I read you can store batteries on board during winter as long as you keep them fully charged. I really would like to do this since I have these big 20 inch long, heavy mothers on board. Question is how long can I expect to go before I need to re-charge? Or should I just bite the bullet and get help to carry these off? Anyone in Chicago leave their batteries on board stored outside? Thanks.
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what type batteries?
self discharge occurs at different rates depending on what type batteries, however, as long as they are kept charged periodically (e.g., monthly top up), they won't freeze (wet cells) or otherwise suffer any degredation. Taking large batteries home for the winter isn't really practical or useful since you'll need to keep the charge up regardless. Don
self discharge occurs at different rates depending on what type batteries, however, as long as they are kept charged periodically (e.g., monthly top up), they won't freeze (wet cells) or otherwise suffer any degredation. Taking large batteries home for the winter isn't really practical or useful since you'll need to keep the charge up regardless. Don
Check with the local farmers
all of the ones around here just drive the machines to the winter storage site and close them up. Then they go home. In the spring They start the engines let tham warm up and then change the oil and grease the bearings.
all of the ones around here just drive the machines to the winter storage site and close them up. Then they go home. In the spring They start the engines let tham warm up and then change the oil and grease the bearings.
Sub-zero winters.
I have two heavy duty batteries in my C30 and three in my motorhome, all in lousy access locations of course !. About now, mid-October I put both toys to bed for the winter. The batteries I top up with water and charge to the full, then I go home like the farmers do. The boat sits outside under a cover and the motorhome is in an unheated steel barn. While winters have greatly modified here in north east Wisconsin we still get a spell of sub-zero weather at some time in the winter. While I suspect that this treatment might knock just a little bit off the full life of the battery ( not that I've scientifically proven that ) they don't really seem to come to any great harm. Lugging them all out and taking them home as I used to didn't seem to pay any real dividends so I quit doing it. If you are a purist, then take them out If leaving them in is worth a possible couple of weeks shorter life to you, leave the darned things in as I do. Jim G.
I have two heavy duty batteries in my C30 and three in my motorhome, all in lousy access locations of course !. About now, mid-October I put both toys to bed for the winter. The batteries I top up with water and charge to the full, then I go home like the farmers do. The boat sits outside under a cover and the motorhome is in an unheated steel barn. While winters have greatly modified here in north east Wisconsin we still get a spell of sub-zero weather at some time in the winter. While I suspect that this treatment might knock just a little bit off the full life of the battery ( not that I've scientifically proven that ) they don't really seem to come to any great harm. Lugging them all out and taking them home as I used to didn't seem to pay any real dividends so I quit doing it. If you are a purist, then take them out If leaving them in is worth a possible couple of weeks shorter life to you, leave the darned things in as I do. Jim G.
The battery makers all say the same thing
A wet lead cell self-discharges normally. After 30 days, the sulfites formed by self-discharging start to become solid & insoluble, and you have permanent loss of capacity. So, the advice from ALL of the battery makers, is to recharge them at least once per month, or better yet, to trickle charge them. A $50-100 solar panel (no regulator needed) will keep your batteries happy all winter, they only need some 30-50mA per day per battery to stay in top condition. Even the cheaper panels will give you that much power--but the really cheap ones aren't designed to be left outdoors.
A wet lead cell self-discharges normally. After 30 days, the sulfites formed by self-discharging start to become solid & insoluble, and you have permanent loss of capacity. So, the advice from ALL of the battery makers, is to recharge them at least once per month, or better yet, to trickle charge them. A $50-100 solar panel (no regulator needed) will keep your batteries happy all winter, they only need some 30-50mA per day per battery to stay in top condition. Even the cheaper panels will give you that much power--but the really cheap ones aren't designed to be left outdoors.
leak around window on top of 376 1997 hunter
I have this leak that is coming down though the center of the big window that is on the deck of my 376 Hunter. Has anyone had someone take this window out. I also just pulled the boat out for the winter and have found small blisters. I was told to open them up and let them dry over the winter. Any ideas.
I have this leak that is coming down though the center of the big window that is on the deck of my 376 Hunter. Has anyone had someone take this window out. I also just pulled the boat out for the winter and have found small blisters. I was told to open them up and let them dry over the winter. Any ideas.
Depending on the window....
Randy: Depending on the window, you may be able to cut the existing caulking out around the edge. Clean out the area and recaulk. I would check with Hunter Marine, but I think that your fixed ports are all caulked with Dow 795. It is very plyable and easy to work with. I would try this method before you try removing the window. As far as you blisters are concerned, that is a good method of cleaning them up. Be sure to wear glasses. The blisters have a acidic content. Once they are open, you should also rinse them out with distilled water. When spring comes, you can fill them with epoxy or marine bondo. Then you can seal them with a couple coats of epoxy and repaint the bottom.
Randy: Depending on the window, you may be able to cut the existing caulking out around the edge. Clean out the area and recaulk. I would check with Hunter Marine, but I think that your fixed ports are all caulked with Dow 795. It is very plyable and easy to work with. I would try this method before you try removing the window. As far as you blisters are concerned, that is a good method of cleaning them up. Be sure to wear glasses. The blisters have a acidic content. Once they are open, you should also rinse them out with distilled water. When spring comes, you can fill them with epoxy or marine bondo. Then you can seal them with a couple coats of epoxy and repaint the bottom.
911...what's the nature of your emergency?
I'd like to report a hijacked thread! ;D Seriously, though. My batteries are four years old. Every year when I'm through working on the boat until spring, I fully charge the batteries (around the beginning of December) and never do anything until March. Batteries remain aboard and I've never had a performanc/longevity problem. The boat winters in East Greenwich, RI. Cheers, Bob
I'd like to report a hijacked thread! ;D Seriously, though. My batteries are four years old. Every year when I'm through working on the boat until spring, I fully charge the batteries (around the beginning of December) and never do anything until March. Batteries remain aboard and I've never had a performanc/longevity problem. The boat winters in East Greenwich, RI. Cheers, Bob
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