Bending rub rail around the corner

[Indysailor]

I'm wondering what strategies people have used for this. My boat is missing the rub rail around the transom and I want to install new (all the other rub rail is in very good shape and it won't be touched except to mate the old and new up). It will have to turn both stern corners and I'm trying to figure out how best to do it.

I have experimented with an old piece, which was pretty brittle. However, I did heat it and bend it around a 90 degree angle, but the problem I see is that the track won't maintain it's shape. My guess is that I probably had it too hot/uneven and so I'm thinking of doing this with a bucket of heated water instead so that the whole piece will be equally malleable.

Also, I'm sure the best time to do this is in July when it's warmer and there's no wind on the lake, but I really just can bring myself to pull the boat and miss an hour of floating for this job. So, I'll be doing it in about a month when the temperature is in the 60s, max. If that's a mistake, I'll resign myself to doing it next Summer. Or maybe I'll put a rub strake on each side and fashion a piece of teak for the transom.

Your thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!

 

[caguy]

I think if you slip an aluminum plate in the track at the corners it should maintain the track shape when you bend it. You will have to cut the plate to get it out afterward.

 

[Indysailor]

Thanks- I was thinking of sacrificing a piece of the black insert to do the same thing and was wondering how difficult it would be to get it back out.

 

[Joe11688]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OG_mrSy5xKU

 

[25yearslater]

Indy, is this what you are trying to do?

 

[Indysailor]

That's it- just need to install a piece on the transom and then bring it round both corners and forward about a foot.

Joe- I watched that video some time ago and thought maybe that rub rail was way more flexible than the stuff on my boat, but I may be wrong.

 

[25yearslater]

Yup, that's silly flexible they are using. Heat till flexible and make first bend. Hold till form is set. Remove from boat. Reheat top and bottom and with gloved hands squeeze down the top and bottom bulge. Check fit, adjust as necessary. Next and last. Insert an epoxy/resin spreader into insert slot and heat. Pry outward slightly to reform insert groove top then bottom. Screw into boat and do the other side initial bend then remove and do the same thing again. Cut ends to butt together caulk and mount, in goes the insert and you are done.

 

[25yearslater]

By the way Indy if you want a practice piece PM me with your address and I will send you some of my leftover stuff. You can practice scorching it and polishing out the scorch mark with 800, 1000 and 1500 emery. I had to in one spot.

 

[Joe11688]

That's it- just need to install a piece on the transom and then bring it round both corners and forward about a foot.

Joe- I watched that video some time ago and thought maybe that rub rail was way more flexible than the stuff on my boat, but I may be wrong.

I was just checking out the Aluminum rub rail on my boat. It looks to me like they started screwing it on on the Port side of the boat just under the port light and worked toward the stern and ended about three feet on the Starboard side.

I've never installed that stuff before and I'd probable be scratching my head trying to figure out the best way to make those bends come out right. I think that I would start by screwing on about three feet on one side and bring around to the other side at least a couple of feet. Then I would cut both sides to fit the existing rub rail.
The new rub rail is probably going to be more workable than the old stuff. Taking your time is probably the key to getting it done right.

Although Joe is pretty clever when it comes to doing stuff like this. I think that he has presented some good pointers. It's a job that would make me a little nervous that's for sure.

 

[25yearslater]

You're right Joe. The stuff from Rudy at D&R is pretty stiff but not brittle like the rubrail I removed. The warming with the heat gun is the trickiest part. The temperature that it becomes flexible and moldable without melting are seemingly close. I held the heat gun back about 8 to 10 inches and worked it back and forth over about 6 inches until it started to flex then continued until it formed easily. It doesn't take more than about 20 seconds from flex to mold. Held too close and a scorch will occur. Confession: I used about a foot for practice first.

 

[Indysailor]

I was just checking out the Aluminum rub rail on my boat. It looks to me like they started screwing it on on the Port side of the boat just under the port light and worked toward the stern and ended about three feet on the Starboard side.

I've never installed that stuff before and I'd probable be scratching my head trying to figure out the best way to make those bends come out right. I think that I would start by screwing on about three feet on one side and bring around to the other side at least a couple of feet. Then I would cut both sides to fit the existing rub rail.
The new rub rail is probably going to be more workable than the old stuff. Taking your time is probably the key to getting it done right.

Although Joe is pretty clever when it comes to doing stuff like this. I think that he has presented some good pointers. It's a job that would make me a little nervous that's for sure.

Especially since I have no patience at all with things like heat guns. On high, three inches away!
I guess Rudy is selling pieces of rub rail in shorter lengths now? When I called in '10 about it he said he'd only sell me the full length, which is why I never dealt with it until someone mentioned that he sold them some smaller lengths. What I need is about twelve feet.

I actually found the company that makes the stuff and called them, but they asked me if I knew a guy named Rudy Nickerson, who bought just about all the rub rail they made in that type.

Kind of wish my boat had aluminum like yours, Joe.

 

[Joe11688]

Especially since I have no patience at all with things like heat guns. On high, three inches away!
I guess Rudy is selling pieces of rub rail in shorter lengths now? When I called in '10 about it he said he'd only sell me the full length, which is why I never dealt with it until someone mentioned that he sold them some smaller lengths. What I need is about twelve feet.

I actually found the company that makes the stuff and called them, but they asked me if I knew a guy named Rudy Nickerson, who bought just about all the rub rail they made in that type.

Kind of wish my boat had aluminum like yours, Joe.

I haven't been down to see Rudy in a while so I really don't know if he is selling shorter lengths of rub rail. I have a bad spot of rub rail near my Port bow that I should replace some day. Perhaps I'll look into it. That was from when my boat bounced off the side of a drawbridge many years ago. Even the Aluminum rub rail can get pretty damaged if it's hit hard enough.

Joe

 

[ccitykid]

Where can I get aluminum rub rail 1 7/8" for cat 25?
also 22" stanchion

 

[Ward H]

Indy, the rigid rub rail holder Rudy is selling is in 20' lengths. The black rubber insert is in 60' lengths. I just got 60' of both to do my 25. Now I just need a few warm days and a way to heat water at the marina.
This was the first time I saw the video. I like the idea of epoxy filling the screw holes and drilling new.
BTW. Rudy suggested 3m 4200 for sealing the screws.

 

[cb32863]

Where can I get aluminum rub rail 1 7/8" for cat 25?
also 22" stanchion

As this is the O' Day forum you may want to ask your question in the Catalina forum instead. You will probably get better responses for your particular need.

 

[Indysailor]

Indy, the rigid rub rail holder Rudy is selling is in 20' lengths. The black rubber insert is in 60' lengths. I just got 60' of both to do my 25. Now I just need a few warm days and a way to heat water at the marina.
This was the first time I saw the video. I like the idea of epoxy filling the screw holes and drilling new.
BTW. Rudy suggested 3m 4200 for sealing the screws.

Oh yeah, I spoke to Rudy and he's going to sell me twelve feet of both parts. I practiced with a newer piece, sent to me by Joe, our master of ODay renewal and was able to get it around a ninety degree bend, so I'm ready.