Batteries in the H37C bilge.

[Ed Schenck]

Finally! Today I winched those 100# 6-volt batteries into the cockpit and then got them into the bilge. And the bilge covers fit without removing those heavy stringers. Still need the tie downs and the cover for the fuse(left).

Then I installed the new #6 cable from the battery switch to the panel. Now that was fun! Cable runs under the cockpit, across the fuel tank, through that cabinet which happens to have my A/C in the way, and up to the panel. That panel and those bus bars were not made for #6 wire.

You can see that I installed a battery fuse directly onto the back of the battery switch. What is missing is the cable to the starter.

I did test the install including the Link 2000 with the Heart inverter/charger. I left it plugged to 15 amp shorepower for just a short time because it was programmed for the old AGMs. I forgot to take the book.

So there you go, all 1/0 cable tied to 225aH worth of 6v wet-cells. And a problem I never had with AGMs and Gels? Little holes suddenly appearing in my good Levis.

 

[Jim Legere]

Everything (except the Levis) is lookin' good! When do you splash Ed?

 

[Ed Schenck]

No splash date Jim. Bottom to paint and mast yet to rig. I still have not seen the new wire and furler that I had shipped to the marina. Someone remembers seeing some boxes with my name on it so I am hopeful.

 

[Bill1565]

Lookin good Ed.

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

Battery box drains

Please, oh please, Ed, be sure you have drain holes in those battery boxes! --and that they have plugs to keep bilge water out while allowing you to get leaks' water in.

I am currently working on C44 hull #0-- the original wooden plug we built in 1973-1975 (that was supposed to have been my dad's own boat but why it wasn't is a long story). The engineer who bought it (as scrap-- part of the long story) and finished it outfitted it with a Rube Goldberg maze of wiring, plumbing and hydraulic lines, much of which I am now tasked with removing. The heavy 8D main battery's box was flooded full of water at the start of the winter-- which meant it was on towards becoming slush-- and we could not figure out how to drain it out. Meanwhile the compartmented bilge (without adequate limber holes) was full of water in odd places. All that plumbing and the guy didn't foresee a way to dry out the bilge-- and this on an old wooden boat!

I put my batteries under the bunks and do not have drain holes in those boxes (yet) only because I didn't want them draining into the under-bunk lockers (where the water tanks are). But I'll have to have something, and though that something will be plugged most of the time, you'd better believe I'll be able to pull the plug.

The cardinal rule about boats is that everything will get wet. That's unavoidable. What happens next is the problem that needs to be solved.

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

BTW, Ed-- forget your jeans! --but how's your back after humping those batteries into the boat and lowering them down into the floor?

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

I like that Blue Sea fuse holder that goes directly on the terminal connection and have it too. Wonderful idea that solves both the ABYC requirement (less than 7 inches) and that of convenience and space efficiency.

I do not have a fuse on the battery switch itself, relying on those on the batteries and the individual ones on the circuits (all have their own). Aside from ABYC recommendations (which is all they are), can someone explain why this extra fuse or breaker is necessary?

 

[Ed Schenck]

You know what they say JC, "lift with your legs". But I can tell you, at 70 I am about to start spending some money for help. I just can't face 74' x 4' of fiberglass cleaning and waxing.

Maybe Maine Sail can explain why the second battery fuse, the one on the switch. I was married too many years, just do what I am told.

There are no battery boxes on my boat. Are you suggesting that bilge water can somehow damage the DuraCell case? Yesterday I finished the wiring and secured those batteries. An H37C will always have an inch or more of water in the bilge. What is the risk?

 

[SailH37]

More food for thought

I too have heard and agree about the idea of not putting the batteries low, so that if water comes in, they don't short out in the salt water, and you can continue to run bilge pumps and start motors. The other thing I toyed with is what kind of batteries to get. I've heard folks go crazy over golf cart batteries, 6 volt battery configurations, gel, etc., and I thought about it from this perspective, when they go out and have to be replaced, where do I hope to be and what's going to be available. So, with my hopes to be in remote places, I went with the large 12v car battery, 4 of them. I expanded a ledge in the aft lazzerette locker by fiberglassing down a shelf, then I built a box around it. I was only able to gain enough space after I cut out the old ice box shell. I cut it out and put in an all-in-one adler-barbour (it's Wacco now I think) from the locker so I didn't have to take out any cabinetry. I fiberglasses in a shelf for it to sit on, then slid it in and bolted up the compressor. Inside the battery box, I also bolted tie-down frames to the inside, so everything should stay in place if inverted, and there's space around them to keep them cool. They're up close to the waterline, so they're at least a couple of feet off of the keel. Here's some pics.
Keith.

 

[Ed Schenck]

That might be a first here Keith. I don't remember another owner removing the icebox from the starboard locker. Personally I like the large box interior. More than that I am too lazy to undertake such a major cutting. It sure does free up a lot of locker space though.

