1. Look carefully at all the sheeves (crankcase, water pump, and alternator) pitting or surface roughness where the belts contact the sheeves. Especially the waterpump sheeve made from 'pressed steel' is very subject to rusting/pitting when the engine isnt run for long periods. Cast iron and cast/machined steel sheaves can be 'dressed' by a machinist back to 'smooth'; with pressed steel its usually cheaper and faster to just replace them.
If a sheeve is 'worn out', the smallest part of the bottom-vee will be coming in contact with bottom of the vee groove on the sheeve.
2. If the alternator sheeve is not 'square' with the other sheeves, the belt will ride higher on one side of the sheeve .... check the alignment of the alternator sheeve with the other 2.
3. If all the 'mechanicals' (above) are OK AND your alternator is EXTERNALLY REGULATED (by a 'smart' regulator), then you can adjust how FAST the alternator applies electrical load hence pulley/belt load. On most 'smart' regulators you can easily change the programming of how 'fast' the alternator 'reacts' to changing loads and rpms. With a 'smart' regulator you can easily 'derate' an alternator slightly until the belt no longer slips, etc. .... this assumes that all the 'mechanicals' are OK, first.
A 90 amp alternator at max. electrical load is 'just about' at the limit of too much load for a 1/2" vee belt.
4. Are you using a BELT TENSION gage when adjusting? ... no overtightening (stretching), no undertightening. Such gages/tools are CHEAP ... from NAPA, etc.
5. Many of the 'cheapy' vee belts being imported (even by OEMs) are crap. My choice for all vee belts in important service is GATES premium belts - longer lasting, less stretch over time, stay 'softer longer', etc. etc. etc.