I need to replace my battan boards on my hunder 27. It's looks like the last ones were made from plywood. Where can I but teak boards? The entrance way is 32wx36L, so I need to buy planks that are 12" wide or a solid piece of wood to make two or three drop-ins. Can anyone help?
Battan Boards for Companion Way
- Thread starter Mike8082
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Just a thought
The hatchboards on our 79 H30 appear to be made from oak. There are currently 4 hatchboards and I'd rather just have 3 to deal with. Teak is very expensive so we were thinking of using mahagony 5/4 decking. We'd have to cut off the rounded edge and then join the boards to make a blank and then cut into 3 sections. But if you have your heart set on teak then you could look in the yellow pages under Lumber-Retail.
The hatchboards on our 79 H30 appear to be made from oak. There are currently 4 hatchboards and I'd rather just have 3 to deal with. Teak is very expensive so we were thinking of using mahagony 5/4 decking. We'd have to cut off the rounded edge and then join the boards to make a blank and then cut into 3 sections. But if you have your heart set on teak then you could look in the yellow pages under Lumber-Retail.
Plexiglass
I have an older 79' Hunter 30. I have the original teak boards but the previous owner had a one piece plexiglass board made. It works great. I stow it in the lazerette when not in use and it is smoked so lets in a lot of light. I wouldn't go back to the multiple boards. Just one board when I get to the boat and one when I leave. Underway I keep the original in the lazerette incase I want some partial protection.
I have an older 79' Hunter 30. I have the original teak boards but the previous owner had a one piece plexiglass board made. It works great. I stow it in the lazerette when not in use and it is smoked so lets in a lot of light. I wouldn't go back to the multiple boards. Just one board when I get to the boat and one when I leave. Underway I keep the original in the lazerette incase I want some partial protection.
Starboard
I replaced my old, warped teak plywood companionway boards with a two-piece hinged section made of starboard. I cut into the upper section an operable 8" x 10" portlight with a bug screen that gives light and ventilation. I made the entire rig out of "Starboard" available in sheets at any marine supply store. It's a polymer that most common plastic cutting boards are made of. It's pricey, and there are alternate poly - type materials out there in sheet goods available at your local home improvement center. Azek is one for example. The new "starboard" companionway was made with a 1/2" thick material. A 4' x 8' sheet runs arond $80 at a marine store. It's easy to cut with any circular saw and sands OK. No splinters! The best is that it needs no paint! The downside is that it is heavier to handle than the three smaller plywood boards due to the portlight as well as teh added piano hinge. The starboard product is weather-proof, won't rot and is very strong. Fair winds,,,,,,,, Stu
I replaced my old, warped teak plywood companionway boards with a two-piece hinged section made of starboard. I cut into the upper section an operable 8" x 10" portlight with a bug screen that gives light and ventilation. I made the entire rig out of "Starboard" available in sheets at any marine supply store. It's a polymer that most common plastic cutting boards are made of. It's pricey, and there are alternate poly - type materials out there in sheet goods available at your local home improvement center. Azek is one for example. The new "starboard" companionway was made with a 1/2" thick material. A 4' x 8' sheet runs arond $80 at a marine store. It's easy to cut with any circular saw and sands OK. No splinters! The best is that it needs no paint! The downside is that it is heavier to handle than the three smaller plywood boards due to the portlight as well as teh added piano hinge. The starboard product is weather-proof, won't rot and is very strong. Fair winds,,,,,,,, Stu
Solid Oak
The p;ywood boards that came with the boat were really shot so I took 6" X 3/4" OAK from Home Depot and cut them into the very rough shape and layed them on a table. I used the old boards as a pattern and traced the shape on the boards. I made up 2 boards. with 2- 6" planks each. (When I was done I jouned the planks that made up the upper and lower hatch boards with a oak batton strips that I ripped from the waste boards. I glued the boards together and glued and screwed the batton onto the back side of each hatch board. ( I attached the batton boards last) Between the lower and upper board I cut the edges at an angle with the slope facing out so rain would not drip into the cabin. I then cut the boards to the correct shape. Kind of a trapazoid with a curved top. Now a 3/4 " board is not really 3/4" inch thick but it still won't fit into the track on the cabin sides so I used a table saw to trim the outside eduges that have to fit into the track. I cut an angle on each outside edge of the panels. I then used a belt sander to get a nice tapered edge and a rounded top as well as a nice smooth board for finishing. I then d glued and screwed the battons on the back. The battons are to join the 2 planks that make up each board and prevent the solid oak from warping. I glued between the 2 planks on each board but didn't bother bisguets between the boards. The battons really hot the boards together . I stained the oak and used few coats of Cetol to seal the wood. I did this a few years ago and when the boards look dull I have put another coat of Cetol on the outside. Last year I used the belt sander to remove all the exterior finish and re-stained and Cetoled. The look real rich and strong (I keep the old board as spares under the bunk cushions. I added 10" x 30" doors to the fiberglass bench bottom so I can access the storage area without removing th ecushions) If I had to do it over again I' probably make the top board a 1/4" shorter so the sea hood slides forward a little easier. Right now if the bord is not exactly in place the hood won't close and I would probably use a little thicker batton to prevent warping. Mine tend to warp in the winger and flatten out in the summer. Total time in the shop... maybe 3 hours. It's easy with minimal skills and looks really shippy.... I go for the wood since there is already pleanty of plastic on board.... Howard
The p;ywood boards that came with the boat were really shot so I took 6" X 3/4" OAK from Home Depot and cut them into the very rough shape and layed them on a table. I used the old boards as a pattern and traced the shape on the boards. I made up 2 boards. with 2- 6" planks each. (When I was done I jouned the planks that made up the upper and lower hatch boards with a oak batton strips that I ripped from the waste boards. I glued the boards together and glued and screwed the batton onto the back side of each hatch board. ( I attached the batton boards last) Between the lower and upper board I cut the edges at an angle with the slope facing out so rain would not drip into the cabin. I then cut the boards to the correct shape. Kind of a trapazoid with a curved top. Now a 3/4 " board is not really 3/4" inch thick but it still won't fit into the track on the cabin sides so I used a table saw to trim the outside eduges that have to fit into the track. I cut an angle on each outside edge of the panels. I then used a belt sander to get a nice tapered edge and a rounded top as well as a nice smooth board for finishing. I then d glued and screwed the battons on the back. The battons are to join the 2 planks that make up each board and prevent the solid oak from warping. I glued between the 2 planks on each board but didn't bother bisguets between the boards. The battons really hot the boards together . I stained the oak and used few coats of Cetol to seal the wood. I did this a few years ago and when the boards look dull I have put another coat of Cetol on the outside. Last year I used the belt sander to remove all the exterior finish and re-stained and Cetoled. The look real rich and strong (I keep the old board as spares under the bunk cushions. I added 10" x 30" doors to the fiberglass bench bottom so I can access the storage area without removing th ecushions) If I had to do it over again I' probably make the top board a 1/4" shorter so the sea hood slides forward a little easier. Right now if the bord is not exactly in place the hood won't close and I would probably use a little thicker batton to prevent warping. Mine tend to warp in the winger and flatten out in the summer. Total time in the shop... maybe 3 hours. It's easy with minimal skills and looks really shippy.... I go for the wood since there is already pleanty of plastic on board.... Howard
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