Hi Kupe, do you have an electric windlass? That wire seems awfully large for a data monitor. Our electric windlass is wired directly to one of our house bank batteries.
Battery advice for new-to-us Hunter 36...and why did these huge Northstar AGMs die so soon?
- Thread starter Kupe
- Start date
I'll try to trace that this weekend. Charger/Inverter/Monitor is the factory Xantrex Freedom 20. A bit dated, but I think it will get along great with a bank of GCs!
Thanks Terry. Yes on the electric windlass. I'll try to trace that, however that wire doesn't look like the kind of high-amperage gauge I'd expect for a windlass. But a great guess and I'll definitely look there!
It could be a thermister to supply battery temp to the charger you don't overheat the batteries
Our windlass cables are 2/0... But what's that small black wire connecting pos on one battery to neg on the other?
Dave I think you are referring to the "nanopulser" wires leading to that silver box that we talked about earlier. Still trying to decipher that LOL!
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Yep, it's a ribbon cable so I agree with the others saying it could be a battery monitor of some sort.
If it's monitoring temp it's on the wrong terminal, should be on the negative terminal so it doesn't have to be fused.
Three devices come to mind that may monitor battery temp and or direct battery voltage. An alternator external regulator, a battery charger and a standalone battery monitor. Probably not a standalone battery monitor because there is no shunt on the negative cables, at least that can be seen.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 21,195
It is an electronic pulse devise that claims to reverse the effects of Sulfation on the lead plates.
It is made by Pulse Genetech a Japanese company.
HOW DOES BATTERY SULFATION OCCUR
Sulfation occurs when a battery is deprived of a full charge; it builds up and remains on battery plates.
What is a Sulfated Battery and How to Prevent It
Discover the causes and prevention methods for sulfation, a battery condition that can be lethal to its lifespan.
www.crownbattery.com
The article from Crown battery describes sulfation which is what kills batteries. Of note and related to the question about the pulsation device the article says:
For some things, folks, there just aren't any shortcuts and magic cures. He bought a very high quality battery designed for a specific purpose and used it for another purpose in an electrical system that was design for an entirely different battery bank. And our OP gets left holding the bag. He gets to pay for this ill-informed boat owner's errors.
Remember the DIY Golden Rule: Do not do unto future boat owners what prior boat owners did to you.
The prior owner bought 2 expensive batteries designed for the telecommunications industry to provide back up power in the case of a power outage. He an undersized battery charger that could not provide sufficient current to break down the sulfating. His alternator was also incapable of providing sufficient current to break down the sulfates. He bought and installed a device of dubious value to save the batteries. The short story is he wasted a lot of money because he either didn't do his homework or fell for some grossly inaccurate sales pitch.
For some things, folks, there just aren't any shortcuts and magic cures. He bought a very high quality battery designed for a specific purpose and used it for another purpose in an electrical system that was design for an entirely different battery bank. And our OP gets left holding the bag. He gets to pay for this ill-informed boat owner's errors.
Remember the DIY Golden Rule: Do not do unto future boat owners what prior boat owners did to you.
Hey gang-
Just wanted to thank all of you for great guidance, insights, and suggestions. The dead AGMs are gone and replaced with 4X Trojan power! Hell they're a thing of beauty! Old school like me! I hired some young strong backs to do the lifting and left the wiring to me. Thanks again to all of you!
Just wanted to thank all of you for great guidance, insights, and suggestions. The dead AGMs are gone and replaced with 4X Trojan power! Hell they're a thing of beauty! Old school like me! I hired some young strong backs to do the lifting and left the wiring to me. Thanks again to all of you!
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You'll be happier with the Trojans. A couple of comments about the wiring. The jumpers between the batteries should all be the same size, both length and cable gauge. The black cables are very undersized when compared to the larger cables leading away from the battery bank. It is good to have the fuses as close to the batteries as possible. What sized fuses are they? They should be small enough to protect the jumpers which look to be about 4ga which should be fused at 160a. The other cables look to be about 2/0 which can carry about twice as much current (330a). If the main fuses are sized to protect the larger cables at ~300 a, then the jumpers will be running at twice their rated capacity, which presents a significant fire hazard.
Also, how will you restrain the batteries? ABYC calls for no more than 1" of movement in any direction, including up. Since the batteries are FLA, the box also needs a cover.
Also, how will you restrain the batteries? ABYC calls for no more than 1" of movement in any direction, including up. Since the batteries are FLA, the box also needs a cover.
Thanks again Dave! Yes that was a work-in-progress photo. The batteries are since restrained with lumber on all sides so no movement in any direction, and there is a strap down cover. And good eyes on the jumpers- the store had only the 4AWG but I have 2AWG on the way!
As said, the nanopulser is supposed to break down sulfation - we tried one and didn't notice any difference; but Escape has plenty of charging capacity and solar so I don't think her house bank - 4 group 27 AGMs - was ever discharged below 70%
The larger cables look like 2/0, check the label on the cables. 2 ga is smaller than 2/0 sometimes listed as 00. 2 ga is only rated for 210 amps, 2/0 is rated for 330 amps. This will be OK if the battery fuse is only a 200a fuse. However, a 200a the fuse might blow if you start off the house battery.
You need to research the specific battery you have to know the amp/hr rating (20hrs) and the charging requirements. I have a Lifeline 8d AGM with a Freedom 20 charger. The smaller Freedom 10 charger at 40 amps was within spec for my battery. What I didn’t read is your alternator. It needs to be externally regulated. This won’t damage your battery but it will dry your alternator is not . I had traditional flooded batteries and was getting ready to switch to golcart batteries. I had the opportunity to buy thr Lifeline used which forced me to address my alternator . I got the battery for free and spent the funds on a alternator and external reg and Balmar battery meter/ shunt. I will never go back to flooded batteries. This thing is amazing
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 21,195
Mike.
An AGM battery is a type of lead-acid battery that uses a fiberglass mat to hold the electrolyte in place. The electrolyte, which is a mixture of sulfuric acid and water, is absorbed into the fiberglass mat, which is made of a very porous material.
This design allows the AGM battery to be sealed and maintenance-free, as the electrolyte is contained within the fiberglass mat and cannot leak or spill.
I use the adage "tight is tight, loose again is too tight". But you could also just use German torque and make them gutentight.
All jokes aside, I use a small torque wrench and make it the correct torque. I'm you-know-what retentive about torque specs, probably comes from auto racing and aircraft background.
I would add add MRBF to each positive battery connection. Cheap and a nice little bit of insurance.
The “Flooded” lead acid term, at least in my head, is not associated with AGM. Same chemistry but different structure and associated specifications.