Hey Bob, thanks for weighing in on things NP. Is there some specific document available for the Pryde Beneteau A-sail set-up? I'm just sort of winging it with the tack pennant on the bow anchor roller and figure that there has to be some specific detailed instructions? - don't have a sprit. I also find that when gybing with a short crew, best procedure is to pull down the snuffer and re-attach the sheets for the new course. Otherwise we seem to end up with a twisted sail, and lots of salty comments.Thanks, Gunni
Gunni:
I've attached our 'how to guide' for cruising spinnakers for general info.
To answer your questions:
1. Normally you'll find a 1/4" hole on the port side of the anchor roller stock. This is where you can mount a block for the downhaul. If you do one with a becket, you can tie or shockcord it to the pulpit to keep it out of the anchors way.
2. Line can lead aft to the bow mooring cleat. (low tech) or aft, say along the stanchions to the cockpit for adjustment.
3. Adjusting the downhaul basically makes the sail fuller or flatter...the nice thing about ours is they are designed to fly up and away from the bow..so good visibility when sailing, but if you want to sail close, say in the low 50's in 6 knots of breeze, pull it down and the sail really becomes much more genoa like.
4. I think for the average sailor that setting them up INSIDE the foretriangle is much easier and ensures you don't run over the spinnaker or the lazy sheet when gybing. You 'cross' the spinnaker under the furled genoa on one tack or the other, but for inshore /day sailing I've never found it to be an issue. If you plan to offshore it and might have the sail up for hours or days, then outside would be best to alleviate any chance of chafe.
5. Dousing and gybing: Good idea in lots of breeze or when sailing with newbies.
6. Lastly, I like learning how to do this (or teaching how to do this) on very light air days with both main and jib furled...this allows everyone to see how the sail is set up and what happens when it gybes...so visually the 'dance' between helmsperson and trimmer is easier to understand.
Bob
Gunni:
I've attached our 'how to guide' for cruising spinnakers for general info.
To answer your questions:
1. Normally you'll find a 1/4" hole on the port side of the anchor roller stock. This is where you can mount a block for the downhaul. If you do one with a becket, you can tie or shockcord it to the pulpit to keep it out of the anchors way.
2. Line can lead aft to the bow mooring cleat. (low tech) or aft, say along the stanchions to the cockpit for adjustment.
3. Adjusting the downhaul basically makes the sail fuller or flatter...the nice thing about ours is they are designed to fly up and away from the bow..so good visibility when sailing, but if you want to sail close, say in the low 50's in 6 knots of breeze, pull it down and the sail really becomes much more genoa like.
4. I think for the average sailor that setting them up INSIDE the foretriangle is much easier and ensures you don't run over the spinnaker or the lazy sheet when gybing. You 'cross' the spinnaker under the furled genoa on one tack or the other, but for inshore /day sailing I've never found it to be an issue. If you plan to offshore it and might have the sail up for hours or days, then outside would be best to alleviate any chance of chafe.
5. Dousing and gybing: Good idea in lots of breeze or when sailing with newbies.
6. Lastly, I like learning how to do this (or teaching how to do this) on very light air days with both main and jib furled...this allows everyone to see how the sail is set up and what happens when it gybes...so visually the 'dance' between helmsperson and trimmer is easier to understand.
Bob
