Here's a question for all experts... I have the standard 1-2-Both-Off battery switch but only 1 battery. What I was thinking of doing is connecting the battery + cable to the "Field" terminal, one load bank (lights, VHF, depthsounder, solar panel) to "Bat 1" and the other "load" bank (outboard rectifier, etc) to the "Bat 2" terminal. My switch does not have the alternator protection, so it should just be a simple switch. My reason for this is: I would usually have it set to "1", but if I needed to use the outboard to charge my battery, I could switch it to "2" (I don't really trust the outboard, but it might come in handy in an emergency - I wouldn't have to run some wires, but just turn a switch). If I needed to run my lights at night while motoring, I could set the switch to "Both" and get charging and operate Load Bank "1". It seems really simple... Am I missing anything? Since the switch is there, I might as well put it to better use for now (before I start dreaming of bigger battery banks and Nav Stations!!!). Thanks! David J. s/v Wild Goose
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Switch what?
David, Most people are trying to avoid having to remember to use the switch!
Why bother? Stu
David, Most people are trying to avoid having to remember to use the switch!
Why bother? StuA simpler way
Instead of re-wiring the battery switch to use the motor's generator why not just use a diode? There are dual diode units (for 2 battery boats) for just this purpose. The common wire goes to the motor's generator output and one of the cathode wires to your battery. When the motor is off, no current flows out of the battery. When the motor is running, current flows to the battery, charging it.
Instead of re-wiring the battery switch to use the motor's generator why not just use a diode? There are dual diode units (for 2 battery boats) for just this purpose. The common wire goes to the motor's generator output and one of the cathode wires to your battery. When the motor is off, no current flows out of the battery. When the motor is running, current flows to the battery, charging it.
Bill, a couple things,,
First, those diodes put a half volt resistance on the charge from the alternator. The regulator will not see it to compensate. That means a low charge. Second, the motors alternator won't discharge the battery when the engine is off, connected or not, just like an inboard.
First, those diodes put a half volt resistance on the charge from the alternator. The regulator will not see it to compensate. That means a low charge. Second, the motors alternator won't discharge the battery when the engine is off, connected or not, just like an inboard.
Check this out...
Though it doesn't really answer the original question brought up in this thread, this device is a clever answer to those wanting both battery switching and charge spike protection. I've installed one and love it.
Though it doesn't really answer the original question brought up in this thread, this device is a clever answer to those wanting both battery switching and charge spike protection. I've installed one and love it.
Steve, any reason that wouldn't work with an
inboard? Shouldn't matter. It seems to be a transfer switch as used on a genset/inverter/whatever. It should keep a lot of boaters happy. Wonder if Sailnet has it?
inboard? Shouldn't matter. It seems to be a transfer switch as used on a genset/inverter/whatever. It should keep a lot of boaters happy. Wonder if Sailnet has it?
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