Have a 2000 310 and am having problems with the electrical/battery. I believe a problem is the battery breaker that is located on the battery selector switch. It is a 50A push button type. It appears to be sticking so it will be a unreliable in the sense that you don't know if it is open or closed (or somewhere in between). When I look at websites such as West Marine or Hamilton Marine, I do not find any breaker that is similar in the way it mounts onto the switch plate. The existing breaker mounts on the back side of the switch plate with 2 securing screws and the push buttom comes through a hole in the plate so you can just push the button to open or reset the circuit. As I said there is nothing that is remotely close to the look and mounting of the existing breaker. The bilge pump 25A breaker is also the same type and is mounted on the switch plate as well. Is there anywhere to purchase the same type of breaker or do I have to buy something else and mount it with a bit of engineering involved? KenK
Battery Switch Breakers
- Thread starter KenK13623
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Sounds like the same setup as my 280.
The breaker is NOT part of the switch; it is mounted seperately on the panel itself. I'd suggest that you contact Hunter if you believe the breaker to be bad. They should be able to sell a replacement or tell you where to get one. Good Luck, Clark
The breaker is NOT part of the switch; it is mounted seperately on the panel itself. I'd suggest that you contact Hunter if you believe the breaker to be bad. They should be able to sell a replacement or tell you where to get one. Good Luck, Clark
Breaker is not part of switch
Clark, You are correct the breaker is not part of the switch but is mounted on the same panel that the switch is mounted, as is that bilge pump breaker that I mentioned. I am assuming that the 50A breaker mounted on the panel feeds the DC distribution located at the Nav station. I will contact Hunter first. If that does not seem to help, I will look to replace with something else.
Clark, You are correct the breaker is not part of the switch but is mounted on the same panel that the switch is mounted, as is that bilge pump breaker that I mentioned. I am assuming that the 50A breaker mounted on the panel feeds the DC distribution located at the Nav station. I will contact Hunter first. If that does not seem to help, I will look to replace with something else.
Add a House bank
The problem with my DC system was the the common ground connections were very loose so there were times when a good circuit was not occuring. I have checked, cleaned and tighten all connections and everything is working great at this time. I do have another question. Originally the boat only had a single battery so I am adding a house bank. There is absolutely no wiring for a second battery so I will have to add all of it. When looking at the wiring setup, everything is straight forward except for how the bilge pump breaker is connected. Currently there is a small gauge wire that runs from the bilge breaker on the switch panel to the "Bat 1" lug. When I add my house bank, should I move that wire to the "Feeder" lug or add a second wire from "Bat 2" to the bilge pump so that there always is power to the bilge regardless of switch selection, battery connections, etc? Ken
The problem with my DC system was the the common ground connections were very loose so there were times when a good circuit was not occuring. I have checked, cleaned and tighten all connections and everything is working great at this time. I do have another question. Originally the boat only had a single battery so I am adding a house bank. There is absolutely no wiring for a second battery so I will have to add all of it. When looking at the wiring setup, everything is straight forward except for how the bilge pump breaker is connected. Currently there is a small gauge wire that runs from the bilge breaker on the switch panel to the "Bat 1" lug. When I add my house bank, should I move that wire to the "Feeder" lug or add a second wire from "Bat 2" to the bilge pump so that there always is power to the bilge regardless of switch selection, battery connections, etc? Ken
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