Bent rudder....I was wrong

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K

Kevin

I'm drove by the lake today to get a good look at my rudder problem from last weekend.

I was wrong, it's not bent...it's cracked. I think it's from docking the boat at this lake that has a good 4 to 6 foot change in water height due to the electric company's dam.

I'm usually good about docking it far enough on the dock, but last weekend it was stuck and I had to get in the water and "push" the boat out. It must have cracked the rudder.

Any suggestions? Since this is only the 2nd week I had it at that lake, I thought about breaking down and buying a "kick up" rudder that may help this situation in the future.

Ideas?

Kevin
 
M

Mike

That Ain't Good

Replacement rudders are expensive. Rudy at D&R Marine used to work at Oday and has the molds for a lot of these parts; he can make you a direct replacement Oday 23 rudder for $665. That doesn't include pintles or rudder headstock. IdaSailor makes a kick up rudder replacement for the Oday 23. It's $869. Check it out here:

http://www.idasailor.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=437

You might want to try and fix what you have. Since you are asking for advice, I suspect that you are not an expert fiberglass repairman; me neither. I would try and find someone who is ask them if it's fixable. If the core material is cracked (which is what it sounds like since the entire blade is bent), I suspect it's a goner.
 
K

Kevin

it's a goner

I sucked it up and ordered the kick up rudder from Idasailor. It will ship in 6-8 business days.

If I continue to sail in this lake with 4-6 foot water level changes, I may as well get the kick up and be safe. (Just don't tell my wife!) I moor the boat in 25' water, but tend to keep it at the dock when we are using it.

I took that photo of the rudder today. I probably could have laid it across my knee and finished the break.

I've got a nice semi-new curved tiller I bought from Rudy 4 weeks ago....if anybody wants to buy it!?!!? ;)

Kevin
 
S

Shoaldrafter

I suspect it could have been

I suspect that it could have been repaired. It just takes time and work and epoxy and work.

Ed K
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R

r.w.landau

Kevin, that was a hard hit. That was alot of leverage on the transom...

Check the transom. It is probably spidered aroung the gungeons if it was not reinforced.
I reinforce inside and out with about a 4 x 6 aluminum plate. The plate will funnel some of the load out from the gungeon itself. I have them inside and out because you can run aground backwards also.
The rudder can be repaired by the same method used elsewhere. If you hollow out the crack with enough area that some new fiberglass cloth can be laid in and so that it is big enough to be strong, it could be patched. Epoxy would be the thing to use to get a good secondary bond. West System would be fine. The slow hardener would be my choice. It will be a fairly thick layup ,I would do it all at once, that you don't want too much heat.
hope it not too bad!
r.w.landau
 
S

Shoaldrafter

repairing rudder

Follow R.W.'s advice and search the archives. The repair on a 23 or other similar boat would be the same. It can be done correctly, but it takes time and work and some of the correct tools. A good orbital sander is in order. During the current hot weather, epoxy will kick fast so work in small amounts and quickly. Up in Anderson, SC, Big Water marina has the skill to do this type repair. For you that would be about a two hour drive. See link.

Ed K
26
 
J

Joe

Kick-Up Rudder

Kevin,
I think that you made the right move by ordering the kick-up rudder. Hang on to that tiller that you bought from Rudy. You may be able to use it on this new rudder. Some of the O'Day rudder blades can't be repaired. I had two of them down my cellar for the longest while and didn't have the heart to throw them out. They were foam filled blades and they were impossible to repair. Rudy told my that O'Day even built the spade rudders for their larger boats the same way. I don't know why they ever did that. When you get your new rudder mounted you should always tie off the tiller so that it is centered with the blade up. You can get a piece of leather and sew it together around your tiller for a chafe guard so that the ropes don't dig into it. I wouldn't trust a tiller tender to hold the tiller during a fierce storm. You need to always be aware that the blade in the up position can swing into the outboard propeller. I don't know how many times my rudder blade accidentally got in contact with the prop.
Joe
 
K

Kevin Nichols

thanks

Thanks for all the advice. I'm going back down to the boat Sunday afternoon and will check the transom for any spidering.

I've talked myself into keeping the kick up rudder on order. I'll keep the rudder and maybe think of getting it repaired in the winter.

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On another note, I sent that 4 stroke motor mount plate PDF to one of my clients. He is charging me $101 to build the plate. My 6hp Tohatsu is in my office (heaven help, if my wife finds out about it) and I ordered a garlich 71090 (9.5 inch vertical travel) and will try this project in a week or so!

Kevin
 
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