Belt dust
- Thread starter Graysailor
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Dust is not usually an alignment problem.
If belts were out of alignment they would tend to jump out of their grooves instead of shedding dust. Dust is usually caused by too much belt tension. You want deflection between the pulleys.(as tested with a thumb-press) But the amount of deflection depends on your setup. The manufacturer of your system should provide that info.
If belts were out of alignment they would tend to jump out of their grooves instead of shedding dust. Dust is usually caused by too much belt tension. You want deflection between the pulleys.(as tested with a thumb-press) But the amount of deflection depends on your setup. The manufacturer of your system should provide that info.
Could also be
The compressor is pulling to much power and the belt is slipping. This could be a sign of gremlins in the reefer compressor. There are several prayers you can say to help but I've found that a vigorous shaking of a 1/2" wrench while saying "OK, I'm a smart guy, how do I do this?" followed by actually turning some of the adjustment nuts is very effective at getting them out. The same adjustment for alignment is used (usually) to adjust the belt tension. There should be slots in the motor mounting plate that allow it to move toward or away from the compressor. Be sure to (i know you know this) keep the shafts of the motor and compressor parallel. Roosa Family TRITIUM
The compressor is pulling to much power and the belt is slipping. This could be a sign of gremlins in the reefer compressor. There are several prayers you can say to help but I've found that a vigorous shaking of a 1/2" wrench while saying "OK, I'm a smart guy, how do I do this?" followed by actually turning some of the adjustment nuts is very effective at getting them out. The same adjustment for alignment is used (usually) to adjust the belt tension. There should be slots in the motor mounting plate that allow it to move toward or away from the compressor. Be sure to (i know you know this) keep the shafts of the motor and compressor parallel. Roosa Family TRITIUM
You may not ever completely get rid of it
As Bill suggests you certainly need to make sure that the compressor is working properly and the pulleys do need to be properly aligned and the belt tensioned, however... pulling a big load on a single belt is going to produce wear. That's why big drive components need two belts. I'm pulling a 110 amp alternator with a single belt and I'm probably a little over the edge in that regard. I'm carefully aligned and tensioned and I still get a fair amount of belt dust. I only get 200 - 300 hours on a belt and I carry plenty of spares. The upside (sort of) is that I've gotten lots of practice and can change one in less than 2 minutes.
As Bill suggests you certainly need to make sure that the compressor is working properly and the pulleys do need to be properly aligned and the belt tensioned, however... pulling a big load on a single belt is going to produce wear. That's why big drive components need two belts. I'm pulling a 110 amp alternator with a single belt and I'm probably a little over the edge in that regard. I'm carefully aligned and tensioned and I still get a fair amount of belt dust. I only get 200 - 300 hours on a belt and I carry plenty of spares. The upside (sort of) is that I've gotten lots of practice and can change one in less than 2 minutes.
Another thought
Belt dust can also be caused by belt vibration. Belt vibration occurs when there is a large span distance between the power source and the load. If this is the case, an intermediary or idler pulley can be introduced to minimize the unsupported span of belt. The best choice if possible would be a spring loaded self tensioning idler. Most autos today use this setup.
Belt dust can also be caused by belt vibration. Belt vibration occurs when there is a large span distance between the power source and the load. If this is the case, an intermediary or idler pulley can be introduced to minimize the unsupported span of belt. The best choice if possible would be a spring loaded self tensioning idler. Most autos today use this setup.
Thanks for the input
Thanks one and all for the input regarding "belt dust". I am taking all your thoughts and will take a good look at the compressor.
Thanks one and all for the input regarding "belt dust". I am taking all your thoughts and will take a good look at the compressor.
Belt Tension Meter
I am a big believer in using an inexpensive belt tension meter available, perhaps by special order, at your local auto Parts Store. I would guess you need more tension, not less. However to much tension will take the bearings out, so it needs to be measured.
I am a big believer in using an inexpensive belt tension meter available, perhaps by special order, at your local auto Parts Store. I would guess you need more tension, not less. However to much tension will take the bearings out, so it needs to be measured.
Belt Care 101
Try an inexpensive solution. Its called Belt Dressing. Usually a 'Spray Can' product sold in any auto parts store. It works to reduce or eliminate slipage, is sort of sticky and will bind the surface granuals of rubber together. The biggest enemy of drive belts is heat. Most belts can stand a bit of miss-alignment. Afterall if the system was really perfectly aligned the engineer could have designed a gear instead of a Belt.
Try an inexpensive solution. Its called Belt Dressing. Usually a 'Spray Can' product sold in any auto parts store. It works to reduce or eliminate slipage, is sort of sticky and will bind the surface granuals of rubber together. The biggest enemy of drive belts is heat. Most belts can stand a bit of miss-alignment. Afterall if the system was really perfectly aligned the engineer could have designed a gear instead of a Belt.
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