I have a new battery charger to install. The boat has #4 wire, with eye connectors and bolted into place on the old charger. The new charger has slots with a screw to tighten down on the wire. Problem: Boat has #4 wire, the new charger only accepts #6 or #8. What is the safest way to connect the #4 wire to the new charger? What are my options? Thanks
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Get a short length of #6 wire and
connect it to the charger. Install butt connectors between that #6 wire and your #4 wire. Either use heat shrink tubing or liquid electric to cover the ends of the butt splice. The short length of the #6 wires should not affect the flow of current.
connect it to the charger. Install butt connectors between that #6 wire and your #4 wire. Either use heat shrink tubing or liquid electric to cover the ends of the butt splice. The short length of the #6 wires should not affect the flow of current.
There's an easier way
Why not just clip a few wires off the #4 wire to get it to fit into the #6 slot? That will eleminate a couple of connections that could cause problems down the road.
Why not just clip a few wires off the #4 wire to get it to fit into the #6 slot? That will eleminate a couple of connections that could cause problems down the road.
buy 6 ga. wire
It may be time to replace the 4 ga. wire, if its old. I'd much prefer to install new 6 ga. than trust old 4 ga. Or, if you do need the 4 ga. size, I'd go with Mickey's suggestion. By the way, I just finished installing my new truecharge+ 20A today. I used 10 and 12 ga. since I had a very short run. I put aside the old charger wiring for emergency use only, since it looked old.
It may be time to replace the 4 ga. wire, if its old. I'd much prefer to install new 6 ga. than trust old 4 ga. Or, if you do need the 4 ga. size, I'd go with Mickey's suggestion. By the way, I just finished installing my new truecharge+ 20A today. I used 10 and 12 ga. since I had a very short run. I put aside the old charger wiring for emergency use only, since it looked old.
Battery Charger Wiring
Thanks. The boat is only seven years old. I am leaning toward Mickey's suggestion. I wanted the TrueCharge 20+ but I may also just take it back and get one that bolts in like the one I have now. I've sent off a note to the manufacturer, we'll see what they have to say.
Thanks. The boat is only seven years old. I am leaning toward Mickey's suggestion. I wanted the TrueCharge 20+ but I may also just take it back and get one that bolts in like the one I have now. I've sent off a note to the manufacturer, we'll see what they have to say.
TrueCharge 20
Stu, Yes, I bought the TrueCharge 20, but if I can't hook it up safely, I'd settle for safe than sorry. I currently have the Promarine Flyback 20-3, the one that was frying my new batteries. I do appreciate your input as always.
Stu, Yes, I bought the TrueCharge 20, but if I can't hook it up safely, I'd settle for safe than sorry. I currently have the Promarine Flyback 20-3, the one that was frying my new batteries. I do appreciate your input as always.
Paul, what ? is there about hooking it up safely?
You worte: "...but I may also just take it back and get one that bolts in like the one I have now. I've sent off a note to the manufacturer, we'll see what they have to say." Bolts on? Does this mean the mounting of the unit , or the wiring? What do you expect the manufacturer to say? I have to admit that I do not understand. The True Charge is a very good unit; my experience leads me to believe it is far superior to the Flyback, since many of my colleagues have expressed disappointment with that brand and some have returned them. If the problem is moutning the new unit, drill some holes and get on with it. If the problem is the wiring, do what either Replies #2, 3 and 4 have suggested. Please help me understand if there's more to this that that.
You worte: "...but I may also just take it back and get one that bolts in like the one I have now. I've sent off a note to the manufacturer, we'll see what they have to say." Bolts on? Does this mean the mounting of the unit , or the wiring? What do you expect the manufacturer to say? I have to admit that I do not understand. The True Charge is a very good unit; my experience leads me to believe it is far superior to the Flyback, since many of my colleagues have expressed disappointment with that brand and some have returned them. If the problem is moutning the new unit, drill some holes and get on with it. If the problem is the wiring, do what either Replies #2, 3 and 4 have suggested. Please help me understand if there's more to this that that.
Battery Charger Wiring
Hi Stu, The current charger has eye connectors on the end of the wire that are installed on posts that have threads and nuts that tighten down onto the eye connectors that hold the wire securely, so wire size isn't an issue. I think what you are saying is that I am being overly cautious. What I expect the manufacturer to say is that it is safe to cut back a few wires to make it fit into their little holes. Once again, I do appreciate your input. Thanks
Hi Stu, The current charger has eye connectors on the end of the wire that are installed on posts that have threads and nuts that tighten down onto the eye connectors that hold the wire securely, so wire size isn't an issue. I think what you are saying is that I am being overly cautious. What I expect the manufacturer to say is that it is safe to cut back a few wires to make it fit into their little holes. Once again, I do appreciate your input. Thanks
Good luck, Paul
I know "I'm a guy," and shouldn't be reading the instructions, but, what do they say? Yes, it should be just fine, it's just a different kind of wire connector setup.
