I have a Beneteau 331 with an AlderBarbour refrigeration unit. The batteries can't seem to keep up in the summer ( fairly common complaint amoungst a lot of 331 owners) and I read on the B owners site about a booster with fan that helps keep the unit cooler and results in less battery drain. I looked at the Waeco site and it looks like there are two different units Cold and Super Cold machine. My manuals don't say which unit I have on my 331. Can you provide some assistance on which unit and ease of installation. I'm assuming the fan is somehow wired into the unit itself or do I need to go directly to the panel. Also, I can't seem to find a place to buy the unit. WM and BoatUS don't list it> thanks
- Status
Take a look and make some calls
The cold machine & super cold machine both have their names plastered on them. Both units also have a name plate & model number (look closly with a flashlight), and between the two, you should be able to figure out what you have. Any marine parts store will order what you want. All of the biggies have tole-free numbers to call and big catalogs from the manufacturers. Let your fingers do the walking.... Finally, is there anyway you can improve air flow to the unit in a passive way, like through a grill or even a hole to a larger space? That way you don't spend money on something that has to be installed (the booster is a fan, a housing to mount it to the cold machine, a piece of ducting and a grill and some wire. you still need to run the ducting amd mabe cut a hole somewhere) and it will consume some power. will you end up using less power? Don't know. Cheers!
The cold machine & super cold machine both have their names plastered on them. Both units also have a name plate & model number (look closly with a flashlight), and between the two, you should be able to figure out what you have. Any marine parts store will order what you want. All of the biggies have tole-free numbers to call and big catalogs from the manufacturers. Let your fingers do the walking.... Finally, is there anyway you can improve air flow to the unit in a passive way, like through a grill or even a hole to a larger space? That way you don't spend money on something that has to be installed (the booster is a fan, a housing to mount it to the cold machine, a piece of ducting and a grill and some wire. you still need to run the ducting amd mabe cut a hole somewhere) and it will consume some power. will you end up using less power? Don't know. Cheers!
Had the same problem on a BVI 331 charter...
in June 2001. Chartered a 381 in June 2002 with same company in the BVI's and noticed the same 331 was in the next slip. Base manager told me they upgraded the batteries and solved the problem. Later in the week, we met a couple in Anegada on the 331 and they had no problems with the refer killing the house battery, like we did. Call Tradewind Yacht Charters at 284-494-6892 and get Terrance on the phone and ask what they did to solve the problem. Hope this helps
in June 2001. Chartered a 381 in June 2002 with same company in the BVI's and noticed the same 331 was in the next slip. Base manager told me they upgraded the batteries and solved the problem. Later in the week, we met a couple in Anegada on the 331 and they had no problems with the refer killing the house battery, like we did. Call Tradewind Yacht Charters at 284-494-6892 and get Terrance on the phone and ask what they did to solve the problem. Hope this helps
Cold Machine Ventilation
Rich Your description was somewhat unclear, but it's either of two things you're trying to describe. One is an internal recirculating fan inside the fridge box itself. This is used to keep the cool air inside the box moving around. It is usually a little packaged fan run on two C or D cell batteries. I think Sears sells them, or you can get them in any camping store. The other one is a booster fan to provide air from somewhere in the boat TO the little square black fan that is already on the cold machine's own compressor baseplate. That's the black remote unit mounted somewhere on your boat (under a seat, lazzarrette, etc.) This houses the compressor itself, the condensing coil (for heat rejection) and its own little built in square black fan that blows air over the coil. Refrigerant is run in copper tubes from this unit to the icebox's evaporator (cooling) plate inside your fridge. If your compressor unit is in an area of the boat that isn't well ventilated, the heat that is rejected from the condensing coil just builds up and makes the unit run harder and harder and drains power. It absolutely needs to be well ventilated. It has nothing to do with the boat manufacturer, but rather it is a system all its own. Of course, if the boat manufacturer put it somewhere where it does not get air, they goofed, so what's new there? If you can't "open up" the area where the compressor is, then you'll need to get this booster fan arrangement, either from Adler Barbour or make one up on your own. All it does is blow cooler boat air into where the compressor and condensing