Beaching H240

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sep 25, 2003
100
Beneteau Oceanis 48 Casco Bay, ME
This is our first year with a new H240 and we have had a great year so far! I am wondering if there are any tips and advice for beaching a 240 to stretch legs on the many islands we have in Maine to explore. I have an outboard and wonder how folks deal with tide issue and wind if it is not cooperating. Thanks and I look forward to seeing what folks have to offer.
 
May 11, 2004
85
- - Richmond, VA
anchor just off shore

I have a H216, and I don't actually beach it. I anchor just off shore so the boat floats in the water. Ideally, you want the wind blowing away from shore so you can place the anchor on shore and pull the boat up as close as you can (assuming you are staying near the boat). If you actually beach it, you run the risk of the tide going out and not being able to push your boat off land (until the tide returns). If you are leaving you boat over-night (or not staying near the boat) you may want to anchor so that if the wind shifts, there is no chance of going aground.
 
M

Mike B.

Beach it !

Beach it! We sail our water ballast Hunter 23.5 to an island a few miles offshore leaving our mooring on an outgoing tide. By time we arrive at the island it is an hour or two before dead low tide. We anchor and go ashore, explore and fill a bucket or two with steamer clams. This leaves the boat sitting high and dry on the sand. When we are ready to depart the island, an hour or two after dead low tide, there is enough incoming tidewater to sail away on a run with the board up, which we lower as we enter deeper water.
 
Sep 25, 2003
100
Beneteau Oceanis 48 Casco Bay, ME
Neat

That works out nicely it would seem! Any noticable wear and tear on the bottom from that to speak of?
 
D

Drew

Be Gentle...

I've beached mine, too. Just be gentle and you should have no problems. As far as a non-cooperting outboard goes, the 240 points pretty well. As long as there's a modicum of wind you will be fine. Enjoy.
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Modified Med moor

My boat's keel is fixed (it draws 27") so I have to use a different approach. I motor (upwind) towards the beach and drop anchor in about four ft of water. Then, I turn the boat around, raise the rudder (it's deeper than the keel) hang my swim ladder over the transom and loosely tie the secondary anchor rode (100 ft of line and a light Danforth) to a rear cleat. Then I back the boat towards the beach using the outboard while letting the primary anchor rode run. When the keel touches bottom, I go over the transom and wade ashore with the stern anchor (the water's only 2 ft deep). With my weight off, the boat refloats. I then dig the stern anchor in securely in on the beach, go back aboard and pull the boat away from the beach a bit with the primary anchor rode while letting the secondary rode run. When I'm deep enough for the keel not to bounce on the bottom from passing boat wakes, I tie off both anchor rodes and go back ashore. The procedure is a little involved but it makes leaving very easy. I bring the stern anchor aboard and stow all my gear. Depending on the wind direction, the boat will either drift towards the anchor or I'll pull up to it using the primary rode. Once there, all I do is cleat the rudder down, break the anchor free and sail away. On a related note, my rowing dinghy is almost finished, so I won't be beaching like that too much longer.
 
Jun 7, 2004
39
- - Long Island NY
Details of your Dingy Peter

Hi Peter, I am excited to hear of your progress with your dingy, My family's dingy is in critical condition this fall so I need to make a decision to repair, build (like you) or purchase. Since I'm cheap (like so many engineers!) I'm leaning towards build/repair. Thanks, /Chuck S/V Windsongs '85 H23
 
F

Frank Ladd

I use the same method as Peter

I use the same method except that I raise my keel first and can get even closer to shore because I have a shallower draft.
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Dinghy update

The outside of the hull is completed and primed. Even with the pencil marks showing, the natural wood interior looks good against the white primer on the hull. It reminds me of the rowing boats on those old sailing ships. Finishing the hull took a lot longer than I had expected because I glassed and faired the entire outside of the hull up to the gunwales. I forgot how hard it is to sand epoxy. I also gave up trying to build the sailing version because the daggerboard trunk turned into a real pain. The plans weren't clear on this but then again, I downloaded them off the web for free, so I shouldn't complain. I made two seven-foot oars from scratch for about $25 in material from Home Depot and I have to say they look pretty good. The only things left to do are to sand the interior of the hull to get rid of all the stray sharp pieces of epoxy and glass cloth, epoxy in the seat, finish the interior and oars with clear epoxy and add the oarlocks. I think I'm going to varnish the midship seat. Everthing should be done by Halloween. I'd be done sooner but I can only get a good workday about once every two weeks. Here's a picture of a "sistership" so you can have a rough idea of what she'll look like. Peter H23 "Raven"
 