Your batteries are more or less where mine used to be. I had two on the hull under the icebox and two more on the shelf behind the box. I got a lot of space back by moving the house bank to the bilge. Our A/B refrigeration units are in the same place but mine sits on the box. I can't see how yours is mounted.

As for water shorting out the house bank I am in serious trouble if the water gets that high. Fortunately the isolated start battery is in the original location for starting the Yanmar and running the radio and bilge pump.

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

There are no battery boxes on my boat. Are you suggesting that bilge water can somehow damage the DuraCell case? Yesterday I finished the wiring and secured those batteries. An H37C will always have an inch or more of water in the bilge. What is the risk?

...
The risk is ice, which will crack anything, especially the case of a battery. There is also the risk of water (somehow) getting over the top of it. This can happen really easily if there is a spill above the battery and the boxes have no drains. My batteries are under the bunks as are the water tanks, so in any water-filling operation this is a risk. I have (but have not installed) gaskets for the battery lids, but being careful is most of the battle won.

Batteries in the bilge are especially liable to water cascading in the companionway during bad weather or any dripping crew members or foulies located above them. I am working on C44 hull #0 (the original plug) right now and there is no cover on one battery, inside the under-bunk locker. In any good violent shift of weather some metal wrench could be cast onto the top of the battery terminals and-- yikes.

Do I understand, then, that your batteries are just sitting or suspended in the bilge?

 

[Ed Schenck]

Yes JC, just sitting on a board in the bilge. There is a picture in post #1. Since that picture I have installed the tiedowns and the heavy rubber covers over the postitive posts. The only way water could touch those terminals is for the bilge to fill to the top. Battery boxes would not solve anything if that happened. The start battery as mentioned is in the original location, starboard lazarette, and is a maintenance free. But if I have that much water coming in it will be dead in short order running the big Rule.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Batteries in the bilge. .again.

Finally finished the electrical. . . . almost. When I connected that big 1/0 wire from the battery switch to the starter I forgot something important. The harness wire to the engine panel was just dangling. After connecting that and finishing off the alternator with a new belt and tension bar it was time to fire her up. Turned the key and got the familiar buzz. Turned it farther to start and POP goes the 80 amp fuse, the one I added to the back of the battery switch. The cable ends are 1/4" for the fuse bracket and, naturally, too small for the switch post. I am removing that fuse bracket, drilling out the cable ends, and going directly onto the switch. Just like it was for the previous thirty-three years. The 250 amp fuse next to the battery is just going to have to suffice.

 

[Jim Legere]

Re: Batteries in the bilge. .again.

Ed, I thought the 80 A fuse on the back of the battery switch was for the wire going to your DC breaker panel? The original Yanmar wiring harness was fed from the starter motor B+ terminal and had its own fuse...(which sometimes caused problems too!). I know you have a new Yanmar and presumably also the harness. Is the Yanmar wiring not same way as the old QM?

 

[Ed Schenck]

You are right Jim, I wired it wrong. In the picture you see the panel wire coming off of the fuse. Then I connected the 1/0 cable on top of that so both circuits were off of the fuse. The reason being that both cables had lugs sized for the fuse and too small for the switch post. So I guess I will just drill out the start cable and mount it directly to the switch post. Now to go order a couple of fuses.

 

[rhythmsurfer]

Keith I am planning on doing the same with my H36. The shelf or the batteries needs to be larger to accomodate more batteries. I have two gels and so far so good but I haven't spent the night out on the boat yet. I have battery boxes with the webbing that keeps them "secure" but I don't like the boxes/webbing. Very cheap design.

 

[SailH37]

quick followup

Hey guys, yea, it seemed like a lot of work, and it was, but it's been worth it. I just got back from an 11hr beat in 14knt winds up to St.Augustine Fl, with a two day stay and motored back up the ICW, and everything worked great. It felt great to slap the hull against some waves. But, here's a pic of how I mounted to a/c compressor, I glassed in a couple of tabs, and bolted it on. The refer kept our ice frozen and everything chilled perfectly, all weekend. Since it only pulls 300 watts, I wired it to the 'load divert' side of a morningStar charge controller feed by a couple of 65watt Kyocera solar panels. Gotta watch those consecutive cloudy days. To finish off the locker, I fixed a hammock for the PFDs so they're quickly available, and hung line-hangers to store lines. The down side is if I want to drink beer while sailing with a couple of buds or fish for a big fish, ya gotta have a cooler. ( side note, I think I might have messed up the uploading of the photos, opps.)

 

[SailH37]

Oops pics.

Yea, hm, didn't see the little 'wait' message..... Oh yea, the little thru hull there is the exit for the A/C water, previous owner put it there, probably need to glass in a little box around it so nothing can wack it off. More weight, yea...
Kb