I know "I'm a guy," and shouldn't be reading the instructions, but, what do they say? Yes, it should be just fine, it's just a different kind of wire connector setup.
Battery Charger Wiring - Final Answer
Stu, Sorry it took me so long to get back to you (been out sailing) and the rest. I did read the instructions. Says to use #6 or #8 wire, depending on run. My whole concern here is not the size of the wire, or how it is connected. My concern is that when the #4 gets clipped off and the charger is running that it will over heat and cause a fire where the wire goes from clipped to #4. So, at least one rep from the manufacturer responed today and agreed that it could be done that way. So thanks for your patience, I'm new at 12 volts and learning. This is a big step for me. Helps to have input.
Stu, Sorry it took me so long to get back to you (been out sailing) and the rest. I did read the instructions. Says to use #6 or #8 wire, depending on run. My whole concern here is not the size of the wire, or how it is connected. My concern is that when the #4 gets clipped off and the charger is running that it will over heat and cause a fire where the wire goes from clipped to #4. So, at least one rep from the manufacturer responed today and agreed that it could be done that way. So thanks for your patience, I'm new at 12 volts and learning. This is a big step for me. Helps to have input.
Wire Sizes
At 12V, #6 AWG Copper wire is good for up to 900 Amp/Feet. Amp/Feet = round-trip cable Length (Pos + Neg) x Amps ie: 900 A/Ft = 45 Feet x 20 Amp 900A/Ft = 22.5 Feet x 40 Amp At 12V, #4 AWG Cu. wire is good up to 1,250 Amp/Feet For a detailed explanation, Goto: cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=372 “Ohm’s Law & You”: http://cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=372 http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1316 and Wire Size Chart pages 1 & 2: http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1321 http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1322 and 3% Drop Table: http://cruisersforum.com/photopost//showphoto.php?photo=1850
At 12V, #6 AWG Copper wire is good for up to 900 Amp/Feet. Amp/Feet = round-trip cable Length (Pos + Neg) x Amps ie: 900 A/Ft = 45 Feet x 20 Amp 900A/Ft = 22.5 Feet x 40 Amp At 12V, #4 AWG Cu. wire is good up to 1,250 Amp/Feet For a detailed explanation, Goto: cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=372 “Ohm’s Law & You”: http://cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=372 http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1316 and Wire Size Chart pages 1 & 2: http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1321 http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=1322 and 3% Drop Table: http://cruisersforum.com/photopost//showphoto.php?photo=1850
Gord, So what your are saying is
#4 wire is bigger than #6 and since the charger only needs #6 you should be OK using #4 cut down to #6 right at the charger. This assumes the #4 was correctly installed in the first place and you don't have a really long run to the batteries however. I saw an instillation once where there was only about 2 ft between the charger and the batteries but the guy used the 20 ft of wire supplied with the charger. He coiled in the battery box. Still worked but really sometimes you wonder what they where thinking.
#4 wire is bigger than #6 and since the charger only needs #6 you should be OK using #4 cut down to #6 right at the charger. This assumes the #4 was correctly installed in the first place and you don't have a really long run to the batteries however. I saw an instillation once where there was only about 2 ft between the charger and the batteries but the guy used the 20 ft of wire supplied with the charger. He coiled in the battery box. Still worked but really sometimes you wonder what they where thinking.
american wire gauge (AWG)
Yes, wire size (diameter, or more correctly circular mils) increases as numerals decline (gauge) (#4 bigger than #6 AWG). #6 AWG is acceptable for 20 Amps up to a total cable length (Pos + Neg) of 45 Feet. A #4 AWG cable, trimmed to (about #6) ONLY at the charger lugs, will perform BETTER than a continuous run of #6. As you indicate, this assumes “correct” installation practice (clean, tight, etc) in the first place. The Foot/Amp tables, I previously referenced, include allowances (up-sizing) for 3% maximum voltage drop. HTH, Gord
Yes, wire size (diameter, or more correctly circular mils) increases as numerals decline (gauge) (#4 bigger than #6 AWG). #6 AWG is acceptable for 20 Amps up to a total cable length (Pos + Neg) of 45 Feet. A #4 AWG cable, trimmed to (about #6) ONLY at the charger lugs, will perform BETTER than a continuous run of #6. As you indicate, this assumes “correct” installation practice (clean, tight, etc) in the first place. The Foot/Amp tables, I previously referenced, include allowances (up-sizing) for 3% maximum voltage drop. HTH, Gord
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