of custom sailboat pulpits, both bow and stern. We also did a large majority of power boats.
If you remove the pulpit to straighten it, it is unlikely the mounting holes will line up. Stainless has a lot of spring to it so you may have to force the mounting pads/flange/base to line the holes up.
You might try Lockwood boat works/Marina, I think they are in Morgan off of Rt. 35 and see if Paul is still there, I worked with him years ago, if he is he will steer you in the right direction.

 

[Blitz]

...
If you remove the pulpit to straighten it, it is unlikely the mounting holes will line up....
You might try Lockwood boat works/Marina, I think they are in Morgan off of Rt. 35 and see if Paul is still there, I worked with him years ago, if he is he will steer you in the right direction.

In my younger days I was the plant manager/custom dept. of a company called Seabrite Stainless. We did a lot of custom sailboat pulpits, both bow and stern. We also did a large majority of power boats.
If you remove the pulpit to straighten it, it is unlikely the mounting holes will line up. Stainless has a lot of spring to it so you may have to force the mounting pads/flange/base to line the holes up.
You might try Lockwood boat works/Marina, I think they are in Morgan off of Rt. 35 and see if Paul is still there, I worked with him years ago, if he is he will steer you in the right direction.

Yes, Lockwood was one of the shops that indicated that it most likely would not line up if I took it off the boat to them to repair without bolting it down in their shop to straighten exactly like it was bolted on the boat.

 

[Blitz]

@19thol,

Good morning! Unfortunately, most safety rails are hollow and made of either aluminum, or thinly cut steel; thus, if you try to bend it back, it may seem to work, but may very well weaken the overall strength of the rail, or maybe even break it in the process. I tried this once on an Allmand 30 Tri-cabin, and the safety rail bent on the port side just above the transom; I was able to remove it, and took it home to work on it. I tried striking it with a rubber mallet and using a vice and pipe wrench to bend it back, but it was too stubborn. I eventually ended up putting a propane torch to it and super-heating it until it was hot enough to be malleable; when it got to that point, I was able to bend it back straight, but not even a month later, an overweight guest leaned against it and bent it right back to the way it had been before I mended it.

I would think that the heat weakened the stainless.
Also, if you have your bow light wiring inside the tubes they would be toast - literally.