Help, I have battery confusion and or a circuit or stater problem. My Beneteau First 285 has two 12 volt batteries #1 and #2 with a switch to use either. There is a charger to keep both charged. When I bought the boat seeveral months ago either would start the engine(a VolvoPenta). Then one day #1 would not start the engine and eventually was even to weak to run the house. The previous owner thought there might be a problem either with a weak battery or defective charger so through in a new charger. Even though the old #1 battery tested fair I replaced it as it would not hold a charge. I also put in the new charger. I bought an off the shelf 12 volt at local store and low and behold it also would not start the engine, yet the good old #2 battery continues to start the engine either in the #1 or #2 position, just for yuks I pulled the battery out of my Dakota pickup and it also would not start the engine, not even a good growl. Testing the battery while cranking yields just a minimum(not even a 1 volt)drop in either the 1 or 2 position. What is majic about the good old #2 battery (it is an Autozone cold crank rated 500amps--625 at 32 degrees). Is this all a signn of resistance someplace? Cables and conections all look good. Is my starter about to go? Hellllllllp!
Battery help
- Thread starter cest ah
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"yet the good old #2 battery continues to start the engine either in the #1 or #2 position"
Just to be clear,is it the "good old Battery 2" that starts when you move it from the #1 to the #2 cables (without moving the switch) or is it that the "Battery 2" starts the engine with the switch in either the #1 or #2 position?
In other words, are you moving the battery or the switch?
Just to be clear,is it the "good old Battery 2" that starts when you move it from the #1 to the #2 cables (without moving the switch) or is it that the "Battery 2" starts the engine with the switch in either the #1 or #2 position?
In other words, are you moving the battery or the switch?
Bad Connection
I would bet a beer that you have a bad, corroded, or loose connection in that circuit somewhere. And more than likely on the ground side. I just doesn't take much amperage to crank a small diesel in a boat. Instead of throwing parts and money at it, find the problem first, and fix the problem.
I would bet a beer that you have a bad, corroded, or loose connection in that circuit somewhere. And more than likely on the ground side. I just doesn't take much amperage to crank a small diesel in a boat. Instead of throwing parts and money at it, find the problem first, and fix the problem.
The #2 battery will start the boat when in the 1 position with the switch to 1 or in the 2 position with the switch to 2.
Interesting!
Apparently it can be the connections only if you inadvertently duplicated the problem only when switching batteries - not likely. Assuming all batteries have similar sized terminals and noting else changes when you disconnect and reconnect the #2 battery, only one explanation is plausible which you already mentioned - a magic battery!
Are you serious about this as, if so, there has to be another variable.
Apparently it can be the connections only if you inadvertently duplicated the problem only when switching batteries - not likely. Assuming all batteries have similar sized terminals and noting else changes when you disconnect and reconnect the #2 battery, only one explanation is plausible which you already mentioned - a magic battery!
Are you serious about this as, if so, there has to be another variable.
I suspect nice and easy is correct, there is probably a resistance someplace in the common pathway most likely ground, over come by a very good battery 2. I will start a systematic search starting at the terminals(already checked) going to the switch, and onto the other ends of the cables ie a ground terminal and a terminal on the solenoid or starter. Appreciate any advice, will take out for winter next week and commence search but may not be able to test until spring.
We seem to find your explanation of the problem
lacking or confusing. First of all tell us how many battery switches do you have? Is it a single switch for both batteries or does each battery have a separate switch? Second for clarity lets refer to the batteries as A (new battery) or B (old battery) then to the switch positions as #1, #2, Off. From what I gather from your explanation if you only have a single switch, that switch is bad. If you have two dedicated switches then you may have a loose or corroded connection or bad cable from switch A to battery A or from battery A to ground bus. The fact that the engine starts on battery B tells me your switch/solenoid circuit and starter/ground circuits are sound. Check for sulfated cables or corroded or loose connections. Disconnecting one battery positive lead at a time and running the switch/s through its paces may help pinpoint the problem.
lacking or confusing. First of all tell us how many battery switches do you have? Is it a single switch for both batteries or does each battery have a separate switch? Second for clarity lets refer to the batteries as A (new battery) or B (old battery) then to the switch positions as #1, #2, Off. From what I gather from your explanation if you only have a single switch, that switch is bad. If you have two dedicated switches then you may have a loose or corroded connection or bad cable from switch A to battery A or from battery A to ground bus. The fact that the engine starts on battery B tells me your switch/solenoid circuit and starter/ground circuits are sound. Check for sulfated cables or corroded or loose connections. Disconnecting one battery positive lead at a time and running the switch/s through its paces may help pinpoint the problem.
We seem to find your explanation of the problem
lacking or confusing. First of all tell us how many battery switches do you have? Is it a single switch for both batteries or does each battery have a separate switch? Second for clarity lets refer to the batteries as A (new battery) or B (old battery) then to the switch positions as #1, #2, Off. From what I gather from your explanation if you only have a single switch, that switch is bad. If you have two dedicated switches then you may have a loose or corroded connection or bad cable from switch A to battery A or from battery A to ground bus. The fact that the engine starts on battery B tells me your switch/solenoid circuit and starter/ground circuits are sound. Check for sulfated cables or corroded or loose connections. Disconnecting one battery positive lead at a time and running the switch/s through its paces may help pinpoint the problem.
lacking or confusing. First of all tell us how many battery switches do you have? Is it a single switch for both batteries or does each battery have a separate switch? Second for clarity lets refer to the batteries as A (new battery) or B (old battery) then to the switch positions as #1, #2, Off. From what I gather from your explanation if you only have a single switch, that switch is bad. If you have two dedicated switches then you may have a loose or corroded connection or bad cable from switch A to battery A or from battery A to ground bus. The fact that the engine starts on battery B tells me your switch/solenoid circuit and starter/ground circuits are sound. Check for sulfated cables or corroded or loose connections. Disconnecting one battery positive lead at a time and running the switch/s through its paces may help pinpoint the problem.
Battery Connections
In many boats the starter is directly connected to one of the batteries and all the battery switch controls is the house functions and engine control voltages to the switch panel. So that might explalin why the designated bat #2 might start hte engine. As to why bat one doesn't charge how is the charger connected. Since both batteries have apparently been connected and reconnected corrosion at the bat. end would have been helped so its likely at the load end of the cables.
In many boats the starter is directly connected to one of the batteries and all the battery switch controls is the house functions and engine control voltages to the switch panel. So that might explalin why the designated bat #2 might start hte engine. As to why bat one doesn't charge how is the charger connected. Since both batteries have apparently been connected and reconnected corrosion at the bat. end would have been helped so its likely at the load end of the cables.
Pull all connections
Pull apart each and every connection, don't just look at them or tighten. Salt water and humidity can cause corrosion inside a seemingly tight connector. Clean well, and don't forget to make sure the block is clean where connections are made. Also check for bad terminals at the cable ends. I would pay particular attention to everything between the battery and the battery switch. Take an ohm meter and check the resistance. The ohm meter may not show up anything, but if a connection is really bad it will read some resistance.
Pull apart each and every connection, don't just look at them or tighten. Salt water and humidity can cause corrosion inside a seemingly tight connector. Clean well, and don't forget to make sure the block is clean where connections are made. Also check for bad terminals at the cable ends. I would pay particular attention to everything between the battery and the battery switch. Take an ohm meter and check the resistance. The ohm meter may not show up anything, but if a connection is really bad it will read some resistance.
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