Battery Systems Upgrade Question

[Scott]

I am in the process of upgrading from the 1-both-2-off switch system to the three switch system (House on/off, Emergency Parallel, Starting on/off) on my '85 H-34. I'm using a combiner and three group 31 deep cycle batteries (two house, one starting), as well as the original Yanmar 3GM20F OEM alterator (likely a Hitachi).All the information I've found (Calder, Case, West Advisor, etc.) prescribes running 2 AWG wire from the starter to the starting bank, and a seperate wire from the alternator to the House bank (via the appropriate breakers and switches of course. Banks are seperate during discharge and combinde via the West Marine Combiner during charge from either the AC TrueCharge at the dock, or the Alternator under engine power.My problem/question/concern:The existing OEM alternator (with integrated regulator) BAT wire is currently attached to the Starter only. A 4AWG l wire goes from the starter to the Common side of the present switch. I don't plan to replace this alternator just yet and the rest of the project is well documented.Is it ok to simply:A. Remove the wire that runs between the Alternator BAT post and the Starter ANDB. Run a new 2AWG wire from the Alternator BAT post to the new seperate House Bank?C. Run the existing wire from the starter to the new dedicated starter switch common post.Will this work or will I fry something in the process?Are there other wiring alterations I need to make?Are there sources I can reference other than those listed (tried) above?I have searched extensively using every term I can think of and found nothing in the archives that conclusively resolves this issue within the framework of this configuration (3 switches, OEM alternator, Battery Combiner).

 

[Bill]

Battery System Upgrade

Scott,A. Remove the wire that runs between the Alternator BAT post and the Starter ANDB. Run a new 2AWG wire from the Alternator BAT post to the new seperate House Bank?Yes, don't forget to run a 2AWG ground wire to the alternator/engine as well.C. Run the existing wire from the starter to the new dedicated starter switch common post.Yep, that'll work.I would skip some of the switches and just parallel the 2 house batteries without a switch. Or better yet, use 2 6V golf cart batteries in series for the house bank.I did a simliar project a few years ago. Additional things that I did were 4 6V golf cart batteries for house. 100 Amp Balmar dual alternator (no need for a combiner). 3 stage regulator. Link 2000 to monitor the whole thing. The existing battery switch was wired to allow the engine to use the engine battery, house bank or both. I had a Heart interface with an echo charge to charge both banks. Worked well... sold the boat and now would like to start again with alternator and regulator on the present boat.Bill

 

[Gord May]

YES as (both) above

For lots of info' try looking at: http://www.bluesea.com/instructions.htmBlue Sea Systems Marine Electrical ProductsThen: http://www.bluesea.com/Instruction/9180.pdfRegards,Gord