Beneteau 343 ZInc Location

[Radiance]

Hi
I have a 2005 Beneteau 343. I'm a little confused about the location that the anode cap on the prop is attached. I have seen different photos. I bought the anode cap for the prop and the collar for the shaft. Thanks for your help.

 

[kappykaplan]

Please post a photo or two so we can better help you. What kind of propellor does the boat have?

 

[Davidasailor26]

If you have a fixed prop the anode replacement is as simple as removing the screw holding the old one onto the hub and screwing the new one on. If you’re using a collar make sure there’s enough space for water for between the collar and cutless bearing.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Hi
I'm a little confused about the location that the anode cap on the prop is attached.

not knowing what prop you have, imagine how confused we are.

 

[BigEasy]

Welcome to SBO; you have come to the right place for "priceless" information, and congratulations on acquiring your new boat.

I use a 25mm collar on the shaft and supplement with a 6 lb hanging anode as well. Have a folding prop so no zinc on the prop: however, my understanding is the small anode on the standard 3 blade prop is insufficient unless you have a very short sailing season.

I have owned my 343 for 11 years and have no regrets. Don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions and/or problems.

 

[Radiance]

I bought the 25MM collar and the anode..right now my boat doesn't have any zincs. so just replacing it isn't an option. I have fixed 3 blade prop. I found this photo on a forum but it's not clear to me where the anode goes

 

[Davidasailor26]

The collar should go on point A, as close to the prop as possible.

 

[BigEasy]

I found this photo on a forum but it's not clear to me where the anode goes

Agree with @Davidasailor26 advice. You want to place the collar zinc as close as possible to the prop. If you were to place the zinc too close to the cutlass bearing (black piece protruding from the stainless shaft log), the cutlass bearing would be damaged by the rotating collar zinc & water flow from inside the shaft log & cutlass bearing would be restricted that may cause damage. Be aware that sea water is injected into the forward end of the shaft tube by way of a dedicated thru hull fitting, valve assembly, hose, & nipple, just aft of the rubber Volvo shaft seal. Good idea to remove the bronze nipple & inspect it on haulouts. The nipple is prone to corrosion & breakage with resultant flooding. Definitely want to keep that valve closed when not sailing/motoring.

 

[Radiance]

thank you for your replies .so every time I replace the zinc on the shaft I have to remove the prop...crazy
also..the cap anode goes aft of the prop I imagine

 

[Davidasailor26]

You should not need to remove the prop. The collar should split into two halves. Just clean up the shaft so it’s got a nice mating surface, put the halves on the shaft, then screw them together.

The cap does go aft of the prop. There should be a bolt that goes through it into the hub to hold it in place.

 

[BigEasy]

.so every time I replace the zinc on the shaft I have to remove the prop...crazy
also..the cap anode goes aft of the prop I imagine

Shouldn’t have to remove the prop to replace the collar/shaft zinc; the zinc is split in half to allow insertion/removal without removing the prop. Yes, the cap zinc screws on the aft end of the prop shaft.

 

[Radiance]

Thank you I haven’t opened the box with my new zincs . That’s great news that they open up . Boatzincs.com was really great to deal with purchasing the zincs

 

[BigEasy]

. Boatzincs.com was really great to deal with purchasing the zincs

Yes, they are quite easy to install. Diver usually replaces mine couple times a year when cleaning bottom. I deal with boat zincs also & my drop zinc was sourced from them.