coil are located. What you need is a Duct Kit, see: http://www.waecoadlerbarbour.com/catalog.pdf. It's their on line catalog, you can get there also from the related link below. You also need to investigate whether or not you have adequate house bank capacity in your batteries to take the 50 to 60 amp hours per day that the unit requires, unless you turn it off at night. Between having adequate battery capacity and keeping the compressor/condenser unit well ventilated, you should be able to fix your problem. The link is to Adler Barbour's cold machine. Search around there for some more information. The web is great if, as someone else said, you let your fingers do the walking. The people at Adler Barbour are also great, friendly and helpful. A simple phone call to Gary at Adler Barbour would help you out, too. Good luck, you may not have to call the islands, bet you'd rather BE there! Me, too
Rich Your description was somewhat unclear, but it's either of two things you're trying to describe. One is an internal recirculating fan inside the fridge box itself. This is used to keep the cool air inside the box moving around. It is usually a little packaged fan run on two C or D cell batteries. I think Sears sells them, or you can get them in any camping store. The other one is a booster fan to provide air from somewhere in the boat TO the little square black fan that is already on the cold machine's own compressor baseplate. That's the black remote unit mounted somewhere on your boat (under a seat, lazzarrette, etc.) This houses the compressor itself, the condensing coil (for heat rejection) and its own little built in square black fan that blows air over the coil. Refrigerant is run in copper tubes from this unit to the icebox's evaporator (cooling) plate inside your fridge. If your compressor unit is in an area of the boat that isn't well ventilated, the heat that is rejected from the condensing coil just builds up and makes the unit run harder and harder and drains power. It absolutely needs to be well ventilated. It has nothing to do with the boat manufacturer, but rather it is a system all its own. Of course, if the boat manufacturer put it somewhere where it does not get air, they goofed, so what's new there? If you can't "open up" the area where the compressor is, then you'll need to get this booster fan arrangement, either from Adler Barbour or make one up on your own. All it does is blow cooler boat air into where the compressor and condensing coil are located. What you need is a Duct Kit, see: http://www.waecoadlerbarbour.com/catalog.pdf. It's their on line catalog, you can get there also from the related link below. You also need to investigate whether or not you have adequate house bank capacity in your batteries to take the 50 to 60 amp hours per day that the unit requires, unless you turn it off at night. Between having adequate battery capacity and keeping the compressor/condenser unit well ventilated, you should be able to fix your problem. The link is to Adler Barbour's cold machine. Search around there for some more information. The web is great if, as someone else said, you let your fingers do the walking. The people at Adler Barbour are also great, friendly and helpful. A simple phone call to Gary at Adler Barbour would help you out, too. Good luck, you may not have to call the islands, bet you'd rather BE there! Me, too
Stu has it.....
Remember, when heat goes up, pressure goes up and then your compressor has to work harder. You absolutly must remove the heat the evaporator is sending to the condenser. I'm custom building a frigerator unit for my boat and the one most important thing is insulation. Boats come with crappy or less insulation. Most people expect a 12V refrig to operate like the old Amana at home... Ain't gonna happen. If ya like yer beer cold, ya gotta work for it! Insulate that box.. Ron/KA5HZV
Remember, when heat goes up, pressure goes up and then your compressor has to work harder. You absolutly must remove the heat the evaporator is sending to the condenser. I'm custom building a frigerator unit for my boat and the one most important thing is insulation. Boats come with crappy or less insulation. Most people expect a 12V refrig to operate like the old Amana at home... Ain't gonna happen. If ya like yer beer cold, ya gotta work for it! Insulate that box.. Ron/KA5HZV
Thanks
Lots of great suggestions. I'm sure it has a lot to do with ventilation and the battery capacity. Noticed I only have 2 27's and figure I need at least one 4d. That should help. Plus I definately need to get more air to the unit. There is a small vent under nav station and one under the galley sink but that can't possibly be enough. Thanks.
Lots of great suggestions. I'm sure it has a lot to do with ventilation and the battery capacity. Noticed I only have 2 27's and figure I need at least one 4d. That should help. Plus I definately need to get more air to the unit. There is a small vent under nav station and one under the galley sink but that can't possibly be enough. Thanks.
- Status