I am refurbishing/restoring/rebuilding/rebirthing a 1978 ODay Mariner. I have removed all the deck hardware and cleaned the deck. Should I reinstall/rebed and then paint or paint and then rebed. I realize it would be easier to paint first but is the additional interface a significant source of leaks?
bedding hardware
- Thread starter Cary Andras
- Start date
I'd probably re-paint, at least somewhat underneath the existing plates and fixtures. Saves having any paint lines anywhere at risk of coming exposed, or peeling away. I would imagine as long as you bed the hardware securely, an extra few mils won't make a difference. Butyl tape to the rescue.
If you have time to allow the paint to fully cure (think a month or more) then paint first. Even then, there's no reason to paint right up to the holes.
I've bedded over fresh paint (impatient bugger that I am), and any bedding compound worth its salt will pull the paint away. Bed-It Butyl (the only rubber worth using) adheres tenaciously, and will do just that.
There's no shame in painting around bedded hardware.
I've bedded over fresh paint (impatient bugger that I am), and any bedding compound worth its salt will pull the paint away. Bed-It Butyl (the only rubber worth using) adheres tenaciously, and will do just that.
There's no shame in painting around bedded hardware.
if you use the right paint and get the adhesion you want, then it will never be a source for a leak...
as Joe has said, it will save money on time and tape, but the savings on time and trouble is where the value is.
a good secure tape job that is done properly so the paint line is in just the right spot so its not obvious when the tape is removed is tedious work.....
as Joe has said, it will save money on time and tape, but the savings on time and trouble is where the value is.
a good secure tape job that is done properly so the paint line is in just the right spot so its not obvious when the tape is removed is tedious work.....
rebedding vs painting first
Thank you all very much. Never thought about letting the paint cure for an extended period even though I am doing just that with a shower floor in my house right now.
Thank you all very much. Never thought about letting the paint cure for an extended period even though I am doing just that with a shower floor in my house right now.
Cary,
The guys posted some good info here for you to consider.
Having repainted my worn-out fiberglass gel coat & coloring,
the correct method is first to remove all the deck fittings then paint. This is what you have done.
I ordered Top Secret 2 part epoxy paint and after 3 years, it's still bullet-proof.
There are other(?) good sealer/caulks to use. I went with Dow Corning 795 white caulk.
It's a construction caulk that holds it's elasticity even in UV rays & does not harden. I do believe it comes in colors also.
5200 will harden & crack in time & it's a ***** to remove. Only use 5200 ie: below the waterline or, when you never EVER have to take it apart again. Silicone is a NO-NO on topsides. Silicone being a petroleum product, will shrink & pull away from surfaces, it's great at staying together with itself & harder to remove the residue.
There are equal products on the market like butyl tape etc, but I believe it only comes in black & I have never used it.
CR
The guys posted some good info here for you to consider.
Having repainted my worn-out fiberglass gel coat & coloring,
the correct method is first to remove all the deck fittings then paint. This is what you have done.
I ordered Top Secret 2 part epoxy paint and after 3 years, it's still bullet-proof.
There are other(?) good sealer/caulks to use. I went with Dow Corning 795 white caulk.
It's a construction caulk that holds it's elasticity even in UV rays & does not harden. I do believe it comes in colors also.
5200 will harden & crack in time & it's a ***** to remove. Only use 5200 ie: below the waterline or, when you never EVER have to take it apart again. Silicone is a NO-NO on topsides. Silicone being a petroleum product, will shrink & pull away from surfaces, it's great at staying together with itself & harder to remove the residue.
There are equal products on the market like butyl tape etc, but I believe it only comes in black & I have never used it.
CR
Dow 795 is a glazing/construction grade silicone....
"Description
Dow Corning® 795 Silicone Building Sealant is a one-part, cold-applied, non-sagging silicone material that cures to a medium modulus silicone rubber upon exposure to atmospheric moisture."
Ooops you used silicone...
Bed-It Tape comes in gray and is specifically formulated for bedding marine deck hardware..
Main,
Really man? Where did you see in my post that I had used silicone caulk topsides?
I never downplayed butyl man, so why the post?
I remember you took exception to a post I made last month. But now this?
CR
Really man? Where did you see in my post that I had used silicone caulk topsides?
I never downplayed butyl man, so why the post?
I remember you took exception to a post I made last month. But now this?
CR
Here: "I went with Dow Corning 795 white caulk."
I did not take offense to anything you said just found some humor in it.. Hence the "winkie"
..I also did not mean to offend you. It seems my humor perhaps was not taken as humorous sorry for that.I was merely pointing out that Dow Corning 795 is a silicone sealant, one of hundreds of formulations, and one of the better ones. It is however still a silicone with all the silicone contamination issues of any other... Unfortunately Dow dances around the fact that it is a silicone and many assume it is not when it is.
I just got a kick out of your excellent points about silicone (which I totally agree with) right after you stated you had used silicone/Dow Corning 795...
I was only letting you know that butyl is avaible in gray, not offense taken at all...
After banning silicon from our boat I went ahead and glued our new port lights on with Dow 795 silicon!!!
Following almost total core replacement caused by failed silicon and lack of potting,
All topside hardware went on with Maine Sails butyl tape and countersinking techniques. I've used almost 2 full rolls in the last 3 years with nary a leak anywhere. I've the sore thumbs to remember it by.
As a bonus - butyl tape appears to be fully reusable!
The boat is finally dry but Wish I could have painted first....
Following almost total core replacement caused by failed silicon and lack of potting,
All topside hardware went on with Maine Sails butyl tape and countersinking techniques. I've used almost 2 full rolls in the last 3 years with nary a leak anywhere. I've the sore thumbs to remember it by.
As a bonus - butyl tape appears to be fully reusable!
The boat is finally dry but Wish I could have painted first....