Battery switches.

[Ed Schenck]

On another post I wrote that I think that I bought the wrong Blue Seas battery switch( http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Items/...002e200 Dual Battery Combiner Switch with AFD ). It has legs and seems to want the wires to exit inside the cabin(http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/12001114/images/e_series_specs.jpg ). Or is this type switch meant to be mounted somewhere outside the cabin? I have checked the Blue Seas site and except for their "miini" switch none are flush-mounted. My battery switch was an old Guest(picture) that did not seem heavy enough for the new 1/0 wiring. The Blue Seas switch would leave the cabin open to the starboard locker. What are you guys using?

 

[Stu Jackson]

Ed, you purchased a VERY good switch. Keep it. It can be either flush or surface mounted. http://bluesea.com/files/resources/mounting_diagram/9000e_mounting.jpg

You can either drill the hole or surface mount it. Depends on what you have in the locker back there, but you could either flush mount it and simply seal the edges with silicone (or the preferred sealant of the decade ) or surface mount it. Or flush mount it and get around later to build a box behind it. Or build a box in the galley side and flush mount it in the box.

Your boat, your choice.

Most of these types of switches are mounted in thin metal panels in "electrical panels" on many boats.

Keep the switch.

http://bluesea.com/productdocs/9002e200

PS - I remember your earlier wiring post, but forget if you did a written wiring diagram in addition to your photos. Did you?

PPS - When you get around to using your Link 2000, try this: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4922.0.html

 

[Ed Schenck]

Nice Stu, did not see that or think of that. Of course there is a hole there now with four small holes for the original bolts. But maybe I can make the original space work. Nice and clean if done right.

The closest thing to a wiring diagram was this sketch that I made. Mainly to illustrate where things are in the boat for the H37C guys. And the fuses are not shown.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Ed, what sketch? Stu

 

[Jackdaw]

+1 on keeping the switch. BSS stuff rocks. Only stuff I now use.

Also correct on being able to mount it either side of a bulkhead. One piece of advice; if you mount from behind and the bulkhead is thick, please note that the 'shaft' of the BSS switch is tapered. if you measure for the face, the hole will be too small. If you measure for the base, the hole is be slightly oversized. Plan ahead.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Good advice, "measure once and cut three. . . . .". That doesn't sound right but I know what you mean. I'll drive up there tomorrow and see if I can figure it out. I think that bulkhead is 3/8". I won't do any cutting though.

 

[Allan12210]

Good advice, "measure once and cut three. . . . .". That doesn't sound right but I know what you mean. I'll drive up there tomorrow and see if I can figure it out. I think that bulkhead is 3/8". I won't do any cutting though.

And don't forget "I cut it twice and its still too short!" :cussing:

 

[Stu Jackson]

Ed, Comments on your wiring diagram:

1. What kind of Link do you have? 2000 or 1000? You only show the reserve bank going to the shunt. If you only have a Link 1000 you should be measuring the house bank, not the start bank.

2. There appear to be some thin lines going between the two bus bars. These would connect both battery banks. You DON'T want to do that.

3. You show the feed to the DC panel coming off the C post, but via the wire to the starter. I suggest you run the wiring direct from the C post to the DP and not all the way through the starter.

4. it's hard to read the A, B, C and D on your diagram. The + off your I/C should go to the PDP (your house bank bus bar). The A from your house bank should go there, too. I don't understand the D coming off the bus bar to the lower right of it, unless that's the negative from your house bank, in which case you're connecting + and -, not a good thing.

5. If you have a Link 2000, you need to show more wiring at the shunt.

You should get this resolved before you wire stuff up and turn it on.