Jun 7, 2004
39
- - Long Island NY
RE: Dingy Update

Peter, Sounds like you've made great progress. I can further add that if you installed the centerboard trunk, You'd probably get a leak sometime during the lifetime of the boat. Also, water splashes into the boat even with a centerboard cover. Our present dingly has a centerboard and it's leaking right now. Also, can you share how many hours you've put into the boat? Just getting a feel for what kind of time committment this project is. Thanks much, /Chuck S/V Windsongs '85 H23
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Yo Chuck

Let's see, if you start today you might just make it on time for spring....just kidding. I started on the Saturday of the Memorial Day weekend. At this point I have about 50 hours of actual working time in it, and a good chunk of that was wasted while trying to build the centerboard trunk. I was also working alone, and that will slow you down. They claim you can build a D4 dinghy in two weekends, but I wouldn't bank on it. I did everyting on a couple of old, 6-foot long folding banquet tables in one side of a two-car garage. I worked mostly at night after dinner so I do a little then go to sleep while the epoxy cured. That limited me to a maximum window of about four hours, though two to three hours a night was more typical. I rarely had two nights back to back and I reserved all work involving loud power tools for the weekends to keep the neighbors off my case. In retrospect I could have done it faster, but since this is my first boat building project and I was working alone, I wanted to take my time and not mess up....not that it helped. Even though I measured twice and cut once, I still made mistakes. Fortunately, none of them was catastrophic, and in the process I learned to appreciate the elegant simplicity of the stitch-and-glue method and the advantages of working with plywood and epoxy. You get the classic beauty of wood combined with the high strength, durability and low maintenance of epoxy. No wonder wooden boatbuilding is making a comeback. I think this would be a good winter project for even an inexperienced builder. You just need the desire (or the curiosity), some patience and a few simple tools (circular saw, jigsaw, orbital sander, shop vac, pliers, screwdriver, hammer, electric drill, tape measure, builders square, carpenter level and a few other odds and ends). One final warning...if your work area has a nice floor, make sure you put down a sturdy plastic drop sheet because epoxy drips like crazy! Go for it! Peter H23 "Raven"
 
Jun 7, 2004
39
- - Long Island NY
Thanks Peter

Peter, Thanks for the update. I'm currently waiting on the plans to come then will decide which option (repair vs. build) I'm going to choose. Sounds like a great experience. The only issues I'd be concerned about is if I have any hidden allergies or sensitivies to Epoxy. Good Luck! /Chuck S/V Windsongs '85 H23
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Epoxy Allergies

If you're not sure, buy a small repair kit (about $30 at WM) and a small disposable paint brush. Mix up a little and paint a piece of scrap plywood, about a foot square will do. You should be able to find out pretty quickly if you are allergic. Different brands have different formulas too, so you may be allergic to one and not the other. West System is very popular but I've been getting excellent results with Epiglass (made by Interlux). You can also buy epoxy and other materials from bateaux.com, the same place where you buy the plans. I think they'll even sell you a kit with precut parts. Most epoxies have low volatility and almost no vapor but wear a respirator and gloves if you want to be on the safe side. I use the blue disposable nitrile gloves from Home Depot because they are stronger than latex or vinyl and the price is right (about $10 for a box of 50). You should also wear long sleeves and you can try disposable Tyvek coveralls as well. All in all you can protect yurself pretty well. Here's another hint (if I haven't already given it). Methanol will clean up epoxy in any condition except cured hard. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
 
Jun 7, 2004
39
- - Long Island NY
Good Suggestions Peter

Very good hints, I've been doing some fibreglss repair on Windsongs (cracks in the cockpit)and did spill some on gel coat. I used acetone but it seemed to just wipe it around rather than clean it up. I'll look up the interlux product; that may be a better bet even if I decide to repair the existing dingy. /Chuck
 
Status
Not open for further replies.