Bedding Hardware Into Exposed Plywood Floor

[DinoKanuck]

Good Wednesday Morning:

Looking for suggestions on bedding hinges into a wooden cockpit floor.

The teak-looking plywood floor in the cockpit has been sealed in epoxy by the previous owner who did a great job keeping the boat looking great and keeping rain off the cockpit floor. During my short watch it seems that for 3 days last October the cockpit was exposed to rain and then moisture got under the epoxy and at the wood via the screws for the hardware. Not spongy but looks bad.

Any one got some experience and suggestions to share on installing the hardware so the wood stays sealed?

At this point, I am calling it “only cosmetic” and since the floor has been drying out, the plan for this season is to install larger screws (or bolts) and bed the hardware.

If you have some experience and advice to share it will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dino K

 

[Ross]

Dipping the screws in pipe joint compound will keep water out of that path. I would mortise for the hinges and then apply finish to the wood in the mortise.

 

[DinoKanuck]

Ross:
I have plenty of the Oatly non-hardening pipe joint compound.
Is that the stuff?
Thanks

Dino

 

[Ross]

That's it. Alcohol is the most effective cleaner for that stuff.

 

[MetricMountie]

Morning Dino
I've run across this problem in the past with the previous boat and cured it this way. I cut the mortises for the hardware to twice the depth that the hardware required and then backfilled it with epoxy & filler to the proper depth. The epoxy/filler filled the original screw holes as well. I then drilled the holes with a small pilot hole and then used a tap to tap the holes to the right screw size. With the holes tapped they remained sealed and the problem didn't return.

 

[DinoKanuck]

Metric:

I think the current hardware holes can take up to a #8 screw and I have an 8-32 tap.

So the process would be.. drill the holes out larger that #8, fill holes with epoxy, tap the holes to 8-32, then install 8-32 machine screws because 8-32 wood screws do not exist?

Not sure I got the skills or tools to do a mortise - can that step be skipped?

Dino
Sadly,

 

[Ross]

#8 wood screws certainly exist and will hold better than machine screws in this application.

 

[DinoKanuck]

Ross:

Would I need to tap for the #8 wood screws or just pre-drill a hole?

Dino

 

[MetricMountie]

Dino

As Ross says #8 stainless wood screws are available but you could use the machine screws as well as long as the had a shoulder and would fit flush with the deck hardware. The mortise can be done quite easily, I use a Dremel osicillating saw to do this type of work now. You'd just mark out area around the hardware and then cut the mortise by marking the depth on the saw blade with a piece of masking tap so that you don't exceed the depth on the plunge cut and then remove the tape to do your end cut. If you don't mortise the hardware it'll stand proud of the sole and you can bet you'll wish you had done the job after you catch your foot on the hardware the 1st time. I'll lend you the saw if you like. If you don't want to tap the holes you'll have to be careful not to drill the holes either too big or too small. One way or another too small you could split out the hole, too large and you'll have too little bite on the screw threads. Let me know what you decide.

 

[Eddie7045]

Ross, the pipe joint compound might work well but

wouldn't clear silicone work as well and be better cosmetically ?

 

[DinoKanuck]

Metric: Appreciate the offer on the loan of the saw. I'm leaning in that direction.

Dino

 

[Eddie7045]

It would be better if you could strip the resin off the

wood and refinish it with marine spar. Then wet seal the faying surfaces of all the hardware with clear silicone. Granted it's a bit of work but you will enjoy the results for as long as you own the boat.

 

[DinoKanuck]

Have the holes drilled out and refilled with Epoxy Putty.

Hoping to use more nuts & bolts and fewer wood screws where possible and even tapping bolt holes.

Dino K