No, Qapla'! Have to teach you non-Klingon speakers everything.Excellent!
No, Qapla'! Have to teach you non-Klingon speakers everything.Excellent!
5/16-18 on both pos and neg posts - As I said, I may have inadvertently damaged the threads of one post I was using to determine the size using an M8 nut. So it was really my fault for not "paying attention to details". Maybe I should blame Blue Seas for using metric hardware and not SAE hardware. LOLI’d be curious what the actual sizes where.
Very good point. Or maybe a cut form for the correct thread size that can be clamped on the bottom of the bolt and worked its way up. But my rocking CW-CCW back and forth fixed the issue of cross thread. Maybe I was lucky because the post appears to be make of lead? I don't know.A thread file can be very handy in the tool box. Not a replacement for taps and dies, but good for minor dings. Work from the good threads towards the damage.
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Probably copper or bronze plated with nickel. Lead is too soft and easily deformed. That's why using old style clamps on lead posts is a poor idea. The post gets deformed and the connection is poor.Maybe I was lucky because the post appears to be make of lead? I don't know.
Thread files are not so much files as thread reformers. The teeth are not really angled to remove metal, but rather to persuade the threads back into their right place, but they will remove the hopeless bits. You start from the good threads, which guide the file, and work your way towards the bad threads. The right size can handle practically anything on the boat, including metric and pipe. The pitch just needs to be close. Remember, you're not trying to cut threads, only clean them up and straighten them. It has saved my bacon many times....Very good point. Or maybe a cut form for the correct thread size that can be clamped on the bottom of the bolt and worked its way up. But my rocking CW-CCW back and forth fixed the issue of cross thread. Maybe I was lucky because the post appears to be make of lead? I don't know.