Bedding port lights

Status
Not open for further replies.
Apr 3, 2008
166
Nonsuch Ultra 30 Gulfport, FL
Has anyone had any experience using butyl tape to bed portlights rather than Life Seal as Don Casey recommends?

Thanks,

>>ron<<
 

n624ma

.
Jan 27, 2007
48
Hunter 33_77-83 Groton Ct
Butyl

Yes! It is great, just tighten the fasteners in increments to give it a chance to squeeze down.

I put in 11 NewFound Metals (NFM) S.S. ports and it is great.
The best part is the ease of cleanup, just take a putty knife and slice it off after a day or so, NFM recommends a final seal of regular caulk on the outside to keep it from continuing to "creep".

I just replaced all of my lifeline stanchions and used butyl under them with great results.
 

Blitz

.
Jul 10, 2007
722
Seidelmann 34 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Butyl

I know Maine Sail is a big fan of Butyl tape and we all can see why if you have used it.
I have been using butyl tape on most items above the waterline since it is easier to work with and have been wondering on the limitations of the material - is there any place you wouldn't use it? I have done winches, sail tracks, and blocks. I like the idea of using limited Life Seal to stop the creep. I see no problem with using it to bed port lights and wish I knew about it a few years ago when I rebedded mine.

Not sure about an inspection port in the sole of a cockpit or anchor locker? How about a anchor locker drain (thru hull) that exits the hull well above the waterline? How about a holding tank or fuel vent well above the waterline?

 
Aug 19, 2004
239
Hunter 35 Vancouver, BC
Does Not Sound Promising

Has anyone had any experience using butyl tape to bed portlights rather than Life Seal as Don Casey recommends?>ron<<
In my experience port lights have a barrel with a mounting flange on the inside face. A tape type sealant can only work effectively when used between two flat surfaces that are pushed directly together and held firmly. This means between the flange and the inside face of the hull. Using a tape in this location would initially seal reasonably well, but does not prevent water coming into the annular space between the port barrel and the hull. From here it can either migrate through the hulll - and cause all sorts of grief - or the impact of the winter freeze thaw cycle on any trapped water could cause local physical damage.

IMHO they key to success is to get the right kind of sealant into the space between the port barrel and the hull. If installing new ports or rebedding old ones, don't be afraid to open up the gap between the barrel and the hull to at least 1/4" or more so that the sealant can readily be pushed into this space. Due to sloppy workmanship, my original Becksons were actually touching the hull in some places at the sides. This arrangement is simply unsealable!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.