Beneteau 361 cutlass bushing & shaft play

[suttonski]

Hi, I would like to find out if I can get a CUTLASS BUSHING 25X40X100 at a cheaper price than the $62 asked by Beneteau. I have replaced my cutlass bushing last year at the same time that I installed a 3 blade VariProfile propeller. During the summer I noticed a vibration that was not there with my fixed 3 blade prop. When the boat was haul out in November I noticed that I had some play in the cutlass bushing. With the blade in place I could push the blade-shaft assembly a little bit. I removed the propeller because VariProfile told me to ensure that the HUB was making a good contact with the shaft, at least 80% of the length of the hub. Once the propeller was removed I noticed that the shaft was now touching the upper part of the cutlass bushing and that I could move it down a bit, less than i could move it up with the propeller. There is no side play so i don't think that the shaft is bent otherwise there would play on the side as well. I suspect that I need to align the motor and the shaft. What do you think? Your input will be greatly appreciated. I have never done this type of alignment.
I will install a new cutlass bushing.
Thanks
Georges

 

[Lee Hadjiosif]

Hi, I would like to find out if I can get a CUTLASS BUSHING 25X40X100 at a cheaper price than the $62 asked by Beneteau. I have replaced my cutlass bushing last year at the same time that I installed a 3 blade VariProfile propeller. During the summer I noticed a vibration that was not there with my fixed 3 blade prop. When the boat was haul out in November I noticed that I had some play in the cutlass bushing. With the blade in place I could push the blade-shaft assembly a little bit. I removed the propeller because VariProfile told me to ensure that the HUB was making a good contact with the shaft, at least 80% of the length of the hub. Once the propeller was removed I noticed that the shaft was now touching the upper part of the cutlass bushing and that I could move it down a bit, less than i could move it up with the propeller. There is no side play so i don't think that the shaft is bent otherwise there would play on the side as well. I suspect that I need to align the motor and the shaft. What do you think? Your input will b e greatly appreciated. I have never done this type of alignment.
I will install a new cutlass bushing.
Thanks
Georges

Here is my recommendation. Leave the prop off, remove the rubber cutless bearing and sight the shaft going through the tube for alignment. Then tighten the bolts on the transmission/shaft coupling to zero clearance all around. If the shaft does not appear to be perfectly centerlined through the tube, then loosen the engine mounts and align the engine. You will have to have someone outside looking up the tube while you align it. Last time I did mine, I set up a video camera on a tripod behind the shaft and a tv display inside by me so that I could see instant results without yelling at my wife back and forth. You will get the best initial alignment this way and perfect mating of the flange. You will have to recheck the alignment after launch in case the hull deflected. Loosen the flange bolts again and push the two surfaces together and check with a feeler gauge to see if there's any space between the flanges. If it's above tolerance, (i don't remember the tolerance off hand and don't want to guess but it's in the manual) start aligning the engine again. When I did mine on my previous boat (hunter) lucked out and did not have to realign after launch and got rid of all vibration.

As for the price of the cutless bearing, you are not going to do better than the $62.00 from Beneteau. You can get it from a local dealer but it would be the same price. Good luck.
Lee

 

[suttonski]

Hi Lee, Thank you very much for the detail information and taking the time to reply to my post. I will follow your recommendation precisely and do this as soon as it gets warmer, probably beginning of April.

Thanks again and I hope I can return the help one day.
Georges

 

[Philip_Oceanis 361]

I have a fealing that there is always a very little play on a cutlass bearing. This year i dropped the rudder, removed the shaft and ensured it is not bend, install a new cutlass bearing, aligned and put everything back. There is a very very little play in the cutlass bearing. Cannot say how much, impossible to measure.
The trick my mechanic used to centre the shaft in its tube was, besides the normal cutlass bearing at the 'exit' that automatically centers the shaft down there was to intall another cutlass bearing where the volvo seal is installed. Therefore you have two points where the shaft is centered in its tube. Then he aligned the engine to the shaft and finally removed again the cutlass bearing inside (had to remove of course the shaft/gear box coipling) to install back the volvo seal. The boat is going back in the water on Tuesady and i am really looking forward to see if vibrations are gone (old cutlass bearing was shot, i have also replaced the front mounts, changed the prop with a 3 blade fix......).

 

[suttonski]

Hi Philip, Thanks for the info. Did you drop the rudder yourself? How difficult is it? Is the shaft difficult to remove? Someone told me to get my shaft checked but I was kind of nervous about this undertaking. How long did it take?
Regards,
Georges

 

[Lee Hadjiosif]

Hi Philip, Thanks for the info. Did you drop the rudder yourself? How difficult is it? Is the shaft difficult to remove? Someone told me to get my shaft checked but I was kind of nervous about this undertaking. How long did it take?
Regards,
Georges

Not sure about the 361 but on my 381 I was able to remove the shaft without dropping the rudder. If you turn the rudder a certain angle, the shaft will bypass it.

 

[Philip_Oceanis 361]

Hi Philip, Thanks for the info. Did you drop the rudder yourself? How difficult is it? Is the shaft difficult to remove? Someone told me to get my shaft checked but I was kind of nervous about this undertaking. How long did it take?
Regards,
Georges

Yes i dropped it myself and completely alone!. I had to remove first the below deck autopilot, loosen the quadrant cables,remove the four bolts to break loose the quadrant,remove the large pin going through the ring that sits above the rudder tube and also remove another pin you will see only when you remove the quadrant. It is a difficult job only because of the very tight space ( i am quite tall and was bent to five to do it!!!). I had to spend a few hours in the back lazarette as well as through the opening of the port rear cabin. Of course you need to place something below the rudder before removing the pins otherwise it will simply drop.
To remove the shaft you need to remove the coupling or whatever is called that connects it with the gear box. If you have never removed the nut on the shaft, coupling from the key etc on that part of the shaft you may find it difficult. For me it wasn't as i replaced the volvo seal 5 years ago.