Ben 423 Shaft Seal

[bwasileski]

Hi.

I'm seeking some advice from someone who as changed the shaft seal on a 423. My Ben is 8 years old now so it's due. There's no information in the user manual about it other than maintaining the seal - it doesn't even mention replacement after so many years....Before digging into it, I want to educate myself as much as possible. Thanks in advance.

-Bryan

 

[Captn TJ]

Bryan


Are you replacing the volvo seal because it's leaking? On my 2 previous Beneteaus one was 10 years old when I sold the boat - no problems and another boat was 8 years old no problems - all Volvo shaft seals.

If you need to - I'm sure there is a technical bulletin you can get from Beneteau or the dealer. However it could be as simple as disconnecting the shaft and moving it back a few inches then undoing the seal and sliding it forward to clear the shaft. Reverse the process for the new one.

Obviously all done on the hard

 

[Bob846]

This is from the 423 Yahoo User group posted on 1-May-2009 by geofboole:

The shaft is fastened to the prop shaft flange with a large 24mm nut under which is a thick washer. The neck of the flange is tapered as is the collar of the flange. There is a key inserted between the flange neck and the shaft to push it to one side.

1. Make a line between the prop and transmission collars so you can refasten in exactly the same way. Loosen the four bolts holding the two flanges together and seperate the two collars.
2. Get a 3 foot piece of 2x4 wood and fasten itr horizontally to the prop shaft between the rudder and the strut. Fasten on the port side with bungee cords.
3. Begin to take off the prop shaft flange by loosening the 24mm nut holding the prop shaft to the flange. You will need a 24mm deep socket as well as a fairly robust driver. I used a 24" long 1/2 inch driver. The board wedged between the rudder and strut will hold the shaft so you can apply torque.
4. Loosen the nut to the end of the prop shaft so it just covers the threads of the shaft. (This protects the thread as you apply torque in the next steps)
5.Buy 4 cheap M10 bolts about 2 1/4" long and 2 1/2" long together with nuts.
6. Insert a 3/4 inch socket or any socket that is about two inches wide by two inches long (You may need to experiment here)between the two flanges.
7. Fasten the appropriate bolts between the two flanges and begin to tighten them. Tighten a small turn at a time sequentially so that you even out the torque between the bolts. At the same time tap lightly the neck of the flange as you tighten to set up vibration between the shaft and the flange. Keep tightening and eventually the prop shaft will spring loose.
8. Once the shaft is loose take off the bolts securing the flange and take off the nut holding the prop shaft.
9. Pull out the key with a pair of pliers. It comes out easily.
10. Take off the old shaft seal
11.Clean the shaft with acetone and make sure there are no burrs.
Install the new shaft seal as per instructions.
12.Reassemble everything remembering to move the 2x4 to the other side to tighten the large 24mm bolt.

 

[Captn TJ]

Not sure now of the original question - are you asking about the Volvo shaft seal (which is inside the boat) or the cutlass bearing (outside the boat)

 

[bwasileski]

No. It's not leaking. Given that the boat is 8 years old now, I'd rather replace it when it's not leaking than when it is. Thing usually go bad quickly and I wouldn't want it to fail. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[bwasileski]

This is the volvo seal inside.

 

[bwasileski]

Sounds like you've already done this...at least once. Great detail. Thanks!

 

[bwasileski]

The boat is on the hard now - winter in MA. Spring is coming soon enough.

 

[Captn TJ]

I'll defer back to my original response - this is a fairly easy fix. Disconnect the shaft from the coupler and slide back a few inches. Remove the Volvo seal from the shaft log. Slide out the Volvo seal slide the new one on. You can use soapy water to help slide it on. Once on apply the lubricant/grease with the red split cap. Slide the shaft back on to the coupler.

The major concern is making sure you don't disturb the water coupling that is screwed into the shaft log.

Overall this is a pretty quick project as well.

Tony
423 #289

 

[Cuttingclass]

I've got a 1998 381 I bought new. Have over 10k mies on it. Original shaft seal still fine. Ward, at Beneteau customer service, advised that problems usually occur only when shaft alignment not good. He said if the alignment is good they can last indefinantly. Otherwise if it ain't broke...

Ward also said issues will start with a slow drip and get worse over time. Good luck, Dan

 

[ph034495]

When mine leaked i used it as an opportunity to install a dripless packing. They relatively easy to install (have to disconnect shaft and slide back) and well engineered components..
don