We recently purchased a '96 Hunter 336 whose batteries had been neglected for many months. There are 3 batteries that are on a selector switch (1,2,all,off). Should I wire a separate starting battery of just be diligent about using the switch to conserve one battery for starting? Also, what size and rating batteries should I buy for weekend cruising with 1-2 nights out? I am willing to spend more for peace of mind. Your comments? Thanks!!!
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Jay Hill
This should be fun!
Hey Pete, great question. I'm sure we will get into the "calculate the amphour requirements of your vessel" conversation which is always fun. In general terms, though, I bet if you followed the wiring carefully, you will find that one of the batteries is already wired slightly different than the other two. For example, one of the batteries is hooked to Switch Positions "1" and "All" while the other two are connected to Switch Positions "2", AND "All". This allows you to turn to bank two for cruising and reserve the motor starting battery. The beauty is that it allows you to easily switch back to the motor battery if the other two discharge, the motor won't start, and you need the VHF. If you hook up the motor starting battery completely seperate from the switch, you would have to run a wire from the VHF to the motor battery to get it to work. Unless, of course, you have a hand held. To see if your boat is connected this way (standard from the Hunter factory if I'm not mistaken), turn the battery switch to position "1" and try to crank the motor. Don't start it, just make sure it turns over. Now go to position "2" and try again. If the motor does not turn over in position "2" but does in the "1" (and obviously "All") then you are already hooked up and good to go. When you go cruising, just turn the switch to position "2" for house power, then back to "All" or "1" for motor starting. If this test shows that the motor will start in any switch position, you have some serious wire tracing to do. It is possible (however unlikely) that two batteries are connected for motor starting and all three are used for house power. Personnally, I like to switch to position "2" then charge when necessary. NOTE: Your motor battery may be connected to "2" instead of "1" like mine is. Either way, you get the point.
Hey Pete, great question. I'm sure we will get into the "calculate the amphour requirements of your vessel" conversation which is always fun. In general terms, though, I bet if you followed the wiring carefully, you will find that one of the batteries is already wired slightly different than the other two. For example, one of the batteries is hooked to Switch Positions "1" and "All" while the other two are connected to Switch Positions "2", AND "All". This allows you to turn to bank two for cruising and reserve the motor starting battery. The beauty is that it allows you to easily switch back to the motor battery if the other two discharge, the motor won't start, and you need the VHF. If you hook up the motor starting battery completely seperate from the switch, you would have to run a wire from the VHF to the motor battery to get it to work. Unless, of course, you have a hand held. To see if your boat is connected this way (standard from the Hunter factory if I'm not mistaken), turn the battery switch to position "1" and try to crank the motor. Don't start it, just make sure it turns over. Now go to position "2" and try again. If the motor does not turn over in position "2" but does in the "1" (and obviously "All") then you are already hooked up and good to go. When you go cruising, just turn the switch to position "2" for house power, then back to "All" or "1" for motor starting. If this test shows that the motor will start in any switch position, you have some serious wire tracing to do. It is possible (however unlikely) that two batteries are connected for motor starting and all three are used for house power. Personnally, I like to switch to position "2" then charge when necessary. NOTE: Your motor battery may be connected to "2" instead of "1" like mine is. Either way, you get the point.
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Wayne Estabrooks
Batteries in my 340
My Hunter is a 340, nearly identical to the 336. I can start the engine on either position 1 or 2. This is the way it came wired from the factory. You should have a diagram that came with your boat. It depends on what kind of cruising you do as to what you do for battery installation. I installed 2 Group 27 105 A/Hr batteries in position 1 in parallel which I consider my house battery. The battery in position 2 is one of the original batteries which is a cranking marine battery. This is enough battery for a couple of nights of anchoring out. The diesel will usually start on the house battery after 2 nights at anchor if I forget to switch to the cranking battery. If you do more you might augment with solar or wind generator but I find I start the engine to make hot water or motor out of the anchorage etc and can easily recharge the batteries. There is lots of information and discussion in the archives on Golf Cart batteries, lerger alternators etc.. If your batteries are original and 4 or more years old or especially if they have been neglected you should probably replace them especially if they were left in a discharged state.
My Hunter is a 340, nearly identical to the 336. I can start the engine on either position 1 or 2. This is the way it came wired from the factory. You should have a diagram that came with your boat. It depends on what kind of cruising you do as to what you do for battery installation. I installed 2 Group 27 105 A/Hr batteries in position 1 in parallel which I consider my house battery. The battery in position 2 is one of the original batteries which is a cranking marine battery. This is enough battery for a couple of nights of anchoring out. The diesel will usually start on the house battery after 2 nights at anchor if I forget to switch to the cranking battery. If you do more you might augment with solar or wind generator but I find I start the engine to make hot water or motor out of the anchorage etc and can easily recharge the batteries. There is lots of information and discussion in the archives on Golf Cart batteries, lerger alternators etc.. If your batteries are original and 4 or more years old or especially if they have been neglected you should probably replace them especially if they were left in a discharged state.
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Paul Akers
Measure of insurance
As a measure of insurance, I added a battery isolator between the batteries. This will prevent the stronger bank from trickling into the weaker bank when the switch is in the "ALL" position. I will usually put the switch in the "ALL" position when running so that the batteries will charge. When the stronger bank is fully charged, then all the juice will automatically be directed to the other bank.
As a measure of insurance, I added a battery isolator between the batteries. This will prevent the stronger bank from trickling into the weaker bank when the switch is in the "ALL" position. I will usually put the switch in the "ALL" position when running so that the batteries will charge. When the stronger bank is fully charged, then all the juice will automatically be directed to the other bank.
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Ed Schenck
Or use Combiner
We use a 'battery combiner'. We run the engine on position #1, engine battery only. But with the combiner the other two batteries will charge once the engine battery is up to level. This is automatic, no switch changing. Just remember to switch to #2(house) anytime engine is off.
We use a 'battery combiner'. We run the engine on position #1, engine battery only. But with the combiner the other two batteries will charge once the engine battery is up to level. This is automatic, no switch changing. Just remember to switch to #2(house) anytime engine is off.
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Bryan
Caution in switching
Be cautious about switching battery banks while the engine is running. Unless you have a "field disconnect" type battery switch (should say something on the switch) you can blow your alternator if the switch is turned to off while the engine is running. My rule is never switch the switch unless the engine is off. P.S. testing your battery system is a lot easier if you have a multimeter.
Be cautious about switching battery banks while the engine is running. Unless you have a "field disconnect" type battery switch (should say something on the switch) you can blow your alternator if the switch is turned to off while the engine is running. My rule is never switch the switch unless the engine is off. P.S. testing your battery system is a lot easier if you have a multimeter.
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